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greenmac80

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Everything posted by greenmac80

  1. yeah I did all that aye and it made no difference. But at least its running now I believe it was the ignition pick ups in the dizzy. When I pulled the dizzy out I checked the continuity of each wire and it was all perfect it was the same with the new dizzy. Only thing I could see was the pickups had seemed like they were no longer in line causing a slight delay between the switching. When I replaced it all I gapped it all exactly. Put it on and off it went. Like I said though I can't prove it until it happens again if it does.
  2. ok been way too busy with other stuff to even Start work on this but today the car ran again for the first time in ages replaced all the internals on the dizzy timed it and off she went. I have my suspicions as to what the problem was but I can't confirm it. Atm I now need to sort out why it was overheating and finish installing the power windows. Hopefully by the end of the week i'll be driving it again
  3. longchamps and ill steal em or hump em!
  4. won't be making this car still not playing ball
  5. wheres the update pics?
  6. +1 as above! works every time.
  7. at this rate i might have to catch a ride dale
  8. bit of fckn about but they can be installed.. i did one on my ke30.. exhaust clamps to fix the sway bar to the diff.. then drill the chassis install crush tubes and viola done... took me 4hrs to do it tho... drilling the holes in the chassis is a bithc cos there isn't room enough for a drill without removing the diff.
  9. get paid for it WTF... pricks are criminals.. scum etcetc.. should be treated so... no pay... minimal food... long hours.... etcetc.
  10. looking forward to the roof fix... roofs are extremely hard to panel beat/get straight.. a apanel beater once told me that if you've reached the skills of your panel beating to then mix up a HUGE amount of bog... and bog the whole roof in one hit.. then cutback to straightness.. but need to make sure that the bog will be thick enough cos if you need to bog more than once its starts getting even worse.
  11. they should bring back menial labour... as you drive around the country side you see the brick walls the old convicts used to construct.. i reckon if criminals all had to do it like the old days there would be less crime to begin with...
  12. loooks friggen awesome dude.!! i hope my wheel combo will look that good on mine.. jst my opinion i reckon it looked better before the extra lowering.
  13. yep its still getting the start signal. well now the ecu has its constant memory feed.. so according to diagrams its almost 100% factory setup.. i have another idea to try and then i'm up to getting another ecu and loom and starting again or trying another starter... the starter is working fine but perhaps not i don't know...
  14. And i have been thru the relays and tested the voltages whilst cranking and on ignition ON so i know they are all working.
  15. Yeah i thought that so put relays on everything. The ignition switch only triggers the relays for ignition ON and start signal also i have a relay for the starter motor now. The car still cranks but won't fire. But will push start jst fine. I also tried another ignition switch as well.
  16. As for the starter motor i suppose i have nothing to lose it aint gonna hurt to try.
  17. Yeah i've been through everything twice and so has the auto elec. Everything checks out and it push starts easily. Jst for some reason whilst cranking the ignition feedback to the ecu disappears causing it to not start. It can't be componentry cos it push starts and runs just fine. Also it worked fine for ages then it started getting tempramental then jst stopped working. Also the battery isn't the issue tried bigger ones and jump packs and direct feeds and it made no difference. It just doesn't make sense. Currently trying to find another ecu to try. Apart from that i don't know.
  18. awesome dude... thought about going for a better timing belt?? hks or gates? yeah and i was wondering why the oil squirters being put in... 20v already has em.. had me confused i tell ya. glad to see your keeping the vvt... i wonder if you could mod the switch to be progressive so vvt-i?
  19. WTF!!! i missed out somewhere... you haven't ever said what the motor was.. here i was thinking you were polishing a k motor crankshaft!!! lol looking awesome. very interested to see the power output.. long while back i had planned to build a high comp turbo 20v 9000rpm tdo4 got to the point of having everything mounted and the block ready for internals.. even shimmed the oil pump same as you have etc. but lost the funds and decided to can the project.
  20. ok no go same as before... noticed that the ecu hasn't got a constant 12v feed... its been wired into the ignition ON feed i wonder if thats the problem?
  21. well my mates one was very very stiff... uncomfortable stiff but it was as low as it could go.
  22. well postie pics when you done cos i'm interested to see how.
  23. aren't these liteaces some sort of torsion bar front end? you just wind some nuts up and down and it changes your ride height.. my mate had a liteace with a k motor in it so i would think they'd be the same model.
  24. have you actually looked at it? with a rolla joint next to you?
  25. how do you plan to mod the skidma arm?
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