jono1986

Nice info, but he said it has a 5k so it would be presumed internal type regulator. And rainwarrior, have you installed anything, or has anything been installed that isn't stock? Unless you have to jump start it all the time thus pointing towards the alternator not charging therefore, yes your regulator could be the problem. Oh and after actually reading all the post, i accidently skipped one but still presumed to be internal type

Oh sorry, yeah replace it. If it's a bosch type you can just unscrew it and get a change over, auto electrical places carry them and will sell to you over the counter.

Actually that was another thing, it came with a compliance sheet and sticker, but was filled out for the original car (a toyota Camry...i was young....). Is it still compliant with this car or does it depend on age of car and stuff like that. This is like it, but instead of red it's silver:

Hey guys, I have a 78' ke35 and was wondering people's opinions on sport steering wheels. I've had a Isotta steering wheel for about 5 years and just fitted it to the rolla, but don't know if it's to 'try hardyish' or does it make it more acceptable to 'window shoppers'. It feels a bit better when driving but not sure if I'm coming off as a tool or not.....

Yep, get a regulator, that's the only thing that controls the amount of 'voltage' that comes out of the alternator.

Man that dash looks awesome....i want one.......

The only thing i can think of is go to a dealership, otherwise find another loom cut the plugs off and solder them onto yours.

You can talk him down a little bit as well, just remember someone would of traded it in for a couple of hundred so you could probably get 15% or little more off

oh cool, that would be the signal output, so that would go to earth of your coil. Like this one:

By thread do you mean plastic wire? In the photo it shows a plastic gromet on the dizzy where the wire comes out, does your phone have a camera?

Alright i took some photo's; This first one is of the rubber at the bulkhead, for adjustment (i think): This one shows where the cable passes through the Block/Bellhousing, which holds the sheath in place: This one is the same as above, but it also shows where it has been connect onto the clutch fork: And this one is of where the wire comes out of the dizzy: I can get a photo of the pedal spring if you want as well.

Other than a Vac line, there should be electrical wires coming from it, there should be a little contraption to hold the sheath down at the gearbox. I'll take some photo's of what i mean, cause i aint that great at explaining things.

Does your dizzy have 1 or more wire coming out of it? All a coil needs is an ignition feed and a earth signal either from your dizzy or from an ignitor. And contrary to what people are saying, some dizzy's do come with external ignitor's. And my clutch cable was loose when i put it in at first, at the bulkhead in the engine back you have to undo that rubber thing and pull the cable throughto tension it up. Unless your talking about the spring on the either the pedal or down at the gearbox, do you remember fitting 2 springs to the system?

That's about as bad as the welsh plug blowing out a rebuilt head on my 3k, i feel the pain man

Ah... i thought maybe the sender would have had an inbuilt W/L output for older type dashboards

Maybe G = Gauge, W = Warning light. Check the resistance between the two wires and earth with the engine off and then when it's running; the W one might go straight to earth e.g. for the warning light and the G one will be variable resistance..........MAYBE

Just some things that i can think of, something's happened to your float in your carby to mess that up, with the front end the steering rod thingy would of jump a couple of teeth in the steering box thingo. Also jack the car up and see if the wheel wobbles, could of bent it so when you turn its on a bit of an angle which might cause this 'tripping over it's own foot'. And also i don't know how other people might feel but it might be easier if you spoke in a more technical fashion when it comes to mechanical problems. Just my two cents....

There's a couple of ways of doing it, i found this not so long ago http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?s...638#entry431420 which tells you a far bit. Another way of doing it is getting a hall effect type sensor of another car and retro fitting to your speedo cable much like that link. Or you can put magnets on the prop shaft and get a speedo calibration system to get the correct speed...all of these are a bit complicated. The easiest way is taking it to a guage specialist and have them look at it.

They sell them from time to time in the for sale section, the cheapest upgrades are like elec dizzy's which aren't a huge upgrade. ummmm you know what your going to be paying more than 300 of any decent upgrade, but i don't know much this is just from what i've seen. although you can get 5k motors from 250 so......

32/36 downdraft weber

Look in the SA recommended list, there's a guy that sell welsch plugs cheap.....

the globe in the middle?? Its the glass thing with little silver caps on each side, it just pops out. Take it to an auto place and they will you give a replacement

I might be able to help, if you take a picture of it

Hey guys, I got a really stupid question. Basically i got my car (a 3k) tuned a little while ago and it was running pretty good, after a couple of weeks it started to run dodgey....like it stalls everytime i stop after a bit of racey driving, would have big flat spots under heavy throttle use, and kinda misfires. So earlier today the oil light had taken a little bit longer to turn off after starting the car, so i put about 200ml's of oil in and all of a sudden it's running fairly decent again. Does the oil affect engine performance that much? I know that the head (even after being rebuilt) has worn valve guides, so that's why my oil dissappears everytime i start the car, but is it the low oil that's causing power loss or other things like maybe compression loss or other reasons? Oh it's been fully rebuilt from the bottom end up to the carby, apparently the bearings were gone in the carby so the butterflies were worn. So the guy replaced all that and for some reason drilled out the jet.

Spotted a yellowy ke35/55 parked at mitsubishi early today, looked clean