jono1986

If it's not the battery, get someone to knock the starter motor with a 2 by 4 (plank of wood), that will tell you if the started motor is gone. it could actually be a 50 50 with the starter or the battery, depends on the age of both.

I've heard guage works could help you with that, or you could get a speedo corrector from jaycar for about 55 bucks, just needs assembly

Another option is the Jaycar programmable ignition system, which allows you to program the advance curve in and can be used to limit rpm aswell (i think). The whole system is about $200, with optional knock sensing.

I guess from my point of view i can't have an opinion as i haven't been on a rolla club cruise yet, but when i went on a tribute to brock cruise a couple of years ago the organisers were very assertive on the rules of the cruise.

How long will it take for them to start targeting all car clubs though, like this Barnes guy said "nights were about "showing what your car is made of"". Which kinda makes it seem like all car cruises are about is showing off and acting like hoons, it will take this one scenario to stuff everyone around.

What colour are the wires coming out of the distributor?

I was thinking the same thing, but someone on here told me the 5k would be the better option, i mean i would be coming from a 3k though. I was thinking the 7k but heard they were a bit pricey, everything bolts up except the sump on the 7k is deeper so i think you have to mod the front cross member to fit it in. Oh and i think the exhaust manifolds are slightly diffferent, not how they bolt up but the actuall design of the flow, but if you have extractors you don't have to worry about that stuff.

I'm actually getting a similar sound coming from around the distributor area aswell, the only thing i can think of is when i had the engine apart we lightly wet sanded the oil pump end plate thing as it had grooves from wear. So i'm thinking that it could be no tolerance there anymore or something like that

If you have power at the back of the unit, it means everything is working fine, how do the terminals look in the plug, melted/corroded?? If someone has put to higher wattage lights in the plug can melt or damage the terminals

Mate if the dash isn't cracked, armour all it or put a cover on it, i can't think of anything worse in the interior to a cracked dash

Is that blackwood dyno a good place to get a carby looked at and tuned, I recently got mine done somewhere and for some reason their work was undone after about a week. And are they good with pricing and things? Just to let you know I live just south of the CBD.

After market ones can work in several different ways. Some of the new ones or replaceble ones even have a seperate output for your Warning light, where as the early ones would just be in parallel with the output of the flasher unit. And the flasher unit is connected in series with you switch and not seperate for each side, in other words there's not 2 outputs of the flasher unit only one, which gets directed by the stalk. Just my 2 cents, but i'd check all your globes for good earths and check for corrosion aswell.

Spotted a clean yellow ke30 on south rd from Flinders til sprint auto's at about midday

come on......seriously...the least desirable? I know i'll never make the money back and based on that i won't sell it (and that i love it, except for the carby), and i never bought the car too restore it.

Modifying yes i know, you won't make what you spent, but rebuilding/restoring you will see a gain on the original cost of the car but still not as much as you spent. I guess what i was saying was, how much have people sold and bought them for and what condition they were in

So it heaps hard to say "oh this car sold for this much and this was the condition" everyone's heard that line, if you don't have anything helpful to say keep it to your F$%#IN self So i bought my ke35 for 500 with an exhaust leak, not much rust, damage to the front 1/4 panels and doors, automatic with a couple of hundred thousand k's....geee that was so hard, i might need to see a doctor

I understand what you guys are saying, i guess we're interested in what they have sold for in the past and what condition they were in. Whether or not you want to do a project on it or not, is a question on how much your going to put into it and if your likely to keep it after finishing it. That's my problem as i have rebuilt the motor, done a gear box conversion, front brakes, bought panels and all that, getting this far i'm thinking i'm not going to be able to make what i spent so where do i go from here, you know.

http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=40109

I'm actually really interested in knowing as well, as i have rebuilt my motor and done other stuff, but the carby is F#@%IN me off. So i've thought about selling but don't know what for.....

Instead of re-posting a new topic, Does anyone know what brand a ke35 fuel sender is (like VDO or something else)???

Nice work.....too make it even better i'll post this http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=35904 just to have in the same topic

I'm not sure about the two speed, but you have to block of the kickdown vacuum hose, i think as well that the reverse switch is just a switch between power and the lights whereas the manual box switches earth to the lights. so you might need to put a relay in

http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=35904

Check out the for sales thread man, i think there's about 3-5 for sale on the first page