Medicine_Man

going to be taking it to archy any time soon? if you do let me know so i can come have a look at it..

look up conversions done to hiluxes, should be fairly similar and is a popular conversion for them..

Awesome idea for a thread! This is what they look like after you have whored them for what they are worth and to make the car body disposal guys go WTF?

Nice build, Like the attention to detail :)

where are you living these days? should drop round for a look see..

its fine if you put a diode in-line with the wire to D+ otherwise when the alternator is still spinning making voltage on D+ the car will try to run on when you turn it off..

it probably would, yes, put it back to standard.. D+ on the back of the alternator..

ideally it should regulate at around 14.3v but that is all dependant on lots of other factors..

12.1v is your battery voltage, so yes, the battery is not charging..

sensor is most likely the wrong resistance value..

leave the body harness and just wire what you need to the engine harness..

Projecta is cheap shit, That is why I recommended the smartstart..

Bigger alternator and dual batteries managed by a redarc smart start dual battery isolator..

I'd say the brushes are getting low, pull it out and take it to an auto sparky to get it checked over..

I can supply and fit for you..

Red/Blue are the reverse light wires, not sure on that black one though.. does it come out of the same harness?

probably be easiest if you can find an original fuse link at the wreckers otherwise if you get stuck let me know and i can make you one up out of proper fuse link wire, but plug on the fuse/relay box will need to be changed to accomodate. i can't see what the other wires are for in my diagrams, but if you get stuck let me know and i'll look on my rolla to figure out what they are. most stuff on that side is ignition supply for idle control and fuel solenoid on the standard carb...

#2 is power feeds to your fuse/relay box. Must connect to the positive side of your battery via a fusible link. Yes the black/white is your start signal wire to the starter solenoid. #3 the thick wire is the charge wire to the B+ on your alternator and the other wire is the charge light. 3 wires to the denso alternator for your regulator should be; Ignition - Ignition switched 12v Lamp - From your the smaller yellow wire in your third photo Sense - Connects to the positive side of your battery.

Here are a few of mine..

Awesome cruise, Thanks for organising it. Great fun and was an awesome lunch too.. I will be making a bbq cruise in the not so distant future.

engine died after lack of oil.. been pulled to pieces and not sure how far things have gone yet..

see you all at Keperra..

Should bring my brown piece of shit along..

bad connections, possibly bad earth leads, current is trying to find an alternative path, hence the sparks when it is trying to jump a gap.. explains the sluggishness of the starter..

at the very tip of the brake switch there should be a small rubber pad to stop/cushion the pin of the switch from coming out until the brake pedal is pushed away giving it room to come out. When it perishes and falls away the switch pin goes straight though the hole that is now there leaving the switch at closed contact position/on.