jono1986

The comfort shocks are 15% aren't they, the next ones up are 30%, thats all I know about inserts. People talk about changing the fluid and everything over, but don't know much about that

You can get straight changover units from places like sprint auto's, i got some for my 35 for 20 bucks each. whacked some of those super white lights in them and now they're about 7 million times better. Providing you get your headlights aimed....

Thats not a wiring diagram, thats some sort of electrical block diagram that looks useless. Put you test light into the end of the cigarette plug and see if its on all the time, if its ignition fed just use that, the acc wire that goes into the radio doesn't suck any current so no need to change fuses or something. If someone has a wiring diagram i can tell you the exact colour wire you can use and where it is.

Take it to battery world and they can do a test on it to see if the alternator is charging, yes a voltmeter will show 13-14v but it can still fail under load. They will run a load test and all that, another thing is the battery in my car was doing strange things, it would start easy and at the end of the day i wouldn't be able to start it, even after 3 minutes of driving it wouldn't restart. batteries can be very weird, do you know how old the battery is, if a battery has been drained then charged then drained and then charged again a few times it will damage it and you'dd have to replace it. If you take it to battery world and they say its the alternator, rebuild it yourself, cost me 25 bucks or something to do mine by getting the parts from an auto electrical workshop. After you've fixed it i suggest changing the main earth lead over to a new one, charges better, starts better and charges better. Hope this helps Oh and another test is to test the voltage at the battery, then at the alternator if there is anything more than 0.5V difference between the two, replace the wiring from the alternator to the battery

Got the same wheels, and had to get the same nuts, the one with about 20mm of metal before the nut. When you go to the wheel place makesure they give you the washers aswell, otherwise that metal bit will be too long and hit the hub and not tighten the wheel on.

Can you buy the girlocks from sprint auto's or something, or is the only option of getting them from another car?

A full engine rebuild fixed my ticking sound |blink| and +1 for thicker oil, Castrol have a 25-50w sport edge stuff. Works awesome, even reduced tapet noise on my pajero, and a guy at work swore by it increased oil pressure in his MG

Well the window rubber fitted perfect, unfortunately though you can't get the original strip so you have to use this other stuff they can supply, looks a bit dodgey cause the bead is round and the corners are flat. The picture below shows what i mean:

Just a question, are swaybars worth it for the 200 or so you pay for them?

Wow...i wish my 35 body was like yours when i bought it, would save so much work. Oh and another difference is the front brake calipers are different from a 35 to a 55. 55 calipers are skinnier and bigger braking area. found out the hard way when i tried to fit dragways without a spacer ;)

Not the right section (i think), but saw a ke30 for sale on south road just south of the goodwood road intersection. he's selling it for 1500 and has had only 1 owner, didn't stop to have a look but looked pretty clean

The Resistor across the ol air flow meter fooling the ecu into thinking that the air is always cold or something, 40% more power, but 50% more fuel effiency. I like the way they sell it though, the resistor is free but the installation manual is 40 bucks or something ;)

If you end up removing the original brakes i'll take them off your hands in a jiffy, will pay for postage....

You just need someone to start a topic about getting a holden as a daily and you'd have all the same comments on both topics. See a Holden guy thinks properly....

ummm...those pictures are fairly unlcear but if it doesn't work with any of the doors open it could be the globe, if it works with the passenger door then the switch needs looking at. If its a normal globe and not a festoon you need to rotate it anti-clockwise to get it out. It doesn't really happen with interior lights but it could have corrosion on the metal part so just keep working it back and forth.

It has a dipstick, mine was on the left side of the engine close to the fire wall (looking at the car from the front)

Hey mate, don't know where your located, but i got my front windscreen rubber and that strippy thing for my ke35 from Rare Spares on south road, i'm pretty sure they supply all the other rubbers aswell

Hell Yes...W16 it up...might need to shave off the turbo's to fit though.....they make a W12 aswell....

I'm pretty sure you can get an aftermarket switch that has a built in intermittent, my ke35 doesn't have the intermittent so i was just going to put a seperate switch somewhere, should be a kit available from jaycar or dicksmith or something. Might look into that and actually give you some helpful advice :dance:

Yeah my first idea was mixture, i mean under heavy acceleration it smokes but thats pretty normal for a carby isn't it? And we did mess around with the carby settings after the rebuild to increase the idle speed, but may have accidently adjusted the mixture screw. I have the manual will try tune it tomorrow

alright, i recently rebuilt my 3k. Did the whole lot the head, the rings, big ends and all the seals. The thing is every time i start it after it's been sitting for a while it blows a little bit of smoke, but it didn't do it straight away. The car has done about 800km's since the rebuild and can't think of anything. I forgot the colour of the smoke will update tomorrow but just wanted to see what people might think it is, a guy at work said it could be the valve guides, but that kinda means that the place that rebuilt the head didn't do them...please help....oh and i don't think it matters but i'm running this thicker oil stuff 25-50w i think

Hate to steal the thread a little bit, but with this fuel cut off solenoid it stops fuel from entering the engine when the igntion is switched off. My question is i'm about to put a weber carby on my 3k, and it doesn't have a fuel cut off solenoid, do i need to bother if the mixture, idle and timing are all correct?

What year sportivo is it? If its a later model, and you haven't already looked into it, you should look into a workshop with a scan tool. Then they'll be able to test most of the electrical and test actuators and stuff like that. Otherwise try another ecu and see if that works, i mean if you can find one

Not in a bad way though, i mean the exhaust?

Is it a 2 door coupe? really keen to shotgun the doors