Medicine_Man

I've done quite a few 4AGE wire ups in KE70/AE71/AE86s.. Normally I just wire the engine harness separately to the body and just give it Battery/Ignition supplies etc where needed. Usually strip out what isn't needed for the body side of things from the old harness. Though you would probably leave that in a newer corolla like yours as it should integrate to your body harness with a minimal degree of fuss..

Honestly if you can't read a wiring diagram and have to ask you are going to struggle. You also need the right tools to test and diagnose the electrical systems to make it easier.. If you come back with a more specific question I may be able to help, But apart from that you may be better off getting a professional to wire it up.

That section you have circled would appear to be a plug coming from the ignition/start switch.. 5 Ignitor wires are.. IGF - To Computer (Black/Yellow?) IGT - To Computer (Black/Blue?) IG+ (12v Ignition) (Black Orange) IG- (Negative side of Ignition Coil) (Black?) Tacho Signal (Black?) L1, L2 & L3 according to the diagram are shock absorber control.. look at some of the 16v wiring diagrams on the FAQ, some of the wiring is pretty similar..

Actually, if the key is starting to hold on it is something to worry about. Next thing you know it will one day just start running on while he is driving and pole itself to pieces. hammer against the solenoid is not the trick to getting it going either, that is with low brushes and you tap near the brush plate on the com end of the field housing.. i am an auto electrician, i see people make the same mistake all the time and bash solenoids and break them for no good reason..

So angry I missed this :(

worn ignition / start switch?

it is not necessarily a short that causes a drain, it is current draw.. that wire looks to have come off the supressor, quite common..

simple google search http://home.swiftdsl.com.au/~bradw/Wiring.html

Where abouts do you live? may be able to give you a hand to sort it out..

Going by the wiring diagram, the reverse light switch comes off the same fuse too.. mabey it is rubbing through somewhere? haven't had the dash out recently at all?

if you have to ask you probably can't afford it.. rates are somewhere around $90/hr for a qualified auto electrician..

Should be a grub screw or two holding the ignition switch in, not sure about the rest.. should be fairly straight foward..

yep, exactly the same..

Nice build, I am impressed!

Awesome, Hope that bar comes out of the the mould a lot nicer :P

Mabey the second one is brighter, I'm not sure, Could always ask if they can let you try them both out in the store to see?

Pretty sure it would be all sweet seeming as they are a replacement item

I would assume they already have a built in resistor and should be a direct swap..

Awesome!

Sounds like a dodgy connection or fusible link at the Battery. Should be a 3 pin connector coming off the positive battery terminal, That is the fusible link. Make sure you have power getting through your fuse link.. Failing that, next step in the equation is the actual ignition switch..

Sounds like bad a bad earth

They were twin 40s

shotgun sump and oil pickup? lol!

Tried to come over twice last weekend to have a look but both times you were not home :(

Of October? as in this Saturday right?