jono1986

I don't know how people are feeling tonight but be prepared to get abused, first off use the search function and you'll find heaps of info on that, if you want brand new twin sidedraft webers i mean i'm not veteran at this but you'll be paying over a grand i reckon. I got told recently if your not going to fully mod the car put a 32/36 downdraft weber on it everyone does it and they go quiet good. I've pretty much got the same car, except mines a '78 ke35, done the rims, exhaust, rebuilt the motor, tomorrow i'm putting bigger brakes on. If you want to go down the weber path i have a 45 sidedraught here with a manifold that i might be selling soon, but you'll be looking at about 370.... Here's what mine looks like at the moment....

What brand is the tacho, cause the $40 one that i have for my car jumps up and down about 150 rpm and also revs 200rpm higher than it really is.

Did you find out the values, or can we get an update on this?

Before you get abused, goto the knowledge base/FAQ at the top of the screen and scroll down to OIL pump. Also might want to edit your original post to include what engine it is, i don't think the speaker wire will affect it, its only an electronic signal (unless there is resistance in the circuit)...oh and it sounds like its within specs

i remember 4wdriving with my pajero and the amount of times it went under 500rpm and still crawled along. Good torque and likes to rev, not good fuel economy though...but then again if your doing a conversion fuel consumption isn't really a priority

don't know why you quoted me there, you can get a custom kit from supa cheap auto i think, just run it straight to the battery. the one in my 35 is done like that, and cause i take my gps out my car the battery won't go flat.....

ummmm.....'laughing out loud' is in order there i reckon

Ah...i think he might of made a mistake in his original thread that's alright...just bored that's all.......if you've got the 3.5l v6 get a twin turbo kit off a GTO, i mean if you can find one.....

The FTO came in a twin turbo, F#@#...actually are you guys talking about the GTO cause that came out with a 3 or 3.5 litre NA or twin turbo version. what kind of manufuator makes a twin turbo front wheel drive car, thats like making death itself. As for the V6 in the GTO, since it's the same motor in the pajero, i know from experience that they chuck out plenty of torque. And power output for the motor i had which was like the base V6 (SOHC 3.0L) had 91kw's at the wheels, with worn rings.....

Haha i thought i might look on drive.com for the 308 and there's more them for sale than ke35's, how strange.....

OK, you kinda answered my question there, like i said in the original topic i know i'll need sensors, and analogue to digital convertor's for things like fuel and water temp and things like that. From where i used to work, the dashboards on new buses utilise a CAN-bus system and you need the ecu, but if the commodore dash doesn't have a CAN system then all the inputs to the dash are pretty much just from the sensors but change from analogue to digital via the ecu, thus meaning i can make my own ecu to convert the signals from the sensors to be able to be recognised by the dash....and is only a question at the moment. My interest will grow stronger once i start making my own pcb's and stuff.

Nuh different engine...not so simple

Hey guys, I have a question that might be easy or hard to answer, a bit unsure. My question is that if you take a dash cluster out of a car (an electronic type) do you need the cars ECU to run it, or can you create your own electronic unit to except inputs of the new vehicle and convert them to match the new cluster. So say if i want to put a late model Commodore dash into an old school car, can you do it with a custom made ecu, and yes i know you need sensor's and stuff just need to know if the actual cluster needs to be matched to the ecu? Thanks in advance guys.

This is like the second topic on this in 12 hours, and it looks poo......needs to be lower and better wheels, if it had the eleanor wheels on it then it would be spoogetastic

I was going to get one, how tall are you, cause the seating position is heaps weird and the one i was going to get had a leaky injector. And was told by heaps of people to avoid them, are you looking into getting into four wheel driving?

ummmm....use this as a guide just for now, tomorrow i'll do it in the daylight and get more exact answers

ummm....the bottom of the window is roughly 980 and also the top of the window where it angles down is about 580mm from the back corner....update VVVV

i can also get the length of the base of the window if you want

Hey don't know if this helps but from the back corner to the top back corner is 340mm and from that same corner following the window all the way down to the front is 1120.....i'll draw a pic

Have you done a carby rebuild before? Cause mine had flat spots, so i decided to rebuild it. Went all good but for some reason now it just stutters when i put my foot down hard or it feels like the high speed jet is blocking the fuel only sometimes. I'd seek out a specialist to rebuild it, would only cost maybe a 100 with a tune and all that. To be honest with you, and this is just an opinion i wouldn't bother with upgrades with it being auto, just having an auto your losing power already. When i first got my car is was running dodgey, but after about 50 bucks i'll be able to drive it for ages.

So does anyone else actually own a 35?, cause i don't see many on these threads

how bout a 7k, or is that when the gearbox changes and mounts and things?? from a 3k....

That's slightly more complicated, the simplest thing i can think of is dirty contacts in the light switch itself, or they are loose. I guess checking the continuity of the door switch wire to the light would be another thing to check.

LMFAO......

ah...from that you've said that you've replaced both the front door switches, yeah? when he installed them did he give them a good clean, i mean between the switch and the body, and that light is controlled from ALL the switches, so i'd check the back ones as well. Just take all the switches out of the car and see if it turns off, the switch works by putting earth onto the wire at the back of the switch, if the globe doesn't turn off then, you'll have a short to ground somewhere in the circuit. But in my experience 90% of the time it's the switches.