DearmanKE

anyone :wink:

ok so i have a ke70 with a stock 4k with a 2inch exhuast and single striaght through muffler, first a short backstory about 2 weeks ago a coolant hose blew all over my coil and balast resister and my car was stranded not starting(no spark) on the side of the road, i bypassed the ballast resister and it then had spark and ran fine after i put coolant in it and cleaned out the distributer of coolant obviously. Since then i have had the ballast resister bypassed the whole time. the car has always had a little bit of a rough idle probly due to slightly advanced timeing, because if i back it off it is just the sluggiest thing in the world. but it doesnt ping under load still /END Backstory Last night at about 11pm when i went to get in my car to leave my friends house it would not start (usually it starts right up in the cold early mornings and just needs a minute to warm up before it will idle) i checked for spark from the coil and nothing. so i got my friend to drive me home. anyway today afterwork i went there with a number of tools to have a go at getting it running i sprayed some crc in the dzzy inc ase it was condesnation holding the points shut. that didint work i changed the coil to a second hand one i had lying around, that didint work either(but i left it in) i messed arouynd with the points gap and timing trying to get it to spark, eventually i got an offbeat spark after adjusting the pointsw(i had no feeloer guages so it was a guesstimate). i then adjusted the timing a little and the offbeat spark became a consistant spark, tho it was blue it didnt look strong and could onnly jump a small gap. tryed starting again, still nothing got pissed off and left it for a while thinking it may have been flooded from trying to start so much. came back and jump started it(as the battery was getting abit flat by this time) it started up after 5 or 6 cranks, and was idling very high, around 2,000 rpm, and sounded like a rotor, (like it was missing) i quick drove it home bfor it had any second thoughts it was very down on power at anything under 2grand, ud have to rev it and slip the clutch a little to get it to take off, but seamed to go fine when revving it was popping alot on deceleration, more than usual, and missing alot on idle, tho idling high still now that its home, i checked the dwell angle and it was 61, so i adjusted the points and got it down to 44 (its meant to be 46) it is running only slighhtly better, i messed aroiund with the timing but no timing setting seams to make it idle smoothly, i got the idle down to 1,000 by adjusting the timing, but it was stilo very sluggish downlow like it didint want to pick up engine speed till 2-2.5k it idles very loudly, more so than it used to, which makes me think that it might be overfueling? (no idea why or how) so anyway, can anyone give me some pointers, i stil am not running a ballast resister and still have the non-original coil in place -ALex

Hey everyone i have a shitty ra40 celica with an 18ru engine 2 litre carby thing anyway i can start it and drive it for a while and then when i turn it off i wont be able to start it again, it will not have spark from the coil for about half an hour and then i can start it. keeping in mind the timing chain is on its way out and ive never checked the timing/points probs something i should do anyway any advice?

no salisbury is about half the diffs in the whole world its just a style of diff

spot that one like everyday on way to work, if ur on here, i drive that white ke70 on ma's, n the brown celica that does keybangers lol

heaps of crc, the biggest bar plus spare exhuast u can find, and someone to push down on the bar so the socket doesnts lip off the bolt. if the bolt is rounded try useing the socket a size down and hit it on with a hammer then use said method

be more specific with what your asking i know you said corollas jst encase someone dodddnt no what corolla? what centre do you want to put into what houseing?

take the clear piss coloured palstic face off your 70 dash n ul love it :y: looks so much better oldr dashes woudlnt suit the modern square style of the 70 haha

http://www.billzilla.org/4agstock2.htm

i was trying to find a picture of this rim before i had mul fix it, but i don't think i ever took one, the beating that cracked this rim also bent my panhard rod at a 45 degree angle, you can see in the first picture where mulo has welded it was cracked completly down taht line and seperated away from the rest of the wheel almost, richard does a good job n defs the cheapest u will find, good quality of work n good bloke :P

i didint know they had drain taps lol i have a thermostat u can have its in my kitchen tday my dad was like wtf is this lol

yeah id rather not do the dodgey fix and make the fuseable link my wireing. we're doing electrical at trade school this week, so should be able to sus it out, ill check out my globes tho, thanks for that

Hey everyone i just got a 1983 ford laser for cheap and the fuse for the indicaters/Dash Guages, keeps blowing it was blown when i got the car, i replaced it, drove around the block and it was blow again. any hints?

i use castrol gtx or gtx2, never had any problems n its 20/50

don't think there is,just disconnect ur main hoses, flush out radiator with high pressure water, then take thermostat out of motor n flush the block aswell remember to locate jiggle valve in thermostat upon reassembly, and to use a new gasket for thermostat houseing

don't bother windings the caster arm out, just unbolt it directly from the control arm there are 2 14mm nuts under neath the arm which bolt directly to it. Under the end of the arm where it meets the strut there will be 2 17 mm bolts which hole the steering arm to the strut, take these out. on the end of the steering arm that attatches to the tie rod end there is a ball joint, you will need to undo the nut and use a hammer or ball joint seperater to get the steering arm off there (replace the control arm and steering arm at the same time, chances are if ur LCA is bent ur steering arm isnt in good nick either) undo the swaybar link to the control arm, 10mm i think. and then undo the main 17mm bolt that holds the control arm to the chassis

ill agree with alot of what has been said. cut springs can be just as safe as lowered springs if held captive, and vise versa for lowered sprigns not held captive. for the rear, I'm not sure if it was mentiong but holden HQ rear shocks are shorter stroke and tougher valveing, as are ra60 celica rear shocks, ive used both with cut stock springs and cut falcon springs in the rear and both feel fine and never had an issue with the spring falling out or anything.( i did have the issue when i was running standard shocks however) for the front ive done research on it before and did not come up with much for a shorter stroke shock, look into VW golf shoccks, i have a feeling they are shorter and wil fit the ke70 strut, but probs not worth bothering with. for a pair of ADM 86 front struts with brakes and steering arms you are looking at 250-350 bucks, thats without springs or shocks(or with standard crap items) also when you lower your car you will need a wheel alignment

spotted my KE70 back on the road yewwwwwwwwww. also spot a orangey red/primer ke55 coupe everyday at work lol. this arvo on the way home spotted a mustard ke20/25 with a black bonnet

hmm maybe, but then why didint early ke30's have borgies....? lol

i don't think its interchangable coz i doubt the ke20 had a borg warner but yeah early ke30 might be an option

the axles may snap after lots of thrashing but saying they "will" snap is going abit overboard, ive done thousands of k's over 2 ke70's with locked diffs and never once snapped an axle,(i did break a diff centre but that was shittily welde din the first place. chopped springs are dangerous and illegal yes, they can be made to be less dangerous by useing shorter stroke shocks(ra60 rear shocks work a treat) you can use EA-EF, falcon rear springs and cut them down to about 220-250mm free height if you want a stiff rear end. you can read up on front suspension in other threads on this site but the most commonly done dodgey mod for the rear of a ke70 is falcon springs. some people even run them in the front but i have never done this so i wouldn't know what its like, apparently the spring does not seat properly so prob not a good idea. for abit of front negative camber get yourself some xt130 or ra40 lower control arms and put them in, make sure you wheel align immediatly after.

do you have a multimeter and a variable resister? if so, put the temp sender in operating temp water, duno what it is? 100 degreesish? then measure its resistance then use the variable resister to resist the same amount and put it through 12 volts to your guage and see what it reads

sure was do you work at that mobil?

yes, useing that you shouldnt have any toruble

yah that was me heh, like my exploded muffler? was gunna do a keybanger but thought id better not with that much traffic around someone was bound to slam on the brakes lol spotted my ke one step closer to seeing the road again :y: