DearmanKE

you can swap the front aswell as gril lights and bonnet you wil need both front guards, the pannel behind the bonnet(where the water shoots out) and possibly the beaver panel, tho I'm unsure on that.

tailshaft needs tightening/balanceing?

so you can change cams without pulling the head off? coolio

get some pics up, also where are you from?

5pk is what they have standard on gze's so there shoudlnt be a problem if you use that, i plan to. 80kw on 7psi is nice, this is a 5k yeah? once you sort fuel out should work a little better, with efi are you faced with the same problem of blow through that the fuel pressure must always be mroe than boost pressure. if so use a riseing rate regulator.

yeah but it went damn hard, miss that thing second gear snakeys in the dry any day and it was just a stock 4k that didnt idle properly lol

being sick :) *** old ladies who can't drive for shit and try to change lanes into me TWICE! had to have a rage at her to vent some anger probs the most ive ever sworn at a senior citizen lol

don't add mroe pipe just swivel it so its not over the motor, this cost me 30 cents of cutting disc, lol

parked next to a green 2 door ke30 with a white bonnet and celica wheels the other day at Hj's girl driver, if your on here that was me in the ra40 celica

I'm unsure if the crossmember is the same, myguess is that it isnt, but if you get a manual ke55 crossmember it will bolt up fine because the holes drilled in the bottom of an auto ke55 and manual ke55 are the same

looks alright man pretty damn clean, what sus has it got under it? fair camber, sigma arms? do your research on superchargeing and you'll be able to get there plus you'll learn a shitload along the way! knowledge is power :)

uleh, what reg did you get? you can come get the bolts and water pump sumtime, my project is on halt bcoz I'm sick like a dog again

once you undo the bottom bolt you should be able to swing the caliper away from the disc fairly easily

the psi should be prety constant through out the rev range whats the diameter of your crnak pulley?

yew! boost! how come its an Xx model but it doesnt have a 5 speed? anyways its clean as, will be sick when its boosted

yeah usualy a good hard push with a screw driver is enough, and a hammer if its abit stiff.

cracked head?

spotted a ke26 wagon today on glynburn road old bloke driving about 40k's an hour holding up the traffic lol

although stop leak isnt usually recomended because it can block up bits in your radiator making your cooling system less effective i had this same problem in my old ke70. i used stop leak and it worked fine, the car would get a bit hot on idle, but it did that bfor i used stop leak anyway. so yeah

oi i gotta stock gze one, its 2 inch exactly, i might want to keep it tho, but yeah GZe ones are 50mm and 4age ones are 55mm i believe

well i pulled the gearbox out today and you guys are guna laugh at me, because i actually suck lol k40's and k50's have a small rubber boot that goes over the clutch fork on the outside of the bellhousing i had installed this boot on the inside because i was like it wont matter which way it goes(coz at the time i didint realise they went on outside and i assumed it was inside because of the spring on the outside sort of being in the way.) so yeah i installed it inside so the rubber boot was rubbing against the pressure plate slightly creating the whirring, and then when the clutch was depressed it was pushed further against the plate createing the screeching noise!

yeah my ke70 is abit shit at starting like that to, just put a new motor and starter in, the old one did it sumtimes, i think just shitting electrical connections on the starter wires so il clean them up,

well i pulled the gearbox out today and you guys are guna laugh at me, because i actually suck lol k40's and k50's have a small rubber boot that goes over the clutch fork on the outside of the bellhousing i had installed this boot on the inside because i was like it wont matter which way it goes(coz at the time i didint realise they went on outside and i assumed it was inside because of the spring on the outside sort of being in the way.) so yeah i installed it inside so the rubber boot was rubbing against the pressure plate slightly creating the whirring, and then when the clutch was depressed it was pushed further against the plate createing the screeching noise! lame, anyway when changing the clutch fork with another bfor putting the box back in(coz the other fork had a better end clip on it) i accidently strecth my release bearing clips, so yay more fun for me lol oh and 2moro or wednesday should be getin another brake booster

175 is actually pretty good, and conisdering you don't even have to pull the shit out, thats a bargain.

if your going to be moveing the solid fuel and brake lines, just make sure your delicate with them, don't bend them unecassarily, you can get new lines made up and a brake shop aswell.