oh what a nissan feeling!

links are similar to a webber type setup i guess, with stainless hyme joint? linkages between the two pairs. They are not on in the pic, but i will take some pictures of that as well.

No worries, i have some measurement but will take pics tomorrow as my video camera only does daylight pics, still camera died. Thickness is approx 90mm port spacing approx 97.5 between them. The head side of the itbs is a perfect oval shape rather than round, but could be shaped to whatever you please i think. Oval measures 35 high and 54 wide. Ports do seem to taper a bit, though its hard to tell as it goes from round to in the last bit.

I have a 2 sets of gtir ones here, they are 45mm. I guess how useful gtir ones are to you would depend on port spacings? I'm happy to get any measurement you require off them.

This is really really cool, thanks for sharing! So 2.4 capacity, as light as a 4ag. Cheap as to buy. :hmm: What are the factory powers numbers for the model you are using?

At least youre not expecting to rego it. Do it, slice a big hole in the middle of the firewall, remove heater, and get the engine as far back as possible to keep the thing handling nice. Then build a box around it. :cool:

Last i heard ICV is currently unavailable in qld. 2jz 1200 coupe, um tell I'm hes dreamin'

Very nice man, probably the first and last time i will ever say this this, but that is one tidy spacer.

Cannot be engineered in qld. Unless you have an engineer in your back pocket. So as mentioned, talk to an engineer in your state.

^that is complete bs, but you will find that out anyways. Good stuff, with a built engine it all makes sense, it will be an animal. Keep the updates coming!

So a built engine is on its way?

You're right, a conrod through the bonnet at 8800 would scare most people. There is a reason people run the gt28rs, boost from pratically idle, with 300rwhp in a 800kg car, power-on burnouts at 80kph. :hmm: Would be real close to getting you that 10sec 1/4 as well. Anyways, not trying to be rude, i do love this car, just sayin'.

looks good! optomistic timetable, hopefully you get there though, once the baby comes time will be hard to find. :y:

hinting at a built engine? Nice progress man, good to see this going to the next level.

keen to see fat watanabe!

I think i will enter the moo pajero in this, anyone know how to enter?

yep, lots of spares :cool: Ah thanks man, didnt know that. well, if the steering wheel wears through i know the answer to my problem now. Already planning the third rebuild, its a worry, i think these things slowly turn us into perfectionists. :y:

Heres an approx list for you: rods $400 pistons $600 bearings $250 Arp main and head studs $300 Mls head gasket $300 Machining and balance $900 Various seals and gaskets $200 Timing belt $dunno? + cost of assembly......

yep, dirty old nissan engine, I have definately accumulated too much sr20 crap to change now, I recon i have enough junk here to put together 5 running motors + spares! yeh, 1mm oversized on both valves, i have some narprec springs, and some 'performance springs' double springs here too. Solid lifter conversion, new rocker arms, tomie solid cams 12.5 lift 270 'advertised' duration. Adjustable gears, rocker stoppers, and titanium valve retainers. yep what you said, expensive! Max flow is 260cfm @ 4.5 lift, but the low lift figures are really really good, better than any other one i could find. I found a few that had a higher flow at 4.5, but the low lift figures were even lower than an unported head. Thanks man, you are definately on the right track for your 10, its just traction that will get the better of us.

Yeh, i know what you are saying. I didnt spray the front arm rests cos they were the right colour, window winders will be fine, definately worried about the steering wheel though, but have decided to give the outer ring a few coats of 2 pack clear, should prevent it from wearing through for a long time. The paint is acrylic with flattener and flex added, couldnt use 2 pack as it cannot be flattened enough, it can only get to dull gloss, rather than a full flat finish. I also have the same colour in 2 pack that was used for everything else like roll cage, floor, ect.

thanks man. Not a show car, it will get driven just as hard as previously. this is the third time i've rebuilt the thing so i just wanted to do it right once and for all this time. The main goal of the car is still a 9.9sec 1/4 mile pass.

pretty sure there was a few nos ones on ebay. superpro or one of them nolathane companies will make them as well, just go to your local burson/ repco/ ect...

Hey, cheers for the feedback man, its slowly starting to look a bit more like a car. :)

Not a big fan of the plastic in the ke30, so removing as much as possible, so yeah thats why the kick plates Nah wolf isnt small, the dis4 is suprisingly large, just a v4 wolf.

Work has been a bit slow, so a bit more time spent on this lately. door handles assembled after the re-chrome. quads more assembled too. Ecu and spark mounted to alloy plate that fits up under the dash. New door steps made out of alloy plate, will be painted silver. Parcel shelf attempt, damn cage is making things a bit hard though.... More interior junk is now the correct colour. Painted these behind gaurd bits, and also the rear door window deviders in 2 pack black. Head arrived back from porting.

cool, console turned out awesome, so shiny!