love ke70

fixed it sticky slider on the left hand front caliper can now lock the fronts...oops hehe i think my main issue was there was alot more than one issue that needed solving. looks like i got them all. think i might go out and get new brake lines now aswell, that way everything is completely brand new....god damn evil car :D

its your call, all I'm saying is its pointless tuning it without boost, coz it will have to be all done again anyway. hopefully that isnt the issue anyway :D

alright... last night when i went to shut the shed down i stomped on the brakes a few times just with the engine off sitting still and they firmed up quite a bit so today, i did as i was told and bled the m/c, and bled hte brakes i tried doin the gravity way and they would start off dripping at a ok rate, but then would slow to like 5 drops a minute. no air tho. so i gave up and bled them the way i usually would they are pulling up quite nicely now, but the only issue left is that they still pull the to the right when you stomp on them so I'm going to call my rwc man and have a chat to him but any further suggestions would be greatly appreciated :D

try checking that you are making boost, if not its gonna be a waste of time and money goin to the dyno try disconnecting the intercooler piping somewhere, put your airfilter there and see if the charger blows air out. or the simple way would be to either A hook up a boost gauge, or B go for a drive with the intake breathing after the supercharger and the belt off the charger. this will show whether or not the charger is making any more power than the n.a motor anywho, i don't know if I'm making sense, but i hope i am. just don't wanna see you sent home from the dyno with a hole in your pocket all because of a problem you could have diagnosed sooner...

they could probably make them for you. they do alot of custom stuff don't they? in all realities i believe the shocks you use are much more important than your springs i went lowered kings in the rear of my 1g ke70 and paid 140...theyre decent enough, but i got koni adjustable shocks...and they are unbelievable! made a huge difference :D

F250 with 600 ci v8 on NAWS BRO hahaha i wish :D were the front and rear bars easy to fit or was there quite alot of fiddling around to make it all happen?

errrm whats the limit in school zones? 40? you can be booked for holding up traffic if driving too far below the limit. if you were doing 25 in a 40 thats 37.5% under the limit. which is the equivalent of doing just over 60 in a 100 limit.... sorry to burst your bubble but when they fail you they usually have a reason, even if it is stupid and makes no sense hey, i failed 3 times, twice i shouldnt have

with gravity bleeding how do you know when there is or isnt air coming out? everytime ive opened the bleeder it just dribbles out slowly, i wouldnt know if there was air involved or not :S or do i just drain thru a metric gallon of fluid and hope that all the air came out in the process? why do you say don't pump the pedal? the way we have always done it (and did this time) is to have the pipe into the bottle and open the bleeder, push pedal down, shut bleeder bring pedal up, open bleeder, bring pedal down, and so on and so forth until you can't see anymore air coming out with the fluid into the pipe... with this master cyl. i just wacked it straight on as i didnt realise it had to be bled until after the event...i wish they would include instructions.... do you need a special master cylinder bleeding kit? ive read two docs on google about and it seems you do...I'm not sure why it has to be done anyway, and not really sure how to do it :S :D gah I'm so over these f@$king brakes ;)

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c292/aro...d2/DSCN0338.jpg theyre the only rubber lines i know they look stretched but theyre not as bad as they appear :D i think the caliper needs twizzling once to give it some slack, not sure...ill do that someday.... and yes there is alot of fluid around, this is a result of the aforementioned compressed air ;)

oh, just read your edit, like i said, its all brand new so maybe i need to bleed all four again? i flushed all the lines with compressed air to get rid of any of the yucky shit in the lines *ducks for cover* so the entire system was empty from master cylinder to caliper...

yes yes i did bleed them in that order but like i said was having issues witht he front passenger one. it was just very small amounts of those really small bubbles you get. if anyone wants to come have a look or try bleed them for themselves and ill just do the pedal power feel free. me and dad have downs scores of bleeds though and this is the first to not work... at the end of the day, ive replaced pads, master cylinder and fluid all with brand new and am still having the same issue of a very low pedal that i can pump up really makes no sense and yes the calipers are on the right side, the bleed nipple is at the highest point it can be...

bollucks :D it seemed when i bled it that the front passenger side was never going to stop providing me with air, so i thought it may have been picking it up from the driver side so bled the drivers side and then redid the passenger side and no more air after a few pumps dunno if that means anything to anyone :S ;)

drum in disc disc brakes, handbrake drums

theyve past roadworthy before and ive never noticed the problem until recently raven. and they arnt stupendously bigger than stock... no air in lines, i bled them good and proper :D

hey guys, well I'm having some issues withthe brakes on the 1ggte ke70. basically what happens is that when you depress the brake pedal it goes down along way and the brakes arnt too sharp. if you then lift off and quickly back down the "pump up" and i get the stiff pedal i expect these are ra60 calipers on the front and alfa romeo on the rear, but i don't think that matters ive replaced: brand new master cylinder, brand new brake pads, brand new fluid, brand new front rotors and remachined rears there are no leaks and I'm sitting here scratching my head. i have no issues with them due to the compression braking, but i failed an rwc last week because of this and have since replaced the m/c, pads and fluid but theyre not much better however are better when i pump them up so... any thoughts?!? cheers, andrew :D

why set on whiteline?

random thought...is it actually making boost?

it does look neat doesnt it, hadnt noticed, been spending too much time calculating how much effort it will take me to match this :) id love to know where/how much for you can get one...

and don't forget you will then have to get the leaves in the rear reset if you want it to handle well as well as look decent sitting a bit lower remember that your shocks are probably more important than springs i use and highly recommend koni adjustables

agreed most motors have a certain amount of torque they will produce, and you can just move this torque curve up or down depending on your cam. more revs just means more wear. rather than making an engine rev higher to go faster why not reduce the rolling diameter of your tires :)

:) :y: irokin and trev in the same thread and no one has thrown a cream bun yet!!!! WTFBBQ!!!!

this is true. my mistake here i was trying to ignite the exhaust stroke :) hehe anyways, trev i don't see how it works

what size inner and outer hole do you want ill get some made for you

you fail to make a point a tacho's needle moves depending on the number of pulses per second (or part there of) its getting. if you tell it to expect 8 sparks per revolution of the crankshaft (in the case of setting it to a V8) but only provide it 4 sparks per revolution (coz its connected to your poopy K motor(which has 4 cylinders incase you didnt know mr new guy who hasnt introduced himself)) so if the tacho is thinking to itself 8 sparks = one revolution the poopy K motor has to do 2 revolutions to create these 8 sparks, which means the tacho will read half the RPM the motor is actually doing....

umm, it will read less 4 sparks per rpm if set to an 8 cyl motor its expecting 8 sparks per rpm so your poopy k motor is doing 6000 rpm. this equals 400 sparks per second a v8 at 6000 rpm would produce 800 sparks per second therefore the tacho if hooked to poopy K motor but set to 8cyl will read 3000 rpm when real engine speed is 6000.