Medicine_Man

i was not talking about the switch being faulty. i was saying there is a pad it rests on to keep the contacts open / switch off till you apply the brake pedal you were saying that it stays on when your foot is not on the pedal?

If the brake lights are staying on it is more than likely the cushion the brake switch is meant to stop on has perished and it is allowing it to go to full extension and stay on..

Nice progress

I'll be there too :)

Well after some drama this morning on the way to meet up at Xany's, left my car idling on his driveway and the fuel pump decided to shit itself. Kind of had a feel it was a fuelling issue when she was struggling to do 90km/hr on the highway so I had to take the slow roads, lol. Better late than never I suppose, Special thanks to Xany for driving me to repco to get a new fuel pump for it. We eventually made it but by that time most of the crowd had apparently left... Hopefully it will be registered for the next get-together..

oh, too far away for me to look at it, lol! Here is a wiring diagram, Hope it helps..

where do you live?

Why wouldn't you just get another one from the wreckers if it is faulty?

yeah, he has left, in texas at the moment i think..

Hopefully bring my other ke70 pending the availability of a trade plate..

Did you even get the air flow meter? Factory ECU is probably not going to be any good if you didn't get the full kit..

from what i hear in qld, apparently without factory self leveling suspension it is illegal, will defiantly be better than the standard lights if you fit them, your call..

go the microtech, most places should be able to tune one. Nice and easy to wire too..

Yep, It has been a while since I made an update on this one. What has been happening is that I have been repainting and fixing up another KE70 I have had sitting in the yard for quite some time. It is close now to being registered and then I will take the yellow car off the road. While the yellow one is off the road I will be fixing the rust and respraying it all as it is starting to beak out in a few select spots. Then I will be putting the 5K out of Tony's old rally car in as I bought it off him a few months back and will fit all the uprite parts that I have..

basically because there are 2 contacts on the base of the bulb, put it around the wrong way and technically you are bridging both of them together.. can also happen if someone puts a single filament globe in too..

I am an auto electrician and i see it all the time. Quite a common thing people do, they don't realise that the bayonets on the globe are offset for a reason. It is the only part of the circuits (park light and brake light) that are so close together and is the logical place to look first.

You have managed to put one of your brake globes in back to front, that simple.. door lock actuators may require adjusting..

follow the top radiator hose towards the engine, should be somewhere there, bit lower to the left side of the cam cover. quick test is turn your ignition on and ground the fuel sender wire at the tank. You should see the gauge slowly climb to full doing that. It is quite possible the sender may be faulty. Do that test to prove it.. (Yellow/Red wire by my diagram)

Oil pressure should be yellow black, connect it to the temp sender on the motor. Putting a 4AGE in should not affect your fuel sender.. need more info of why it doesn't work, have you played around with the fuel tank? or running a different dash?

Factory temp is on the firewall at the 6 pin plug.. fuel sender should be the same, or have you modified something?

Cool, Shouldn't be a drama, Will PM you my mobile #

Cool, What things are you stuck on?

Cool, I can come round and have a look for you.. How urgent is it?

Where abouts do you live?

If it is similar to what i have seen before, 2 set of plugs (bigger ones) go in to the ecu from the engine, the other is from the body harness, then there may be relay box wiring outside in the engine bay to do too.. a lot of the wiring should be similar colours..