Medicine_Man

Teddy and I booked our flights lastnight :D

Would believe it would be 1/8 gas

Test at the fan with a multimeter or test light, Power feed and Earth OK? Fan motor could be open circuit (Low Brushes)

LOL, That is awesome :lol:

Awesome stuff, Can't believe how close it is now..

Yeah, It will be pretty much the same..

So the fan doesn't work on any speeds at all? Could be the fan motor has worn the brushes down over the years, Try give it a tap and see if the brushes free up and it starts to motor again.. motor should be above the passenger side foot well.. There will be a fuse for it too, Sometimes the shafts inside the blower motor build up dust/rust up and start to cease up which in turn increases current draw and pops the fuse..

Whats in mine currently.. Chokes - 32 Main - 145 Emuls. 7772.1 Air - 210 Idle - 55 Pump - 35

You had better believe I am GORing...

I love this car! hahaha :)

Xany (Simon) has one behind his 5K in his KE55, Pretty sure its cable too...

You would be better off getting in touch with Toyota or possibly a locksmith about that. It all depends on how the security of the vehicle works, Can you start it with just that key? Or is it still immobilised? If you can start it with that key, Then possibly you just need another key fob programmed to the keyless entry system..

It should not spark without cranking, It requires a signal generated by the dizzy to make the ECU trigger the ignitor.. You didn't pull the gearbox out without disconnecting the battery at all?

From what you have written I assume that the coil is sparking before it gets to the distributor? (You have taken the lead to the middle of the dizzy off and checked for spark during crank?) That would mean that the distributor is sending the correct info to the ECU and triggering the coil. (Low tension side of the ignition system is fine.) That means the the problem is where the spark is getting distributed through the rotor button, through the cap and to the desired lead/sparkplug. (High tension side.)

Hows the rotor and dizzy cap? Could be arcing out inside and the spark is not getting to the desired lead..

You will need an aftermarket computer to drive multi-coil from what I understand. Stick with the standard ECU and just replace the coil if it is faulty.. Do you know if the ECU is even triggering the coil? Can't just say that the distributor is not putting out any spark... Could be a bad connection at a plug somewhere...

Got a ride in this earlier tonight, I endorse this event and/or product :)

It is usually the single wire that is the clutch coil wires, If the clutch coil is not getting powered it could be by a lack of a/c pressure in the system not causing one of the pressure switches to close its contacts and feed it..

With a test light or multimeter, see if you have 12v going to the clutch wire on your compressor when your a/c switch and fan are on..

Do you have all fan speeds? checked fuses?

It is actually the change in direction of current from the collapsing field that creates the induced EMF that makes the spark.. If you have the same potential on both sides it will never work..

leaking head gasket? Cranking pressurises the water jacket and pops the welsh plug out..

Reminds me of the sound of this one..

Now hurry up and get that 70 on the road! :S

You can't power both sides of the coil or it will never fire. Sounds like dodgy ignition wiring, Fix that and it should solve your problem..