greenmac80

Evan buy some 'crystal' headlights and some +30 bulbs and you'll love it.. my setup is the same and the lights are better than my 2002corolla.

well upon the suggestion of the auto elec to replace the ingnition wires with sheilded cable i pulled the loom out the wires had to all be lengthened to suit my rwd setup. upon stripping the wiring all back i found that the 2 feedback wires were sheilded from factory... but since they had been lengthened so much the sheilding basically is useless... so i'm redoing the loom removing unused wires.. shortening lengthening etc. will be done with it soon so we'll see what happens.

nope not sorted... hackham auot elec spent 4 hrs on it and couldn't find out whats causing the problem... well they found the issue but couldn't figure out why its happening or how to resolve it.. basically as soon as you crank there is no signal coming out of the distributor no 'feedback'. thats the problem... but there doesn't seem to be any apparent cause for it. so Grant from dynatronics is being organised to have a looksie.

yeah the N14 pulsar booster will fit... but... the firewall will need a slight modding and the strut tower near the firewall will need a bashing too. the rolla doesn't really have much room to allow for bigger ones.. but it is a bolt in jobbie though.. i would use the booster and MC.. but for stock brakes its probs too big unless you have future plans for bigger brakes? the N14 booster on the listing is for the sr20 model but i highly doubt that the ca n14 would be a different bolt pattern

sif build to nasty specs... forged everything 9000rpm.... massive cam.. i wanna see 120hp NA... lol

well i'm rooted i'm at my wits end... i have tried everything i can think of and everything anyone else can think of.. and still no go... it still push starts but will not start once cranking.. i've added earths here there and everywhere... put relays on everything... tested power every where... tested voltages everywhere etcetc. and still nothing... even once the battery was fully chraged and the CCA came up as 400cca it still didn't do the trick the voltage still dropped down to 10.7V i don't think its enough. so its now with hackham auto elecs hopefully they can give me speedy diagnosis... on another note i reckon either i have a cooling system block or the thermostat isn't doing its job.. cos its getting hot and staying hot... just something else to sort out. getting over this shit... but once i've ironed out the bugs it should be all go andbe reliable.

No idea mate there are plenty of booster that will fit the firewall i'd go with what ever mc will fit the booster.

Early KE30 booster.

well i can only hope... the battery has spent the night at battery world on their machine doing diagnostics and recharging it... i'll grab it today and give it a crack.. if it works then i'll drive it a while and see if it starts to happen again.. if it happens again then i need a bigger battery..... does anyone know the size of a cressida alternator?? cos from what i could make out they will be a direct bolt in and i would hope its more amps than the standard 40amp starlet one.

i will be in methinks... car is pissing me off but i should have it sorted by then

^LOL.. on another note... there is alot of good dubstep and alot of shit dubstep... this is gotta be one of my favourites http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mEFzMNUFIr0

brown carpet= poo black carpet = WIN!! great job with the car looks great! keep the updates coming

awseoms great work... gotta love th real noticable improvements.. like the strut brace i built.. far out 8mm mild steel that f@$ker will never move!!

brace looks good... wondering reasons behind material choice? looks like ali? tubular chromoly could've been another good choice... from what i've seen most aftermarket body bracing is tubular mild steel or chromoly. are you going to install the brace first drive.. then doo diff mountings? so you can isolate the differences in the car?

yep turns out the starlet is recommended to have a 430cca the battery dude reckoned the 330 woulda been fine even though i did tell him the details of the car.

well after much assing about... everything has relays now... also the ignition switch has been tested and is fine... everything is fine... but.... EVERYTHING in the car gets 12v when its on ignition ON as soon as you crank EVEYTHING drops to 9-10v i'm thinking wtf? so i check the battery... 12v then crank and it drops to 9-10v... push start the car and everything is getting 14v.... so myself and a few others are thinking the last thing it could be is the battery... perhaps its too small. its 330cca but nothing else explains the voltage drops across the board. so mid next week i'll try using a jump pack on the car and see if it works.. if it does then obviously i need a bigger battery.

yes relay is giving power when ignition is ON perhaps i need a 5 pin relay? but from what i can make out from diagrams they have 4 pins from factory. i could be wrong though. and give it another signal from the start signal?? relay is getting power directly from the battery but earthing through the chassis next to the relay. the power feed idea i thought of and i'm going to try that today. Cheers about the car means alot coming from a fella that is and has built some really nice cars.!!

When ignition is on the dizzy gets 12v and it will push start once cranking it drops to 9v even though the power is coming from a relay I"m so confused

Ok still not working any ideas guys? Installed a relay for the ecu and starter. Still won't start when crankin but can push start

okok so not the coil either... i have found the problem methinks... the efi stuff isn't running through a relay and these cars don't have starter relays either... so everything is going through the ignition switch. so when ignition is ON the injectors dizzy etc all get power... using a test light... when cranking the dizzy power feed drops almost by half using the test light.. so its almost as if the current drop is too much for the ignition to do its thang.. i believe this is right as you can push start the car but cannot start is by cranking. so tomorrow i will be installing a relay for the starter to see if that fixes the problem.

any more updates on this dash???

well i don't own a gun i borrowed it off a mate GTI pro gravity. and at work most days i use a devilbiss HD GTI pro and again i'm not impressed... but its what work supply me... also this is pressure pot and industrial painting. so i've been thinking of purchasing an iwata lph400 for me or a devilbiss advance HD which is the compacts replacement.. perhaps when i'm ready to do the KE10 i should tee you up to come to adelaide all expenses paid to paint/coach me. cos seriously the pictures make it look like how mine does now after hours and hours of sanding and polishing..

okok so not the coil either... i have found the problem methinks... the efi stuff isn't running through a relay and these cars don't have starter relays either... so everything is going through the ignition switch. so when ignition is ON the injectors dizzy etc all get power... using a test light... when cranking the dizzy power feed drops almost by half using the test light.. so its almost as if the current drop is too much for the ignition to do its thang.. i believe this is right as you can push start the car but cannot start is by cranking. so tomorrow i will be installing a relay for the starter to see if that fixes the problem.

hmmm devilbiss pro... i used that to paint my car... DNA diamond clear with %30 medium thinner and i really wasn't impressed with the atomisation of the gun... do you have the HVLP cap or a transtech cap? i've been thinking of trying a different gun... i have found that the devilbiss compact series atomises far better... but in saying that perhaps i should try some slow thinners for the clear as well?

well i have an exedy HD clutch in my 4efe ke30 and i love it... grabs well but is really easy to drive.. its hasn't slipped even with a limiter dump... 6200rpm. just think any harder you looking puk button etc... these all make the car harder to drive... would be great and fun at first but i reckon you'd get over it.