love ke70

i would say that its just had the standard pump wound up a fair wack, and until you get it up on boost theres not enough air to burn all the diesel going in. will need an aneroid fuel pump if its that bad, or wind the fuel back a bit, you likely wont notice much power difference but the black smoke should go away, its just running way too rich (black smoke = unburnt diesel) assuming you know that though.. the other option, as trev said, is ask me about LPG and diesel, its the shit. basic piece of shit units, but it works. you can keep the fuel lower, so off boost its not so smoky, and the LPG is boost referenced so you get more fuel when on boost. the LPG increases the efficiency of the burn of the diesel, and will eliminate almost all visible soot, your motor runs cleaner, you get more power and the fuel cost doesnt change, so its all a win. look into D-GAS, which is what I'm running, bought and installed myself, mounted tank, just got lines run and signed off on, claimed rebate and made a coupla hungie outta it. Other option is diesel gas australia, or diesel gas technologies, one of those. team green is shite, and theres a couple of other dodgy POS systems out there. and I'm tellin ya, none of them are very sophicticated :P

ill PM some pics to you tonight when i get home from the fab guys, lets just say, I'm having some second thoughts about getting mick to do the fab work, and i don't know about the motor at the moment either after what ive seen

I'm not happy with him at the moment anyway, my airbox has cracked, the mount fell off my exhaust, and where he flanged it where i had cut it in the engine bay, he only welded half of it. mightily unimpressed currently

haha I'm just shit stirrin, ive only seen mick once since you left, and didnt know you had til i said, wheres trevor was just a mani you had welded and i asked why it was wrapped, and was too hide some mediocre welding apparently

making them for who? you also can't weld :) spoke to luke today, did you email his this morning stixy?

mine passed a roadworthy like that, but i sorta lied and said it was covered by the blueplate :) i would talk to an engineer. its doable and worthwhile, but you could get a CA in and out with the box attached surely? i coulda got my 1g in and out if i got the front far enough off the ground but got the shits with it and got the grinder out

and your surprised? do you know how much works in a custom manifold? don't let ebay 300 dollar manifolds make you think thats what you pay for a good one. another bloke to talk to is luke at turboshop hes a good bloke and good prices.

i see, i hate it when people do that, but thats not limited to 4wd drivers. we often feel victimised by people in their v8s and zippy mobiles that don't wanna be stuck behind a "big slow 4wd" as trev said, mines a 4x4 work ute. patrol 4" lifted, next to no exhaust, mods to the shithouse, sway bars removed so it rolls like a prick, and i try to be a very cautious driver, so that i don't get reported, and so that 4wders don't get an even worse name. its usually the people in dead standards that are the real issue. and btw, driving a pajero while on your learners gives you no idea what its like to drive a big 4wd day to day, people are pricks, and its hard to see, so when i put my blinker on, give me some f@$king space to merge :)

do you drive a big 4wd? and as to seperate licensing, good luck :)

lay off the 4wds if they wernt in a 4wd they would be in some other piece of shit and drive just as retardedly. and i don't understand which side of you the 4wd tried to merge into, if two lanes changed to three, and you went across to the left, what, did he try and come across too? its fairly hard to see in some 4wds, utes are the worst culprit, especially when people don't set their mirrors right, have to set them phuckin wide to see whats beside you, then you can't see shit further back.

6boost will do it www.6boost.com

it wasnt that bad when i saw it, but yeah, i probably will. might put the other one back together and sell it as a hack or something. 2 door one side, 4 door the other ;)

wpn, minimum tyre size for an 8" is 225, i think 10 is 265, but I'm not sure of that, but yes, a 205 on a 10 would be stretched, but not insane. rb20 rolla, can you get the car street legal if you minitub it? i havnt seen one, ive never looked though, but as was said, 3tcgarage is the place to go ;)

because people are posting things in mechanical sections when they have no clue what they are talking about. if you don't know what your talking about don't try and give other people advice, it makes the forum look bad, it makes you look silly, and it makes it harder for the people that do know what theyre talking about to explain to the person who asked the question the actual answer.

its too hard to explain cause you make no sense. you can run a car with no valve cover, it just makes a f@$king mess. ie to identify a noisy lifter. as was stated, if the seals match, and nothing inside hits anything, then you will not have an issue. if the seals don't match it will piss oil everywhere and your life will become miserable and destitute

think i got some cut ones, will check, can have for 20

http://www.spectrumrubber.com.au/db.html try those guys, if you open the catalogue and painstakingly go through it, you might find what your after...

ps, yes the wiring was really that bad, but it worked :P

i don't have alot of good ones, and its nothing like it will look when its done this time around, but this is how it was, with the gas setup on it. then we went to the single turbo, which made life a bit easier hopefully hear from customs this week :P

before or after you open them? i hate it when u buy a flat one.

as was said, but it doesnt have to be that extreme. just be one of those muppets that can't set a foot position, so you accelerate, and decelarate, it gives you more combustion pressure and more negative pressure with the vacuum closing the throttle, pulls the rings against the bore.

just to add to whats been said, felix is pretty much on the ball, but i don't like running a cam in on a new motor, penrite sell an actual running-in oil. no additives basically, pretty cheap to. and why do you wanna run a 20w50 on a new motor? and the suggestion of a 60 grade, i don't understand... the increased pressure creates massive temps in the bearing, and continually running thick oil can cause sludging. you should not need to run thicker than a 10w40 on any motor thats healthy. anyone with further input?

just use the ae86 power steering arms, then you will be right

yes and no. i now own a 2 door and I'm importing the car whole... probably gonna register that, not sure. its quad headlight, 2 door for 700 US. forms are in at customs, so I'm waiting on approval to import, then i just need to pay for shipping and we are in action. praying the dollar comes back up, hit 85 wednesday, back to 82 now :) I'm gonna buy about 4 grands worth of tools for work and put them in the car, shipping company will secure and write an inventory for them all, and i may bring some tyres and whatever else, to make the shipping worth while. then once the car is here i will decide on either using that and doing the steering conversion, or leaving it LHD hehe, or cutting it up and using the shell i was going to originally. little steps....

are you speaking from experience? i did it without a drama... YMMV