altezzaclub

What he said is true, but I'm not sure it is important. FWD does have less transmission loss than RWD, but it is small compared to the overall energy needed to drive the car. I used a 1600 carb'd Pulsar wagon for work over 250,000km, and it ran around 7.5L/100km. I moved up to the next model Pulsar wagon, which was 1800cc injected (more efficient) and 4WD, (less efficient) The overall difference was about 0.3L/100km so less than 5% for having the extra drag of 4WD and the extra 200cc. Most motors now run more compression than they used to 25years ago, and they rev higher. Apart from the work and cost, any twincam motor made after 2000 will still have more power and be more economical than an old K motor. I don't know of any K diesels, the nearest will be an old Land Cruiser 4cyl, but they are horrible ancient things of 3L... so giant pistons rattling around!

Trim an inch off one of the other hoses and put it on with a screw glued in.

lol! You're gonna jump when it hits you! All your hair will stand up and ...... :laff:

That could be. So swap the gasket out and do the same thing when you start it up afterwards. Hopefully problem solved!

PM a couple of guys who have KE20s in the build forum on here or whip down to your local wreckers and see if there is one there.

It does tell you how fast it is opening, and it varies from grind to grind. Its a black art 5ksev, and it depends on the guy who is actually doing the grinding quite a lot.

Yeah for track work you won't need vac advance! Chat to a few guys at the track or race car engine builders. Some will lock their dizzys, others recurve them. The best would be the dizzy specialists in Melbourne, for a hundred bucks odd they will rebuild & recurve your dizzy for whatever application you want. They will need to know what cam, compression & carbs you're using I suspect, as you will want the advance coming in early but not detonating. Someone on here will know their name, I've forgotten it.

Is the choke on the Weber hooked up??

..in theory I suppose yes, but not that I've heard of happening. Do the muffler and see if it changes anything. Not good- ask your local garages if they can do a leakdown test, where they pressurise the cylinder via the spark plug hole and see if bubbles come out the radiator. If not, find out what tests they can do for leaking head gaskets. If you have a compressor at home you can probably organise it yourself. Seeing you have had overheating problems before with the water pump, it is likely that the head is now warped and letting compression into the water jackets.

What do you need for distributor-less ignition Dave? Sensors on the crank pulley, talking to an aftermarket computor that fires a coil on each spark plug?? I suppose it needs to handle all the sensors for temp & throttle position as well, so becomes a complete replacement computer... Too expensive avat2v??

My 1360kg Altezza runs its beams at 9L/100km, and the girl's 1080kg KE70 with twin SUs & cam etc runs at 7.5L/100km. so a third more weight for less than1/3rd more fuel. Then again, 210bhp compared to about 65bhp... avat2v, the simplest will be an engine already running rear wheel drive, so a 5K or 7K would be the cheapest starting point. The 5A motors would need turning around and a RWD gerarbox fitted wouldn't they?

Yeah, sounds like head gasket leaking into the coolant. When the car is cold the thermostat is closed, so compression gases push the water up the radiator and into the overflow bottle. When the thermostat opens they go up through the t'stat into the top of the radiator and escape via the overflow bottle. The initial liquid loss is not sucked back in as it cools, so the rad is alway short of a litre or two of water. Once its blown that out, the next day it doesn't blow any more out. Start it from cold with no rad cap and completely full of water and just watch it until it warms up. If the water overflows when its cold & bubbles come out then head gasket is gone.

Looks good Evan- How does the oxy meter read??

Was it just as bad on the old carb?? Auto or manual?? Can you get some real measurements in there?? "pretty poor" and "run on fumes" is not very transferable to another car... With a 4K in the Ke70 I get around 7.5 L/100km.on a trip, maybe 8.5L/100km around town, and that's on twin carbs/exhaust/hot cam. We got 6.4L/100km on a trip with the car stock when we bought it. So fill yours right up, zero the odo and run it for a tankful. When you fill it up next just write down the Km you did.

No, it will be the other way around. Say, stock is horizontal rockers, then a ground cam will make them lean down towards the cam side as you've cut the base circle away. So you trim the rocker posts and that lowers them to horizontal again. I'll draw it in a moment. OK, lets look at this. A cam is ground for more lift by cutting away the heel, as they can't add to the nose as easily. The lift is the ratio from the centre to the heel versus the center to the nose, so by cutting the heel distance smaller you have increased the lift. So as soon as you fit it you will have giant tappet gaps, for if the pushrod sits on the ground-away cam heel the rocker will face up in the air. So you reset the tappets to get the rocker horizontal, which has effectively given you a longer pushrod. In actual fact the ideal rocker sits aiming upwards slightly in stock trim, its not horizontal. Now when it opens the valve, the cam nose sits in the same spot, but your longer pushrod means the rocker will move down through a greater arc and open the valve more. The worst thing is that it will wipe off the inner top edge of the valve and wear badly. The other thing is that if you consider arcs and tangents, the horizontal pushrod move slowly per degree to start with, then speeds up as it moves further per degree in the middle of its arc, then slows down again towards the end. This is easy on the valve. You lose that geometry by cutting the cam heel out. One solution is to trim the rocker posts lower, the other is to cut a hot cam from a billet, not from a cam already made. This really only applys to pretty hot cams, rather than road/sports grinds.

First you would need an oil temperature guage to see if your oil is getting hot enough to need to be cooled. There are negatives to having one- The pump has to push the oil a lot further and will have to work harder. You would need a thermostat in there or the oil may be too cold when it gets back to the motor, so its like running on 'cold' all the time with the oil very viscous. With the thermostat in you might find it only drops the oil temp a couple of degrees, so a ot of work and potential trouble when you could just fin the sump. If you had a modifid car that you raced then it would be a good idea, but I figure a stock 4K is in no danger of overheating the oil!

Sadly it is running as well as the Toyota engineers could make it go. You could squeeze a little more with a better flowing air filter, but really more power will involve better carbs, a better exhaust and a better cam grind. Read everything you can find,as the more work you do yourself the greater the modifications you can afford to do. First up, do a compression test and post up the results along with the odo reading if you feel its still correct.. That will tell you roughly how worn the motor is and where to start. Here's what we did, but if you're short of funds a Weber downdraught will be cheaper than the SU carbs. They come up for sale on here, or come off older Fords & Italian cars. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/

Got any photos?? Have you hear the motor running at all? What bits of the fuel system have you got there?

:: sigh :: here- http://www.rollaclub...a_tough_K_motor

Haha! Maybe, but at least I can build a tough high-revving 4K if I want to...

Check compressions and timing. Sadly I spent months chasing the same problem on the Altezza without checking the compression as I don't own a long-necked compression gauge. When we checked they were at 30psi. There were carbon deposits holding the valves open.

I start my datto 1600 every 6months or so using a baked bean tin of fuel with the rubber hose from the fuel pump. Gives me instant fresh fuel each time. It might be better to run it like that then switch to the tank once you know it runs fine.

Ah- feliix & camerondownunder http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/11941-f-5krun-good/

More searchy needed... "How to build a tough K motor" would be a start. Then a few finer details from guys on here. Then you're into race car prep where people don't like to give secrets away! So, first and obvious questions- What are you going to do with it?? Drive it on the roads, drag race it, tarmac race it?? How much can you spend?? If the answer is under $5000 don't waste our time, you don't really want a high-revving tough 4K!

hmmm... When they grind the cam they take material off the heel, which is where you set the tappets. So the hydraulic follower will sit lower than stock, and the difference must be taken up by the piston moving further up the cylinder. Maybe he figures the hydraulic cylinders can't move that much before they bind.