altezzaclub

I was starting a big cleanup of the many photos scattered around my computer and found this... Now, when the next person strips a gearbox or does a clutch, please take lots of photos (on a real camera, not a blasted useless phone!!) and put up some "How-to" topics... How-to replace the input shaft bearing, How-to change a clutch, How-to replace synchros... If we build up a library of these it will stop a lot of new guys having to ask the whole deal every time. After a few years we should be better than Toyotas workshop manuals! This is Taz's 0.1% !! :yes: Sorry man- I did laugh when I saw it.

Put it inside the garage with both heaters on and I'll come around in the weekend! Looks like it will be freezing.

Ah no... you make a special drift that has camshaft diameter to start with, then a square shoulder to take it out to the cam bearing outer diam. (about 2-3mm) You put a bearing on the drift in front of the shoulder & you gently drift it into place with light hammer taps. Cam bearings are very delicate. I'm not familiar with the 2T, but if they are different diameters you will need a drift for each. Which is why some motors I take to the engineer's to get some jobs done!

Just like this? http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http:/...%26tbs%3Disch:1 http://japanesenostalgiccar.com/blog/wp-co...II-rt73l-01.jpg

Cheap oil filter... should have gone genuine! :D Weren't those new mains? There must have been something in the oilways. You going to tie it on the back of the motorbike and take it 50km into work to clean it?? :yes:

Well well.... http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Datsun-1600-Rally-c...=item1e5bbd952d The motor/gearbox/diff/brakes all come off some old 2L 200B or similar in a wrecker's yard and start from there! (I do have a spare 1600 motor/gearbox under the house, but I might need that!)

xmoht was that link meant to be a Celica? I was expecting a Gemini rally car! Mason, check out Brindabella Motorsport Club, they sell quite a few rally cars and someone from rollaclub down here can always take an initial look and lots of photos for you. http://www.bmsc.com.au/forums/ I've always built my rally cars, but I suppose it would have been cheaper to have bought the first one rather than pay new price for cages, belts and seats and all the gear. Buy something cheap and simple- Gemini or KE55 or similar because, sad to say, you are sure to roll it into a little ball! When you've done that a couple of times you can buy a car that will outlast your driving! :yes: Good luck! I love it, best times I ever had in my life.. 8years in South Africa and three or four in NZ... Datsun 1600s all the way!

Hang on Taz- So the shaft itself is pressed into the gearbox casing and the gear cluster (one-piece as I remember) runs directly on the shaft? I thought they had a tiny set of roller brgs at each end. I was quoted over $350 for layshaft bearings so I dropped the whole idea!

I don't think the balljoints need to be touched. You can leave the steering arm/LCA balljoint/steering balljoint all on the LCA when the strut comes off, so its much simpler than what you would expect. Throw some photos up Mason.

:looks for shit-throwing emoticon: :yes: So, are those going to be oversize pistons, which will sort out any problems with your over-honed bore and make the hone you've just bought redundant... Just toss the block in for a clean and a bore and you know its all done properly. What do you reckon on the oil pressure?

What's the story with the crank pulley do you think? There's a guy having trouble setting his timing with a light on here currently, it only runs on 30deg. Can the pulley lose the index to the crank? Rubber cored??

That earth is the main motor earth that carries the starter motor current back to the chassis I think. Once I moved the battery to the driver's side I put that striaght on the battery terminal.

Thanks Sloth- That's probably the only time someone has done that, so what you did will help the next person dropping a 7K in with SUs.

How did the SU angle end up? Vertical fuel bowls??

6 reverse gears and a Rolls Royce motor.... My uncle had one and he spun it in a contest to see who could drive it up the road backwards the fastest. It had a transfer case that turned all forward gears into reverses.. We stayed at a farm/motor camp in Lightning Ridge that looked just like this. All sorts of old vehicles hiding in the scrub.

Do you need two sender units? Throw the T-piece away and use one in the hole.

I have a jar of various carb linkages and stuff if you want a look through it... If the quadrant rotates the wrong way turn it upside down.

Supercharger would mean one big carb, so you'll have to decide before you start which way you're going to go. http://www.club-k.co.nz/Forums/viewthread.php?tid=14837

I think that is exactly what I'd expect from what you've done.... Spend about $4grand on the motor and it will run that exhaust beautifully, porting job, high compression, balance, twin Webers, extractors.. But bigger jets might cover it OK.

Not worth trying motorbike quads? Its been done nicely a couple of times so there are people to ask, it just needs the four manifold pipes making up. Other than that, I'm a Weber man myself but damm they're expensive! In NZ and South Africa you could get more parts for them, jets and choke and things. hence I'm on SUs...

Basically yeah, it will drip fluid everywhere. I don't like clamping them as it can fracture the rubber, but you could stick the little rubber cap on it that comes off the bleed nipple. Afterwards you'll have to bleed the brakes. At least putting shorter springs in is easier than putting long ones back in. Be careful with that top shock nut, don't strip the nut thread or rip the flat out of the top plate. good luck!

So it dies low down but then goes hard once the revs are up?? What carb and cam?? Stock?? Sounds like a lesson in why racing cars that only run from 5000rpm upwards run enormous exhausts... Oh- and what exhaust manifold??

If no-one has cut the bracket on the strut you will have to undo the brake lines there. Then cut a slot in the strut bracket so you can just slide the hose joint back in and clip it on later, so you never have to split the hose joint again. Stupid idea! The strut will come out easily enough and the spring compressors work fine. It will be much easier getting the cut springs off than trying to get the stockies back on! Mind your fingers! How did the rears go?

Check the fans... you never know.. Boss found an oven that had three fans in, all working nicely at low speed, but when you went to high speed two sped up and one ran backwards.... Straight from the factory, warranty job. Wiring was reversed in two wires to the 3rd fan. So- radiator blocked/no fins new thermostat is a dud water pump not pumping enough fans run backwards timing too retarded (don't forget that one) running too lean (had the exhaust manifold glowing redhot last week from that!)

Yeah, that's why I asked. The clutch release bearing will give that noise in neutral then it vanishes when you put a little pressure on it. Mine does that. But... I put a new clutch in the car when we fitted the manual gearbox a year back, and it also has a growl in all gears except 4th. That is very distinctive and occurs becasue 4th doesn't drive through the layshaft. I thought layshaft bearings but Rob reckons input shaft. When he does one of his boxes I'll do mine at the same time and see...