parrot
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Posts posted by parrot
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Hi Team
I need to replace the oil seal in my 6.7 inch T series diff. How necessary is the SST to remove the companion flange?
Any advice would be appreciated. I have the SST for the seal itself.
But the SST 09557–22022, or 09557-22021 are NLA
I will also need to replace one in another diff, so if there is a specific tool, i'm happy to buy it.
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Not very good photos but condition looks pretty poor.
Most people bypass these and go to twin webers as they are too hard to tune.
I think you wouldn't get much for these and I assume you are overseas so post isn't really feasible
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Toyota tend to use common parts across the range at the time. The aircon and heater parts have a lot of commonality. Many cars didn't have A/C, but still had the holes which were simply blocked with a rubber plug which is common across a wide range of Toyota's.
if you are going to keep it registered, you need to keep the heater. Not much to be gained from removing the heater fro a weight perspective either if that's your thinking.
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Classic Japan is in Melbourne! Run by the Toyota Car club. Unfortunately not this year, but all should be good for Dec 2022. And who knows, I might even drive something there for once.
i'm a huge fan of aircraft museums, but find it immensely frustrating when the exhibits are generally in a darkened environment and usually in gloss paint.
Moorabbin Air Museum is one shining exception to this, and you can actually touch the exhibits, and some you can even clamber into!
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Nah, Classic Japan is where it's at!
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Fond memories of my cromoly, 6 point, non gusseted, bolted in cage in my TA22.
Thankfully it never got tested out.....
Mind it would of been 35yrs ago.
We did test out the alloy 6 pointer in my mates Datto 1600 though. Weirdest feeling trying to work out which way is up
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Have been thinking about a GTI for a while, but the prices have inflated somewhat due to the general shortage of new vehicles, and it’s apparent a number of modified GTI owners are taking there cars back to standard to sell them off while they are attracting a premium. Don’t want anything like that
But now there is the Corolla GR on the way! Looks a lot more practical as a daily car than the Yaris which when I looked at it was just too small. Local Toyota dealer couldn’t tell me anything, so all I know is the gossip on various websites. And the Toyota Australia web person was a complete waste of time. Toyota Gazoo racing Australia did get back to me, but they can’t say anything yet. They did say they have no info yet on transmission options. I really don’t want a manual for a daily again. Just too hard in Melbourne traffic these days, so very keen on a DSG option if they do it.
So just need to be a bit patient and see what they come up with.
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Non retractable’s.
There’s a place in West Aust that specialise in making or refurbishing old belts bug I haven’t any experience of them.
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Need to provide a bit more detail. Presumably in the US? What have your thoughts been / what have you done so far? Do you want to modify what's there or throw coilovers at it. What are you plans for the car.
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I reckon the battery issue is the problem, but doubtless one Keith could manage.
Had a bloke rock up in his lime green Tesla last week to pickup some old C40 solexes. Was planning to replace the SU's he had on his Datsun Fairlady. Was telling me the tesla has a power to weight ratio that's better than a bathurst supercar thing.
But which does he prefer to drive? The datsun of course.
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I got all excited when I saw something called a Perodua kancil shares 4 x 110pcd. I mean how sporty is that name, has to have tasty factory alloys......
Perhaps not, and FWD
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Presumably there is a committee somewhere in a manufacturers design centre, determining what pcd to run in a model range.
I wonder how/why they come up with it?
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That corolla is hella clean. Does the same person own the Tiara?
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Well they are US based and KE20 is rare over there.
Realistically you need to upgrade to coilovers from something else- often AE86, and go to a TE27 85mm spaced steering arm to fit them (T3 do those too, factory are rare and very expensive). The ball joint pin is smaller than everything post KE20 so you can’t really use a later factory steering arm.
Then you can access better brake, strut insert options and have larger bearings etc
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TE27 struts, brakes and steering arms are different from ke20.
As are the engine crossmember, tailshaft and rear diff, if that is relevant to what you are thinking.
There are myriad other smaller differences.
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Control arms are the same
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https://www.accuspark.co.uk/help.html
Instructions and fault finding
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I doubt your accuspark is at fault. Your issue was present before you fitted that.
Now you have it running properly, try refitting the accuspark. Simple enough to take it off again if no good
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If I was you, I would put the points dizzy back in and solve your issue. Check the low tension wire from negative coil to the distributor isn't broken, or earthed at the distributor end. Then check the wire from that inside the distributor to the trigger unit (or points if you put that back). This is what triggers the coil to actually send current to the plugs. If that circuit fails, no trigger.
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I thinks that’s the essence of what the Olympics should be about, not billion dollar basketballers and tennis players. Not sure why we should spend so much in AIS and so on though
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ITB's means an aftermarket ECU, they are also EFI. The mechanical side is easy. Wiring it neatly and making it run properly is the hard bit, as well as sourcing the various parts you need. If you want things right now, you will pay through the nose for things.
I've lost count of the number of 90% complete projects i've seen for sale over the years - "just needs wiring".
Be realistic with yourself. If you can manage that yourself, or are prepared to pay to have it done properly (not some backyard job), then go for it. If not, stick with a K motor.
And understand there are a number of different 4AGE's out there, from the original 16 valve TVIS engines through to 20 valve black tops with ITB's as standard.
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There is no doubt there are some killer parts prices if things go bad. How do you get an engine consumption test done? Sounds like something that would require the car for a few days which isn't really an option when buying. I've snoozed the GTI forums on faceplant as all you see are a litany of fault codes and various other failures. Although most of the people on there are taking them to various states of tune. Of course they are not all like that, but varied stories of high oil consumption, leaking thermostats, DSG issues.
Took one from a dealer for a test drive yesterday as a learning exercise. Lovely car but cosmetically a little rough. The wheels are a sitting duck for curbing. He wasn't happy when I pointed out the lake in the boot, or when I showed it to the other guy looking at it. The DSG shifts were a little ropy too until it warmed up, then OK. Went like the clappers. No surprises they weren't offering much of a trade in. Left salesman and used car manager scratching their heads looking in the wheel well. So I think I will look to sell the xtrail privately, register the AE86 and drive that for a bit while looking for a good GTI.
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Is it a pusher or puller pump? If the former may want to consider relocating to the boot?
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Woke up early this morning, couldn’t get back to sleep worrying about something or other so reached for the phone. And have had a fantastic hour reading over the last 7 1/2 years. You should be very proud of what you have achieved! Waiting for my K/3K to come back from the machinist, repair areas in high fill - in other words just what I needed to see!
What a car you have built
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Diff seal removal
in General Mechanical
Posted
Thanks Keith. That manual is far more detailed than what I was looking at and has some excellent stuff I would have missed. The genuine Toyota AE86 and Celica / Carina manual is a bit lacking here.
I’ll go out and give it a go