Evan G

i say theres a hole in the piston or its cracked

does it run? wash it all down and start er up and see where its coming from

were the oil come out? edit - we had a truck come into work looking like that. turned out to blow a hole in the piston causing ALOT of blow by and shooting out every gasket know to man kind

meatloaf in the oven :D

so your asking if anyone in melbourne knows any place in SA that paint match? :glare: :glare: :glare:

i think its maybe the other way? been ages since i tinkered with it. still kinda have a problem with my idle/idle jets it had 60/70 idle jets and i couldnt turn down the idle cause it was running that rich. so i leaned the idle screw so much it dropped it from 2000rpm to a lumpy 800rpm and sometime stalling so i changed it to 55/60 and idle would stay 1500. couldnt turn it down. leaned it down to 1000 wont turn down with the idle screw i tried 50/55 but it ran like a PIG. epic lumpy cam idle but it surged when driving shaking the car

FAQ ftw!

i had the same problem with my 5k when i swapped dissy. timing was set to around 20degrees buy the dissy but showed 40+ on the crank pulley. so all i did was point the dissy to number 1 cylinder and like 0 degrees. carefully pulled the dissy out and turned it back a tooth. (you'll need to turn the oil pump with a screw driver) or (push the housing of dissy down and get someone to crank it. it will slot in the oil pump drive when the cam turns. little dodgy but hey what ever works for yah) then crank it and turn the dissy till it starts and check the timing. trial and error ftw i assume you check the dwell before hand? if you can the dwell angle the timign will change aswell

worst fuel eco was 16L/100km on GOR this was with the 1600 tune. best was around 6/7L/100km to winton and back. SUPER LEAN FTW rebuilt 4k. torquey cam. little headwork. wide band FTW $150 bucks for the autometer gauge. $20 for the bung. another $20 for the sensor. Was a little f@$king around to tune. i went to my carby guy like 6 times to get jets. but yea its pretty straight forward

pretty sure its M18 X 1.25 for a 4k theres different sizes for different sumps

my 28/36 with vac secondaires. specs are 170 main air correction 190sec idle 55 pri 60 sec primary jets 150 sec 130 (i think) recently done 300km to 18L :D thats with some 160kph pulls so yea this is tuned with my o2 sensor/gauge lets us know if you need more info

what slo-030 said. 3/8 extention. uni and 14mm EASY RE!

Pm me, ill need a deposit for the vl alternator as I have to buy it from pick a part

carton of ASAHI or CC dry? ill even paint it for yah :dance:

wgmg - eastbound & down, sooo f@$king lame it isnt funny :glare:

12 point is perfect for making them round and slip. its only cause its made of super shit metal and 20 years of gayness. i don't have problems on newer vehicles and 12 points EDIT - also try smacking the head of the plug with a hammer a couple of times, this normally loosens everything up

no worries champ. anyone in vic want it done. give me the all parts and some cash and ill swap everything over for yahs

use a 6 point socket. i had the same problem with my filler plug on the seeda

gb - castrol ep80w diff - castrol hypoint long drain (epx90)

beer [CHECK] welder [CHECK] grinder [CHECK] yea id say it fits

:lolcry: BAHAHAHHAHAHAH

i didnt wash my hands after taking a piss, and a apprentice said to me "arent you going to wash your hands after ?" you think those trucker that hall around shit and tyres covered in roadkill have no germs on em?? fair enough before your eating. try doing valve clearances on a benz "E" is intake and "A" is exhaust! what a mind f@$k the first few times

my engine builder said its around $100 each bore to resleeve

how about resleeving the 4k block with thicker or 5k sleeves?