greenmac80

thanks mate. haha yeah its sooo slow! but ay. hopefully it'll be worth it. i only wish i could jump into a ke with a 4age so i could get an idea of the power!

you won't need that as long as you aren't going efi and it doesn't matter where you put it

mounts welded. also got my clutch cylinder and lines!

gpt my mounts welded will sandblast and powdercoat tomorrow. then i'll start duplicating them next week! note: the quality of the weld! goes around the entire peice of metal!

wouldn't have a clue. i didn't think the facet pumps came in different strengths. but honestly i doubt you need a regulator. but as coln72 said hide them away or mount on something rubber cos they a fn noisy!

ok the pump is supposed to get a signal from the coil to turn on. and it just pumps at a constant flow. all that happens is pressure builds up and the pump can't pump any more. when you hit throttle it gives a bit of extra responsivenes due to the extra pressure. you'll never use more than it can give. you make a plate or buy a plate to block the hole off. with my pump i couldn't get it to work off of the coil so i hooked it up to a manual switch. quite good as a type of immobiliser ... if your car gets stolen it'll konk out 50m down the road!

what exactly is the pump? i used a facet pump and i never had any issues.

well are you sure the 7 degree timing is right? maybe its off? i seem to remember the number 9. i could def be wrong. have you checked you fuel flw? disconnect the hard line from the carby and turn the motor over. if it doesn't pump fuel then there is your problem? EDIT: soory shoulda read more carefully. ummm have you tried filling the float chamber up? and then trying?

have you checked each individual lead for spark? not just the one from the coil?

i had this problem or something similar. i had fuel spark etc. everything was normal. firing order was correct. but!!! the dizzy was out by 90degrees! check that your dizzy is aligned correctly. the person that had the car before me must have aligned my dizzy wrong but had the leads going to the correct cylinders. so when i put the leads to how they were supposed to be it wouldn't start!

acrylic is good for the diy ers. simple if you want it to last use an acrylic paint but a 2pack clear. acrylic is easy to sand if there are imperfections and it can be redone quickly. with a 2 pack paint you don't want to stuff it up! once the colour is perfect hit it with a 2 pack clear. if the clear comes out orange peely you only nedd to wet rub and buff! also acrylic is cheaper. DON"T skimp on your clear coat! that protects the colour!

yeah i'll only ask the cost of postage as a deposit. i'll find out postage soon i gotta send some paint off this week and i'll find out then!

It'll be replacing my passenger front! mine had rust! i'm aiming to get completely rust free panels. almost there! need a passenger side front guard and a drivers door!

ok engine mounts tacked together. a little messy... i aint no welder. getting our boiler maker to clean em up and weld them properly! then powder coat! then make more sets! ok who is definately interested. ke ping it real who else?

brand spankin new overflow bottle as well. also i'm gonna need to repaint my engine bay. i musn't have cleaned it too well as paint has flaked off. and also the motor has hit the firewall a few time and chipped the paint! i might put a green tint in it this time like my grill!

engine mounts. gonna clean em up and weld get them properly welded tomorrow. then powdercoat! new goodies! brand new indicators!

then clear! really happy with the result. the clear flowed out really well! engine shot with all the painted covers and no loom!

next step on plenum. learning to paint better. topcoat.

you could always get some spotties and use them as high beams!

yeah thats it. yeah tried hammer and tried going both ways and i've been steadily spraying it with crc since last wkend. gonna give it another shot tomorrow. man i hate old stuff! new is sooo much better!

people thanks for the help but i've undone the nut and the tie rod is out of the steering arm it won't unthread from the rack end!

go on the website! brightlightautoparts.com lights are over 100 and then your bi-xenon hid is about $500. can get cheaper though. egay have some sellers selling kits for about $130.

did you get the bi-xenon HID? also did you get that wiring thing on the website?

no but to try using the arm as leverage i will

good idea didn't even think of that!. hmmm shit though cos i gotta take the strut out again.!