jono1986

so is there a difference with a ke30 2 door and a 2 door ke35, or are they the same thing.....or is the ke30 2 door the one with a pillar??

True totally forgot about them, his other posts suggests he has a 2 door ke30, which means sealed beam....in that case replace them with semi sealed replacements, can get them from sprints for like 20 dollars each or something, not including globes :P

You sure its just not a blown globe, High and low beam are two seperate filaments. Cause if one side is working fine, it means the circuit is getting power.

Hey, apart from the performance parts inside the engine, i've done a full 3k rebuild as well....and i'm thinking more power...is a 5k a direct bolt in? Like mounts are the same and gearbox will line up?

try the tapping thing while someone has it in the crank position, if it starts you have an open circuit somewhere. Don't know about your car but for a 3k starter rebuild the previous owners paid 200 bucks, so take it out and get a rebuild kit from an auto electrical joint and do the rebuild yourself, otherwise you could get a second hand one, but because of the design of some k series exhaust systems it will need re-doing anyway.

I think i spotted 3 ke20's or ke10's on the esplanade around lunch time all looked real nice

There was a post a little while ago http:// http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-277263304.htm

How much did you pay for the tacho, cause mine was 40 bucks and it's accuracy is +/- 100 revs. thought of adding a capacitor or a resistor in to smooth the signal out but haven't tried yet.

Spotted a red ke35/55 on west terrace around 6 last night, also spotted a cream (i think) ke70 on west terrace with a racing stripe on it

good that you got them off, another lubricant penetrating spray is INOX, really really good stuff.

So are axle bearings different to wheel bearings? cause my rear end is starting to make noise and was just going to do the diff oil and the wheel bearings

Well i think you'd be only be able to go to a parts store or a wreckers or even a genuine toyota place but they would be expensive that way, you could put up a 'wanted to buy thread' here, but i don't know how successful you'd be.

Oh hey, i thought i'd be the only one to say welcome. Don't know why people would abuse you over a simple question, try sprint auto's, if they can't supply them just get one from a wreckers. And its better to have one in there as well.

No E35's or 55's?

Lol nuh man...that was just in the instructions...i was going to fit the ignition system on the weekend but stuffed up the input voltage setting for the coil driver....and after bending the power transistor once then again it broke, so now i need to get another one, i'll post up how it goes soon. Also looking at making my own injection system but have to research a bit first

Awesome, thanks man.

Where exactly does the vacuum guage go? Me and my dad rebuilt the bottom end and i got a company to do the head...and i did the carby

Hey man, i'm not to sure about tac welding, but for an electronic ignition kit that i've got puts a washer in there to stop the weights from moving

Well actually thats a bit interesting cause i got the whole motor rebuilt, including the head but you say worn valve guides. The reason i say thats interesting because it blows a little bit of smoke after its been sitting overnight which is a sign of the valve guides, which makes it even more interesting when i got a complete head rebuild...might try the vacuum guage

Hey guys, got a problem with my 3k at idle (well i think its only at idle), basically i've rebuilt the motor about 2500km ago and just rebuilt the carby on sunday because of flat spots and hesistation and stuff. But even before the rebuild (of the carby) the engine doesn't seem to idle smooth at all, a mechanic said the 3k is a really smooth motor and can run down to 400rpm but mine barely does 800....the rebuild was completely stock (so no bigger cam or pistons) the only thing i can think of is the timing chain is 1 tooth out or something.....and when i say "i think its only at idle" i mean i don't think its producing as much power as it should and yes i know 1.2L is not a power machine when stock but still something is a bit weird, any thought?

Just thought i'd say CTRL + F to search a whole page for single letters or words JiP

Jeez another awesome place in queensland....damn it DAMN IT TO HELL :blinks: :lolcry:

No, i had it so you have to use the key to unlock the steering and also apply power to the circuit. The drawing i've got is in autoCAD, so i'd have to do another one in paint, let me know if your interested and i'll whack one up But i mean, with any early corolla the plug for the ignition is just behind the plastic cover, so if someone actually wanted to steal it they could anyway

Straight away i'm going to say use relays, seen a setup on a VW where they ran the feed for the acc, on and start through a switch and the wires kept melting off. I did a push button start on my pajero with a either a couple of switches for acc and on and another switch for start. What car are you doing it to, cause when i do my e35 i'm going to put a seperate acc switch cause the original doesn't have an acc position just an ignition position. I've got a wiring diagram that will help you, will upload later today

I don't know much about worked, but after telling people i'm putting a 45dcoe sidedraught on my 3k, they said i should of done the cam and done a port polish or something like that, like a bigport.