greenmac80

sorry shoulda been more accurate. it won't unthread from the sleeve!

i reckon theyd look wicked.! i was looking at angel lights on ebay, the actual rings and i was considering trying to fit them into my round lights for my ke55. would give a modern flair... then add HID!!

ok last suspension bit to replace. drivers side came off easily. passenger side won't fn budge. i've soaked it in crc. and still won't budge. i'm using a big set of vice grips. anyone had this problem? what tools have you used to get em off?

thanks mate. you should come by. have you got anyexperience in removing windscreens?

thanks guys. hmm i'm replacing the roog lining all together but i'll still need to get the windows out to put the new one in. oh well. will give it a shot when i have a car cover.

hmm i might just cut both seals. i have no interior so your method would be quite difficult. thanks for the heads up. windscreen rubber aren't that expensive. so i'll just cut em out. thanks guys!

that door. just a random photo

strut panel off new ball joint. installed. took ages.... but at least the ball joints won't need replacing for a long time!

for ke55 and older you need custom mounts. i believe for a ke70 an ae71 xmember will bolt in and then you can use the 4a mounts. for a 16v you can mount it in the right position so you don't need a custom gearbox xmember. for 20v i'm not sure curently working on it. you'll need an ae71 t50 slave cylinder. almost any master cylinder can be used (try to find the slimmest one you can) for 20v. cooling system.. find sam q. he has a cooling guide. also the intake plenum will need to be made. this hits the clutch cylinder. they can be found www.driftbitz.com exxy but look good. i am building my own. the alternator will need to be moved as well. i'll be working on that soon as well. for the 20v yager performance make a DLI kit. this basically eliminates the distributor and leaves only the CAS. there isn't any bolt in diff upgrades. a ta22 celica one will work well but you'll need to get the leaf spring mounts moved. you'll need the front yolk from an ae71 tailshaft welded to the rear end of your stock one, possibly shortened as well. there is alot. look in engine conversions and rides and projects. i'm doing the 20v conversion. another guy has a coupe that is almost finished. have a read. the 16v is easier. but an older engine. both engines have good sides and bad sides.

alrighty. replaced both lower ball joints and one of the tie rod ends. couldn't get the other one out. soaking it in crc. filed out the steering arm holes to fit my struts. got all the steering gear bolted in. and i got started on installing my intank pump. will post some pics later. also found myself one awesome door! no rust. and not even a single dent! seriously!

how to get the windows out then? never done it and am very scared of breaking the glass and those metal bits.

ok i tried removing my lining today and have found that the inside window seals look like they need to be removed? is this corrrect? or is there and easier way. i'm guessing that the only way to remove the inner seal is to remove the entire window.

sump hard to see but it is flat and height mounts aren't welded just test fitted before duplicating the sections actually decided i don't like the drivers side one and i'm gonna change it. will post pics when i'm done

more pics

ok made the side plates. found that for you 16v guys i'm gonna have to design the drivers side one a little different. but won't be any harder. ok for the 20valvers i left 20 mm from the end of the dizzy.(to allow engine movement plus the extra distance the dizzy cover takes up.) for you 16valvers i can leave the mounts as is but the distance is 70mm from head to firewall.

thats the nature of the 20v.

good finished making the bits just need to test fit tomorrow. then if it work i'll duplicate the sections and get them welded up. i'll leave the rubber mount hole for you to drill makes more sense that way. how close it sits from the front

the holes are a fair way apart... so iw on't be able to do that either. it'll be a custom x member there!

all depends what your after.i wanted more power straight away. na the 20v is better than any 16v.

thats a good idea! may just do that!.

much better!! should use baby oil... only a little bit to give it that shiny look.

haven't got that far yet. gonna get the engine sitting in properly and then look into the gearbox. but i've used an ae86/71 t50. had another thought... if this suits some people better. i can make full size drawings and scan them to the computer with the dimensions and shapes? so i'll be making another 3 pairs?

Link to engine rubbers i used http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...N:IT&ih=022

if the crossmember is the same then they'll fit the only thing is how much closer is the firewall? if at all?

started on plenum today!