jono1986

I've seen a couple of people on this thread say API engine maybe good but they quoted me 300-400 or even more for a 3k head rebuild and machine and that, went to Just Heads on port road they did it for 300. Also theres a guy in Pasadena that does Welsh plugs Graham Matthews, he ships them out round the world, really nice guy to deal with, caters for every welsh plug, even dish type for my 3k head Just Heads 642 Port Rd, Beverley, SA 5009 p: (08) 8268 3166 Graham Matthews 11 Ontario Ave, Panorama, SA 5041 p: (08) 8276 2066

Hey guys, i'm looking at getting some rims for my ke35 and was wondering what will just go on with no suspension changes or body changes, i've been reading a few posts and am getting confused with offset and all the other mumbo jumbo...please help

hey, i thought i'd add a little bit, found a list of cars that have the stud pattern 114.3, don't know how accurate it is but here you go: 4 X 114.3 DAEWOO MATIZ 4X114.3 38 DAEWOO TACUMA 4X114.3 DATSUN 240Z 70-85 4X114.3 66.1 DATSUN 260Z 70-85 4X114.3 66.1 DATSUN 280Z 70-85 4X114.3 66.1 FORD CAPRI 4X114.3 FORD TELSTAR <87 4X114.3 HOLDEN ASTRA <87 4X114.3 HOLDEN BARINA <94 4X114.3 HONDA ACCORD 90-01 4X114.3 HONDA LEGEND <91 4X114.3 HONDA PRELUDE 92-96 4X114.3 64.1 HYUNDAI ACCENT 94-00 4X114.3 35-45 67.1 HYUNDAI COUPE 95-01 4X114.3 35-45 67.1 HYUNDAI EXCEL 4X114.3 HYUNDAI ELANTRA 01> 4X114.3 35-45 67.1 HYUNDAI LANTRA 91-01 4X114.3 35-45 67.1 HYUNDAI MATRIX 01> 4X114.3 35-45 67.1 HYUNDAI S COUPE 4X114.3 HYUNDAI SONATA 93> 4X114.3 38-45 67.1 HYUNDAI TIBURON 95-01 4X114.3 35-45 67.1 INFINITI G20 91-96 4X114.3 66.1 INFINITI M30 90-92 4X114.3 66.1 KIA CARENS 00> 4X114.3 35-42 67.1 KIA CERATO 4X114.3 KIA CLARUS 96> 4X114.3 35-42 67.1 KIA MEGENTIS 01> 4X114.3 35-42 67.1 KIA OPTIMA 01> 4X114.3 67.1 MITSUBISHI COLT 4X114.3 MITSUBISHI CORDIA 4X114.3 MITSUBISHI LANCER EVO 1-3 4X114.3 MITSUBISHI GALANT 4X114.3 MITSUBISHI MAGNA <90 4X114.3 MITSUBISHI STARION 83-87 4X114.3 67.1 NISSAN 180SX S13 89-98 4X114.3 NISSAN BLUEBIRD FWD 4X114.3 NISSAN EXA N12 4X114.3 NISSAN MAXIMA <90 4X114.3 NISSAN PULSAR N12 ET TURBO 4X114.3 NISSAN PULSAR N16> 4X114.3 NISSAN SILVIA S13 88> 4X114.3 NISSAN SKYLINE R31 4X114.3 NISSAN SKYLINE R32 NON TURBO 4X114.3 NISSAN SKYLINE R33 NON TURBO 4X114.3 NISSAN TIIDA 4X114.3 PROTON GEN2 4X114.3 ROVER 600 4X114.3 35 64 ROVER 800 4X114.3 35 64 SUZUKI SWIFT <04 4X114.3 TOYOTA CELICA 76-85 4X114.3 60.1 TOYOTA CRESSIDA 85-88 4X114.3 60.1 TOYOTA SUPRA 79-82 4X114.3 60.1 VOLVO S40 96-00 4X114.3 35-42 67.1 VOLVO T4 4X114.3 35-38 67 VOLVO V40 96-00 4X114.3 35-42 67.1

I'm Jono 1978 KE35 coupe Cumberland Park http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=35534

Hey guys thought i'd put a small update in, I've finished rebuilding the motor and installed the gearbox the first time! yes i was reading an article about an hour after i installed it and one little word came up 'spigot'....i forgot the spigot bearing for the new manual setup, so after pulling it out again, breaking a few clutch cover plate bolts, and installing it again we got it running. Was running really dodgey, so we tweaked with the distributor and it started to sound better until the dome welsh plug blew out from the head :) , so after all the stuff ups we got it running and was driving around testing each of the gears. Had an ingenius bracket made up for the gearbox mount which consisted of an extension bar and some fencing wire :y: :wink: So after testing the gearbox i drove it to a mates work and he helped/did it himself a new bracket up....i think it might be strong enough... :y: I'll have more updates tomorrow or over the weekend as i finish the tunnel area....

hey guys, thanks for the replies went to sprint auto they didn't have them then repco then motor mate, toyota said they don't exist and it's a k head or something, then motor traders and they said they know of a guy Graham Matthews, gave him a call and got a brass dish one fits perfectly. oh and can't fit a C shape one in there not enough room

Alright well, my dads going to take the head off tomorrow and we're going to put it a new welsh plug and make sure its in properly, i'll give just heads a call aswell just to see if they put a new one in. Another thing is when i picked the plug up it was like a concave shape with no edges like a cup shape it was just pretty flat, if you need a photo i'll get one

Even with a brand new gasket??

hey guys, me and my dad have just finished rebuilding my 3k motor and was cranking it. It started a little bit but the timing was way off so we fixed that, and when we wanted to get the motor a bit warmer my dad revved it a little bit and all i felt was coolant all over my legs as the welsh plug from the head popped out. Now what could be wrong?? i got the head rebuilt from just heads do you think they would of put a new one in their or the old one just gave way, a bit out of my knowledge base so please help to what could of happened?? like i said it's a 3k from a ke35 1978

One of my bosses says a 304 will go in, with a little tunnel work. Another boss said an 18rg something would be awesome, then another boss said some sort of fiat motor that revs out a million revs or something. The lesson i learnt here, choose an engine and stick with it, everyone has a different opinion

likr kiahn said it's only 2 wires so not much could go wrong, Positive should go on the back of the plug and and negative on the side, which you've done. If you have a multimeter check the resistance of the earth from the socket to another earth stud somewhere (not the one you used for the plug itself). Also check the resistance of the fuse by pushing the probes into each wire coming out of it, but don't have anything plugged in to the socket otherwise you can damage the meter. if you don't have a multi meter you can get real cheap ones from dicksmith or jaycar, And it doesn't matter what size fuse you put it the holder just as long as there the same type (Blade type or other), but obviously not too bigger fuse otherwise you'll melt the wiring a 15A or 20A should do.

Thought i'd upload more photo's of 'the beast' :) Just of the front again This is the piston i was just 'looking' at, crack goes all the way through the shell and there is another one an inch to the right of it :) And some Upgrades 45mm Sidedraft weber, just going to try it out. pretty sure just going to get some made induction noise :rock: And this is an electronics/auto project i have going, its a Programmable ignition system, on the left is the "central unit" and on the right is the controller to program it, joins onto a 'power transistor' thing to run a big coil and you can also add a knock sensor but i'm not sure i'll install one yet, will upload lots of info of that later

You mean something like this And weld along the to flange edges with a strip of steel or something???

Yeah i thought i could do the same thing, but the mounting position underneath is about 100mm off. Just thinking of making a whole new cross member, will upload pics later today.

Hey, thought i'd upload some pics of a project that i've started. I bought the car from a mate for $400 and it didn't start when i first went to pick it up cause of a dodgey starter motor, they got it rebuilt and started first turn of the key. Had some exhaust noise and economy wasn't that great, so about 30 bucks later it was running sweet. During the whole time though it had an oil leak or leaks, so i thought i'd pull it apart and do a gasket and seal change, and also do a auto to manual conversion. Picture shows some damage to the door, the previous owner's daughter left the door open and it rolled into a tree :) , but 1 hour and a block n tackle all fixed :( Oh and this is when it first got to my house, so it wasn't clean yet will upload more photo's later, just got the motor back together and back in the car, but of course the gearbox mounts don't line up at all.....so will have to make something up

Go to the home page and half way down you'll see a rolla club torch, click on the link below that (was going to post the link but wasn't working)

Don't get it rebuilt, unless you have an auto electrical mate it will cost you an arm and a leg. Just go to an auto elec place and ask for a rebuild kit for that starter and pull it apart, easy (done them before).....the reason i'm saying this is, cause when i bought my ke35 the starter motor went and the previous owners spent 200 bucks getting it rebuilt. When it should of only cost 50 bucks or a bit more....

The map sensor has to have an output voltage between 0-5v and since the max pressure of my engine will be about .35 bar it will be easier to use a 1 bar sensor, commonly used in VN-VS commodore. Visiting U-pull-it tomorrow to see what i can get. Oh and taz-rx it has to come with a plug, but other than that its very cheap for a Map sensor

how did you set it up with no vacuum advance, just advanced the timing a bit or?

thanks for your replies guys, got the manifold today and it has the output for the brake boost, but my leading hand was saying something about not putting them together or something. Something about the different sizes, but from that other thread he just uses a t-piece that has both sizes on it...

hello, i have searched 28 pages of the forum and can't see anything on how to hook up vacuum advance on webers. I have a 45DCOE13 and about to mount to my car but don't know where to hook up the advance i have searched google and the only thing i have found is a "Vacuum take-off cover", is this what i'm looking for, or is it taken from the inlet manifold (don't get the manifold til tomorrow so)....

Nuh it says to set the distributor at 0 deg's, then the system will go from there. otherwise idle would be 0 deg's or whatever the ditributor is set at.....so if its at 20 deg's that means that idle would be -12deg's. And yeah you can mount an Sensym MAP sensor to the board but Jaycar don't supply them (the irony). reading the instructions in depth at the moment so will comment a bit more later

Thanks cameron that is exactly what i'm looking for, the kit comes with a coil driver (not pictured). The instructions show how to dis-engage the mechanical advance and also how to hook up a MAP sensor to the system, oh to by a new MAP sensor it's about 150bucks or over, but i'll probably just borrow one from u pull it. And Philbey what do you mean "setting to a particular timing point as well?"

Hey guys, thanks again for your replies. i was going to write a whole lot more but have an eventful day with the head (of the motor :) ) So instead i uploaded a picture of the control system and the hand controller. Oh and is using a weber going to change anything with the vacuum advance??

hey, i'm doing a conversion right now and have seen some difference's with the actual mount itself. Is there a totally different rubber/mount between the gearbox and the crossmember than the original auto box??? Oh and if you haven't already found out, from what i did today the speedo cable gets mounted to the opposite side from the auto