Medicine_Man

Not sure how similar they are to a KE70, But KE70 colours are as follows.. Blue Blue/Orange Blue/Black Blue/White

Washer bottle should be a 2 wire plug to power the motor. The squirties should come out of the grill under the window..

Usually they are a 4 pin squarish plug.

sure someone hasn't cut the plug off and taped over the harness? Where I'd expect to see it come out would be with the harness on the passenger side firewall behind the strut tower..

Send me a message if you are going to be there and I'll walk round from home..

Usually the wiring harness comes through the firewall right near the wiper motor. Sure someone hasn't tucked it back inside the car?

Spotted Mungi Mods the other morning turning from Beaudesert Road into Evans Road..

No shit, I'm a f@$king auto electrician for f@$k sake, Do you think I would honestly be that f@$king stupid to not select the right wire before wiring something up.. The reason why I said its dependant on the load, You are not going to put a 5A fuse in there and pop it the first time you plug something in.. Cable has to be selected to minimise voltage drop and carry the correct current load. You are not going use 4mm cable to wire your starter motor up now are you? It is very important to have the fuse right at the battery, I made this a point because of reading the following "I've run the one that come directly out of the back to the fuse, then battery. I one off to the side has been connected to a bolt that secures the tail light. " Fuses are designed to blow in the event of a dead short, Say the wiring rubs through somewhere and touches the frame of the vehicle. No point in having the fuse right at the socket when you still have all this wire running along the vehicle back to the battery.

Fuse should be right near the battery supply, Fuse size is dependant on the load that you will have on the circuit..

You are quite wrong, The suits are designed to stop the paint contacting your skin as it contains the isocyanates. Sure they breathe but the overspray will settle on the suit and not your skin. direct quotes; "Isocyanates used in paint systems can cause health effects via skin contact or when breathed in during paint mixing and spraying." http://www.deir.qld.gov.au/workplace/subje...ances/index.htm "Disposable paint overalls are cheap and will cover the whole body apart from the face. Disposable gloves should also be worn. Together these protect the skin from paint." http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/paint-safety.htm

You must use a full body suit as it is absorbed through the skin too..

Some people aren't dodgy and like to do things properly..

Durack and i have sent him an sms, he is just around the corner from where i work..

Sooooo pretty! Looking good...

where abouts do you live?

Check your fuses Blown 15A Hazard/Horn fuse..

To eliminate the wiring to the sender and the dash in one hit, Turn ignition on, Remove wire going to the temp sender and touch to the frame/engine block of the car or use a test lead from the negative side of the battery, With the sender wire going directly to frame you should see the temp gauge start to climb from cold to hot. (Full gauge deflection).

Yes, My Dellortos do it to, From what I figured it's the change in Vacuum under load that causes it..

Look for 2 decent sized wires going in to the tank near where the sender wires are..

Nice tidy job, Keep the effort up ;)

If they don't spark it means they are rooted..

You don't need to remove them from the head when testing them, In fact by doing that you are not testing the frame return side of the glow circuit. You need to have a good eye for the difference between an inductive spark and a spark of a dead short. When you say you got no spark, is that when applying 12v to each individual glow plug? No spark means that the glow plug is open circuit and needs to be replaced..

Yes, That is why you check you are getting voltage to the bus bar first. Secondly you should have heard the timer go *thunk* when it timed out.. It is very common for the glow plugs to burn out, but more common for the bus bar connections to burn out or break apart due to vibration. test the glow plugs individually (bus bar removed) by a test lead applying 12v to them. If you see an inductive spark it means they are drawing current and are good.

So the glow light is not coming on when you turn the key on is that what you mean? It should go out once the glow timer has timed out. If thats what is wrong then it sounds like something in the glow plug circuit is f@$ked. Could be the glow plugs, bus bars, fuse link or even glow plug timer.

If you have got no dash lights then you have lost ignition somewhere, Most likely cause is a blown fusible link..