sam k

Depending on your budget you can pick a genuine Webber up on eBay from $400-$600, then just get the adaptor to suit. Could save the hassle of dealing with second hand stuff.

The experience I have is a lot of time comparing the differences between running a single damper/spring and two. With a lot of track time, and road time trying to find a good set up for these cars. After many hours of R&D this set up gives the best result. There is a big difference between remote reservoir dampers, and a standard KE strut. I really don't think the two can be compared. It is not overkill, its an extra damper, not an extra spring and not increasing the spring rate. The benefits being you get a better controlled bump and rebound, with out having stupidly high spring rates. The biggest improvement being the better rebound control the extra shock gives you. Yes quality is the most important thing of course, but quality is Proflex, Reiger, BOS, Ohlins, not your Pedder's or Monroe. There is a big difference. Anyway its good for everyone to have there own opinion, but I'm sticking to mine.

Not really, why not have both. This set up improves the current single shock set up. This combined with a good insert such as a BOGE insert and a lower and slightly higher spring rate makes a huge difference. I think I have the only set up like this, so without trying it you really can't have an opinion.

You could have a twin shock set up on the front. I did it to my corolla a few years ago. makes a huge improvement to the handling. also the ride is a lot more controlled.

Thought you guys would like to see this! http://www.motorsport-sales.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=320&products_id=3721

Hey. haven't updated this post for ages so thought I would. My 3K is almost dead, so its time for a new 4K. Ill be starting to build it in a couple of days, so will update. Its just going to get a standard rebuild with a skimmed head, and I may make up some extractors if I have time. Heres a pic of it just sitting there with bits hanging on there. Still need to give the block and most parts a final clean before assembly.

After 4K piston, flat top good condition.

Still here mate. still need to fix quarter panel when that's done it's all ready just put a later dash in as previose one was really cracked.

yeah mate rego and going just put new points and condensor in it goes well. my number is 0488137896 car should be ready in a couple of weeks sorry for the late reply as well don't get on here that often

$2000 With 2 spare 4ks a 5 spd box another 4 spd box a racing seat that bolts in. and other stuff

http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=21802&st=0&p=259729&fromsearch=1entry259729

Hey I'll have my ke36 for sale in about a month. I'm in Hobart. Full respray. Wheels. Ect. Should be a thread of it in rides section

Hey. Just thought I would mention that mt stages rally is on the 2nd October. It's around mathina area about 50 km out of launi. It's the final round of the state series and should have around 20 cars. Spectator info can be found at. Www.tasrally.com.au

Personly I would go rally over speedway. I have done both types of racing and still do rallying, rallying has more to offer and more places to go with it. In speedway I found no one will help you out, but in rallying people will come from everywhere if you need a hand. I'm not bagging out speedway but its more a personal experience I have had with the two. so what ever ur into I guess.

Hey i know this isn't corrolla but need really ergent. 1988/89 mazda 323 2 dr shell or complete car with good roof and quaters will look at anything in tas. let me know if you no of anything, cheers 0488137896

Yep excel series is a pretty good way of getting into it. Buying a built car can save alot of $$ and usually there all sorted ie set ups and suspension. Also some people might think FWD cars are not quick but they can be on gravel with a good WA and driving. Also FWD style can carry on to 4WD style as you use some of the same princibles. But RWD is always good fun.

I think people under estemate stock brake set ups. Some slotted rotors as the ones you have mentioned, and some good pads, and fluid you would be fairly supprised at the differecne. And as Rob said the less unsprung weight the better.

Just use copper or something that the weld wont stick to and put it on the outside of hole then just plug it up with the mig. sand back and bog it thats all that needs doing primer it so water doesn't get in the bock and rust out.

I'm not trying to encourage you to go crazy, but in hill climbs you usually want to go hard right from the start. It gets you into a good mindset and rythem. In rallys I usually find driving at 8-9/10 I find that I feel more uncomfortable than driving say at 10/10, and just try different lines stuff like that and some things might not feel natrual and fast but the clock doesn't lie.

$500 everything all materials really clean job, all labour myself so didn't end up costing alot,

was the 323 4wd shit? not saying yours is slow but was it pretty much stock the 323?

I usally run 34 in the front and 32 in the rear to compensate for the rear being stiffer. I like nice and hard front's gives nicer turn in and nice light steering.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?gl=AU&hl=...p;v=65iD4gkelfg awesome video has a couple of corollas in it I think.

he's still pretty involved with the tas rally seris

Maybe look at caster aswell. Caster gives you camber when your wheels are turned, on the outside wheel. It also has alot of benifits especially in a rally car when your usually sideways. And tends to give an almost auto correct, and nice when counter steering. Also nice feel through the steering. I know its not camber but might be something to look into