oh what a nissan feeling!

Pistons will need to be changed, the 3tc ones are ugly mega bumpy looking things.

Yep, nothing to it, if your mate can weld good then half an hour later it will be all sweet. and this..

1. Probably minimal mods to the mount onto the engine, mostly mods to the ke20 crossmember 4. Tunnel is to narrow at the rear of the box, will need to be widened. 6. do a search or pm username "kangaroosa" and he can direct you to the thread. 7. yes 8. Gtir is east west, like a front wheel drive, if you have a gtir engine then you have the wrong engine!! I have a ke25 with an sr20 in the bay sitting at my oldies house, got sidetracked and have not got back to finish it for a few years, dig the thread out it may be of use? There are other build threads on here, some make a custom drag link for the steering, this is unnecessary if you cut a small amount of webbing from rear of the sump.

1. shackle rubbers, or mount of your choice, i have used ta22 mounts in the past. 2. Make your own, 25mm shs and some angle iron. 3. Do not mod the firewall. 4. Only length is the problem, use a rb20 gearbox with an sr20 bellhousing for a better shifter position and less length. 5. no 6. I used ta22, kangaroosa has since discoved a method using rx7 master that is much simpler, use sr20 slave. 7. Would be custom for ke20 i would think, some use remote booster, this usually only boost fronts which my engineer hated the idea of. 8. Gtir :lolcry: . s13, s14, s15 sump with some of the webbing at the rear cut out to clear the steering will work fine. 9. no

I changed my ke25 from toyoglide to trimatic, tailshaft is different length, crossmember is different too. Pretty much a waste of time i found, the final drive is still the same, you just have one more boring gear to get there....

The hardest part about owning a rotary is telling your parents your gay. Or the fuel bill? :hmm:

I did my crown wagon, you will need to weld the length of the roof. Was no trouble, time consuming though, the roof didnt warp at all either. enjoy!

Advice? check that it is legal in your state.

Excellent, looking forward to some progress.

Ha ha, nice work, its kind of addictive isn't it. sometimes the most budget builds are the most fun. :y:

Nice machine, looks like a whole heap of fun, great to see it getting driven hard :y:

Excellent, that is really good news mate, good to hear your health is getting sorted, and good to hear this machine is will be finished as intended. :y:

ha ha, classic comments :y: Yeh wouldn't surprise me if they made me remove the rear seat. I will try to get it through as a four seater, talk to the guy about padding and all that, I don't think it will happen though.

Thanks mate! It is a really fun car.

Nice before and after shots, very cool comparison.

In this attempt my front passenger cv is already broken, and i forgot to put the rear locker in. Solid hill though. :yes: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rBcFgjaHPUI&feature=related burnouts. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OBUAcqTuKxM&feature=related http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W76bQDDztas&feature=related

Thanks guys, oil leak, what oil leak? :lolcry: never thought of that, should help it get through roadworthy. Nope, will be complied as a two seater, not just because of the taxi bar but the rest of them overhead as well. back seat is for powercruise. yep, should have. :yes:

rear screen pulled in today Rear shelf covered in vinyl and in. Rear seat, not bolted up, need to put seat belts in first Chrome gutter trims on. Crown back out of the corner, brakes all good now. Used the pajero clutch master cylinder, ms112 crown brake master cyl and booster, ms112 front brakes. Stops good now, ready for some blue plate. Got a bit keen with a black pressure pack, 7m, what 7m?

Nice progress this is all happening pretty quick, that last shot is cool as, I guess it will be the last one though once them big brakes go on.

Interesting, please find that link if you can. would be interesting to know what revs I'm doing at 110kph.

Yeh, 4wd conversions in general i think, people used to think it was ok for them to be excessively slow and make up for it with low range. With a bit of grunt its a whole new game, when i go out with others they see how i drive it, and where it can get, and realise why people are doing 4wd conversions.

Hi, I have actually had the same little drama with my vx powered pajero, hooked the feed from the ecu to the tacho but it has never worked. I have not been bothered to look into it, just figured it must use a different signal or something. but just so you know youre not alone.

A bit of of an update with this thing. Has been serving as my wifes work car since it was finished, has been extrememly reliable, but a thirsty pig. Has had 1" body lift, tyres touched the mudflaps on flex. Went to Landcruiser park, twas good, cheap chinaman cv joint sheared off in the middle with very little abuse, so was a 3 wheel drive for the weekend, genuine reconditioned mitsubushi cv going in next week. I have some good vids, but need good internets to upload. These are the only still pics i took, so forgive the ghey flex shot pose. minor damage to the plastic, i will admit the door and sill are crumpled metal underneath. Also went in the local burnout comp, have 2 vids to upload, locker worked well, 31's were not the ideal tyre size to smoke, but it did a good skid. Pic i found on boostlosing...

Just to be clear, just because you can get it to bolt up does not mean is sitting properly. To do the conversion properly you need to be able to sit the motor precisely where you want it to sit, anything less is going to be crap. Dotn get me wrong, I am definately not trying to dicourage you from doing this, its just so much easier to do it properly the first time. :y:

Of course it does, its already been explained right here