greenmac80

was wondering if you were still kicking about!! we should do a pizza night thingo again.

10th i'll be there.. provided nothing goes wrog with the car lol.

baha I reckon I figured the problem will try out my idea today and report my findings other than that I'm really enjoying the car.

lol one day but I'm undecided it'll either be an na 5e or a surcharged 5e

boost? Dude this is a non turbo motor

yeah oh well.. its back together and its now running properly well sorta... its not overheating anymore but there is a distinct power loss at approx 4000rpm really annoying.. i'm sure i'll figre it out.

well all back together and still the same problem... the water is boiling in the head but not in the block... seems like a blockage but its been all flushed... thermostat was suggested but its brand new... i'm gonna gut my old one and put that in see if it fixes the boiling... what i really need is to see another 4e so i can have a look at how ALL the water lines go. and compare to mine.. perhaps i have something plumbed wrong.

alloy welder? yes but why? the head is bent 5thou top and bottom the idea is that bolting it back down will straighten it out...

so the theory is bolt it down after cleaning it up and essentially bolting it down should flatten it out. and pull the top of the head where the cams are straight as well. its only bent 5 thou so not heaps the ghraphite gasket he thinks is quite forgiving and the new headbolts will help out as well as they are a torque to yeild bolt apparently.. so they'll settly in how they want to. basically i'll give a go if it works then yay.. but i'm now on the lookout for another head in good nick to get cleaned up as a back up.

nah u can face it but it would still mean that te top of the head where te cams bolt to will be warped and the cams will get worn or seize up.

well i picked the head up and it tested ok but they didn't face it.. the head is warped... so he gave me the option... the machinist reckons that with new headbolts and a graphite gasket it'll cplamp down just fine but no gaurantee... but if i get him to straighten it it'll be a full reco and cost 500 ish bucks... so i'm going to bolt it down and fingers crossed she'll be ok if not i've only lost a head gasket. if it work sweet as and i can start searching for my new motor.. 5e.

ok so lonsdale engine works let me down and its getting delayed till friday so the car won't be back together till sat arvo

so do i... but it shouldn't happen again.. i guess maybe it was something to do with me having the motor in and out so much... also it sat around for 2 years... dunnu

doesn't that bottom line represent torque?

f@$k u ryan lol it seems they do evan just a normal one still over 100 bucks. I have plans for another motor this one is pretty much the prove its reliable motor. Phil yeah stoked this is the last problem to take care of.

head off.. taking it to a machine tmoz.. will have it back wednesday so by thursday arvo she'll be driveable.. yaya. gasket was blown on cylinder 1 but on the upside everything inside looked in great knick.

what was the torque figures?

Yes yes.. being broke don't help fingers crossed it all goes well without the head getting shaved.... head gasket is $90. oh well i suspected the HG from day one... but it seemed to be ok. but i could def smell the gases from day one but it wasn't overheating. now it is bad.. i'm hoping the head is still ok. anyway should b done by wednesday then i can enjoy it.

AND its a blown headgasket from cylinder to water jacket... got combustion chamber gasses in the water and the system is getting massively pressurized. same thing happened with my old motor. dang.

i got it sussed now sam..

pretty good really... wow at the rpm... were u streessin with it revving so high?

previous posts explain that i got it running again.. suspected misaligned igniton pickups in the dizzy

ok so power windows test fitted... work pretty well.. i wasn't happy with the mounting of a few things including my speakers... due to their weight they keep tearing out of the mdf.. so i have competely removed the inner skin and built a frame work for the door/speaker/window regulator.. much better now. so a few changed will happen to my door trim.. no interior door handle.. electric popper instead.. hiding the x over.. flush mounted speaker setup like jdm55's setup. VH commodore interior arm rest with VN commodore power window switch flush mounted. so basically my door trim will consist of a speaker and an arm rest... simple and clean.. pics up when i find the card adaptor.

good work interesting to see your power figures once finised.. those coolant lines don't look like they'll flow they look kinked in the pictures.

fark yeah make sure they 15x8 with heaps of negative offset