DearmanKE

damn that sucks man, where are you sourceing your new bearings?

you will need, gearbox, 4 speed 20 bucks off this site, 5 speed, maybe 100 tailshaft (probably) 20 bucks you pull it flywheel from a manual clutch 80 for brand new standard one or about 30 for a second hand one thats stil ok. new is reccomended pedalbox 50 bucks off here? or less at wreckers or more maybe clutch cable with circlips 20 ish your speedo will be out slightly aswell, unless you change the diff centre or whole diff, not realy enough to worry about tho. and thers probs other stuff i have missed, someone should fill in what i forgot

well the brake pedal feel or effectviveness doesnt change engine or or not. so yeah.. and if the spigot is dry does that mean i have to replace it or just shove some grease in there?

those spanners are great, and prety inexpensive aswell. and yeah you will need to undo wher the soft line joins the solid line first. then to get the calipers off there is 2 bolts

hmmm interesting I'm pretty sure the friction plates side that was prouder i put towards the gearbox because that was the one that said TM side :'( anyway il be pulling the box off sometime in the next few days, if i have the energy will most probly start 2nite, unless i go out and get maggot in which case i probs wont start till monday lol

hmm, yeah checked the booster hoses just now and there all good made sure one way valve was right way and stuff, stil got terrible brakeing power, its like how the pedal goes when the engine is off, goes hard and brakes suck. and yeah its engaging and disengaging, did abit of mucking around, its fine when the car is in gear and the clutch is out, doesnt seam to make noises, or it might make them but they are very quiet and can't be heard over the leaking exhuast. which isnt realy that loud anyway. i did grease up the input shaft with the pink/purple grease the clutch came with, ive got a feeling its something to do with the release bearing/clips, guess the next step is to pull the box out, coz its not gunna fix itself,

hmmm prety sure clutch is on the right way because i remember being like which way does it go then finding written on it TM side(transmission). and as for the booster, its the correct hose and the valve is the right way round, but id ont get it how it worked bfor n now it doesnt, anyway, guess I'm gunna have to pull the gearbox out, ive got a feeling the release bearing might not be clipped on properly, also whats the proper way to grease the bearing as i may not have done a good enough job, i sorta just rubbed my greasy hands all over it lol.

new engine runs but theres problems :'( see this thread http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=25791 heaps bad noises comeing from the clutch/release bearing area. and the brakes seam really bad, i never remember them being very good, but this is like terrible and the pedal is rock solid, can boosters screw up if the car has just been sitting for a while?

damn id usualy be able to make that but goin to mallala to watch a mate skid his rolla

Yo just got my new 4k, exedy hd clutch and 5 spd, running in the ke70 theres alot of noise comeing form the clutch area, when its adjusted so that the clutch only has be lifted a little bit off the floor the clutch engages it has a loud whirring sound and if i adjust it out so that it has more of a normal position it whirs and whines and screaches, also the more i poush the clutch down thats when the noises seam to get worse. when i did the clutch/gearbox i replaced the release bearing with the new one which came with my clutch. my other problem is the brakes are realy teerible, it seams like the booster is not working, i connected the inlet manifold to the one way plastic valve with a different hose that is slightly longer and slightly more curvy but i don't think that shoudl have an effect, the car had been sitting not moved for approximatly 3 months, possibly even more 3-5. any way i can test my booster? cheers -Alex

dude fix your engine mount,

yo New less shitty 4k is in with 5 speed and exedy HD clutch(ended up getin it for 150 :yes:) not quite running yet, stil have to put radiator back in and connect al the earths n stuff. also i should be picking up a pair of MA61 wheels on the weekend, which will end my shitty front offset. there is some bad news, my sc12 seams to be leaking oil into the rotors, so il need to pul it apart and replace the seals, and possibly the bearings. oh and shoould be gettin a 2 inch ke70 pipe that goes until abit bfor the diff for fairly cheap, so can use that and get a shop to weld on a rear muffler. this comeing week i hope to have it on the road(not sc'd yet, just runnign stock) bfor the rego runs out next friday

hopefuly it turns out that easy ay

delivery celica:P rolla is off the road, but most of the time i drive my bosses car for deliveries, saves me geting in and out of a lowered car lol, daihatsu sirion power. yeah pizza boy pay may be shit, but in a few weeks i start as a motor mechanic apprentice, first year pay FTMFLoooooossse at least it will be a change being doin the whole pizza thing for like a year and a half now :yes:

spotted a matte black ae82 in the driveway of a house i dleivered pizza 2 2nite:D

yeah dw, I'm not gunna get bits unless i absoutly know they are right, also wondering where you are getting the new bearings from? beacuse form what heaps of what ive read, alot of people say you can't get replacement bearings

yeah, sweet where can you get new bearings? and how much are they costing you, know if sc12 ones wil be the same? just incase i screw mine up when i go to do all this crap.

also if anyone has got a mechanic or shop to do it for them, how much did it cost?

has anyone on here dismantled an sc12 and changed the seals behind the bearings any info on this would be appreciated, and would really like to talk to someone who has done it before if there is anyone apparently the only way to get the bearings out to change the seals is by destroying them or heating them as i have just found on another site, but you need to make them hot like 200-400 degrees ish, to melt the glue to push them out anyway, has anyone done before?

25 USD for seal kit, + 50 USD for toyota SC Oil, + postage but to change the seals you need to take the bearings out and blah blah, see my latest rant in my SC thread

mainly with carby, because if you have one TB controlling the air after the SC, (being the butterfly in the carby), and your at like 4000 RPM, then you let off the throttle to change gears or to come into a corner or whatever, the SC is still going to be boosting, and where is all that pressureised air going to go if the butterfly is shut, it can be done with a BOV or ABV, i was going to do this but have decided to go suck through, however i have just discovered the seals in my SC need replaceing which has f@$ked me right off as apparently you can't get the bearings out without destroying them and you can't get new bearings, and to replace the seals you need to take the bearings out... WTF!

my sc12 has oil leaking into the rotors re-seal time :dance:

a ke70

yeah or Filter - Carby - SC - *NO IC* - Inlet - Motor

Here you go man, first 3 are k50 re-assembly, last one is the only diagram i could find with "pins" in it. your killing my dialup lol. its not actualy an orginal toyota manual its a haynes manual, its american so some little things might be different, cheers, -Alex edit it put them in a funny order it goes 3, 4, 2