altezzaclub

That's why I reckon a couple of Kg is fine, I think mine went from 8 to 6kg. In the end you need some decent steel to make something like that one above. I haven't heard of a 4K one flying apart mind you, usually the big stories involve Skylines or similar... I wonder what filfrederick used in his 4K-16valve at 9600rpm?

Hang it up from the roof & put a drop of engine oil down it every time you walk past. When it drips out the bottom its ready to go back in.

Have you go an engine size in mind?? 1600cc or 2L or 2.2?? How much power before the leaf springs become hopelessly inadequate?? Bore the 4K out to 5K pistons and fit quad carbs off a bike, extractors/exhaust & a cam. Have the whole lot balanced & lightened. That's about the best you can do without changing to overhead cam, and if you're going to do that then 4AGE or 3SGE is best unless you want to go Nissan. They will ll take a lot of work and changes to the whole drivetrain.

Radially you can make it thicker where the pressure plate bolts go in. Its a comparison of a spoked wheel versus a disc wheel really, and you can put your 'spokes' where the stres is greatest. On the 'front' face in the lower photo above you would mill out the metal between the bolt holes down to the clutch plate face, it doesn't do anything. This is nice-

The best way is to mill it off radially, the cheapest is to lathe it off circumferentially. Take a couple of Kg off it, I'm sure you can take off more but at some stage it gets weak. You need enough to support the ring gear and the pressure plate pulling the rim backwards against the center. Here is mine compard to the auto flex-plate it replaced.

I've bought a few good Datsuns over the years by noting down their rego numbers when I saw them, getting the details from the Post Office & writing to the owners, or just chatting to them when they stop. I'd rather buy granny-spec than modded, so the forums aren't much use to me. There's a lack of somewhere to sell a $1000 car on the web, and the big companies are gathering up the small websites and twisting them into their particular system. Our local paper no longer advertises cars for sale online, it directs you to Trading Post, which is a waste of time instantly. Gumtree seems to be the only hope.

One of the SUs has a port on it for vacuum, which I use for vac advance and the charcoal canister. The Su carbs do not pull much idle vacuum compared to 'normal' carbs. I have probably already tried running the vac advance on manifold vac via the brake booster but can't remember what the effect was. You get high vac advance at idle from the manifold, but I can't remember what effect it has as you open the throttle and it retards to get the car moving.

Often numbers stamped on the back. Depends on the grinder. Measure the chamber volume and work out the compression ratio you have first! Ultimately the side draught manifold flows much better than the downdraught.

Just read your figures again- so the stock carb won't quite handle 7000rpm, but the others will easily. Did you get them from here? http://www.mgbmga.com/tech/mgb19.htm Now you can see how guys can overcarb their 4K quite easily! Twin Dellortos would be absolute overkill!

Work it out.. http://www.theformul...showtopic=11007 1500cc is roughly 90cu", and 90*7000/3456=182cfm I'd say maximum you need is 180cfm, I don't think you get anywhere near 100% efficiency. But check my maths! Side draught manifolds should be more efficient than downdraughts. The oxy sensor works when hot so just as the collectors join would do. Mine are in the downpipes, as you saw, great for twin carbs. Use the SUs!! I need someone to bounce ideas off!! :laff:

Sounds good- shine a torch down inside the sill when you have cut the hole out and see what the rest of it is like. They rust worst around the A pillar at the front and around the very rear of it.

Get the specs of what you want and have an exhaust shop do it. We used a smaller diameter but thicker wall than most people use for space reasons.

Find someone who has done it and PM/email them. They might have done it two years ago and hardly come on here anymore, so they won't see this post but they have all the knowledge. To start it, you just pull out the motor and box, clean and tidy the engine bay and suspend the CA18 in there. I made cardboard models of the engine mounts then cut the steel to shape from that. We used sheet steel, about 18#, and crossdrilled the mounts to weld a piece of exhaust tubing in it. Much lighter than most people use, but very stiff & it worked fine.

manifold vac not ported vac Evan? Got that timing light yet 5K?? That will be the fasted way to sort this out.

...and usually the exhaust is not the choke point, so bigger inlet only will make the greatest difference.

The oxy sensor setup would be good if you have the SUs on, then you can reshape your needles to suit the car exactly & do it all yourself. As Philbey said, the Dellorto would make sense as you could have one run on a dyno to get it jetted correctly and leave it at that. Check what it is like getting jets for the Dellorto, ideally a local tuning place with a box full. There's nothing worse than finding it is running rich so you buy a leaner jet set and find its still rich, so you buy another jet set...

Ah- If you're not going to register it then the converson becomes much easier! You can do what you like with the firewall/tunnel for fitting a gearbox and to make everything as accessible as possible. You will need to be able to get the motor in and out easily, as I'm sure it will take many tries to get it right. The one I saw being put into an Altezza fitted well, but the exhaust manifolds were a work of art. He had a series of bent tubes made up that slid inside one another so he could tack them together under the car, then take it all out and weld it.

Lucky man! Des is right, the 5speed makes a big difference. Lighten the flywheel while it is out too. We bought a donor car, took the bits we wanted and sold it on. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/

What would you like to know? How much of a rebuild are you going to do? Rebore, crank ground, head done? I can look up specs in my Gregory's manual for you, but it won't have everything in there.

No reason why not. You probably wouldn't notice the difference in having a slightly smaller second throat unless you're on a race track, and at least its brand new. It will need the same adapter plate I assume, and once its running have it dyno'd and re-jetted. You could make it a really simple swap and just bolt it on, or take the manifold off as well and smooth all the edges out of it before you fit the Weber.

Corona lower control arms will just bolt in and widen the front track giving a touch of negative camber to give better front grip. A Celica rear sway bar is thicker, bolts straight in and cuts out some of the understeer. Both from a wrecker so cheap to do. Have the suspension tested at a shock shop and get a readout of how good the shocks are. If you need new shocks start to research which ones are slightly stiffer and either buy new shorter springs or cut a coil off yours. If I was doing it I'd grab a grinder and take a half a coil off the front and one coil off the rear and run it like that for a month. That's not much lower, but it will tell you how much stiffer it gets from a small lowering. You don't want to end up with a low car that kills your kidneys and your GF hates. We have one coil off the front and one&1/2 off the rears, which makes it 610mm from ground to wheel arch both front and rear. It also makes it quite stiff and people do comment on its ride. It doesn't look particularly low, just not as crazy high as it came out the factory.

Do the tyres scritch and scrub when you're driving into a carpark at walking speed? How is the understeer now? Does it push straight ahead more? I can see its better than having one wheel light up, but its such a poor compromise compared to having a clutch pack in there. Keep it high and hard, the cops don't notice high.

Well, its no good rushing off spending money on something that other guys have found doesn't give a good bang for bucks.. from 30seconds on google... http://www.edmunds.com/car-technology/brakes-drum-vs-disc.html Anyway, the REAL reason for using an R31 rear end is to get a limited slip diff! Once you start doing mods on a rolla the one thing that holds you back is the lack of an LSD. The problem of using something bigger is having more weight banging around in the back and jumping off the road, so you need to keep unsprung weight as low as you can. If you're keen enough you can shorten a Skyline diff and re-do the mounts and use it with an LSD.

lookin' good! What sort of mods are you going to start with?? Engine or suspension?? Go faster or handle better...

........and will you ever be able to register it???