greenmac80

hey mate welcome back!!! looks like a very neat pick up... sad to hear no 20v tho lol... at least go 5k if u wanna keep it oldskool.

yes depending on how good it is and how much...

yeah rear sump is a no go as well either the x member goes down or the motor goes way way up... so the x member is the one to change. hmm i was thinking escort perhaps the 2 ltr ghia ones? i may be able to get a tory bracket easy enough.. will look into it more tomorrow... down fall to all this is i'm goin to have to repaint the car again at some stage as i'll need to delete the original filler.

i literally can't take anymore off the sump... my tailshaft is only just in the g/box so pushing it back will be much better. so the x member is the only thing left.. also as i said the x member won't be supporting any weight anymore the whole mounting system is going to be changed. basically the x member is going to be flattened in the middle and reinforced a bit on top and bottom. perhaps a cut and shut bellhousing except the fwd box only has half a housing i think.. will look at it more closely... the bellhousing idea is exxy but... i am in no rush as it will be done with the forged turbo build... it could be a couple of years away yet. spare wheel well has been removed and plated nice and strong... frees up a shiteload of boot room as well. fuel tank from the 5e is a no go absolutely no way of fitting it its jst to wide. so i'm going to make a new one.. the shape will net me 54ltrs and the new filling point will be behind the numberplate. nissan man where did you get the flip down number plate brackets and filler section from?

why can't u drive? loss of liscence?

engine bay is empty again... 5e head off and when money permits i will be getting is pressure tested and faced.. also it has an extra waterport underneath the inlet mani.. going to get that welded up as i don't need it.. i'm also simplifying the cooling system to better suit my needs.. the rear housing has been done away with it measured in at 85mm thick the new plate and outlet i've made still hold the thermostat and is only 45mm. this will allow me to push the motor back another 20mm or so.. also i'm changing the mounting system all together essentially going to mount it the same as FWD with a custom front bar for the front engine mount. this allows me to extensively change my engine x member as it won't be supporting weight anymore. in turn it will allow the motor moving back and i will be able to use an unmodified sump. also i have the paseo fuel tank with it efi setup and i will be mounting this under the car as per factory paseo. will eliminate the fuel vapour smell and simplify my whole fuel setup. also will free up heaps of boot space. as for future plans i've set in stone.. the 5e bottom end will be built forged and o ringed. head fully reconditioned. turbo (unsure of which yet) megasquirt ecu with EDIS system and i will get a bellhousing built to do away with the adaptor.

wish i coulda gone wasn't counting on my car buggering up... next time i'll bring the zze122 out..

80mm

wll measure for u right now.

ae71 mc my friend.. i heaqr ta22 also fits. i know ae71 fits and works running it in my ke30

so some decisions made. Acquiring a 5e soon. Will be fully rebuilt with better valve springs and higher compression running megasquirt with the ford edis wasted spark COPS sick of doing things cheap gonna do it properly and be done with it

i'm out car stuffed... spewin

nope unfortunately not.

and its buggered overheating problem came back with a vengeance and it cooked several time trying to get it home i believe now that the head has a crack i could be wrong but i'm ready to throw it in the bin.. a few things are going to change. noe looking for a 5e. will install one of those and also try to locate a toyota sera ecu and sensors etc etc. Coil on plugs FTW. also going to find a different radiator more suited to my needs.. get rid of the annoying header tank and have the outlets on the same side. f@$k this car right now but i have learnt alot and it'll only get better now.

no pics yet still have to pick it up not fussed about room probs gonna drive it paint it and sell it make some coin. Who knows I may keep it

yep its going to scrap unless someone wants to give me 50 bucks and pick it up from clayton bay?

+1 for earth check all the pins in the main steering column plug.. mine slipped back and caused similar problems.. if not then quite often the combo switch can be the culprit.

working on my console today and i've fitted a plate to install mt power window switches should have it painted by friday so i can install the guages and switches. and on another note my ke10 is going to scrap... i;m a soon to be owner of a minty 4 door mk2 escort ghia.. 2ltr auto red velour interior vinyl roof & woodgrain dash.. stoked right price and i've always liked these cars.. woulda got one before a rolla but escort money was way more than i could afford.

done babe wipes it is

i wish!.....

well after huge amounts of time my dash wiring is all completely redone.. indicators work.. high beam indicator light done charge light sussed and handbrake warning light working tacho and fuel guage working. speedo has power but no signal yet unsure which wires do what on the sender yet. water temp guage works better sender has ashat itself new one on order,. illumination working properly and i have wired in my hidden antenna. works well. power window switches all done. need to finish off my console to mount them properly and install my last 3 guages.

haha if i can't figure out why my motor keeps going limp then i wont be going any faster than the rest of ya'll even in a toyoglide.

me P sucks balls 22 still on P's... chainer sounds great anything hills i'm up for.

mines a 30 too btw.. lol no biggy.

well not running a thermostat wasn't helping... so now it revs up to 5000rpm but will not go any further.. booked in for a dyno run next week so they can tell me wats happening if i don't figure it out before then.. hopefully i can figure it out and get a proper power figure done.