thomo Posted December 14, 2006 Report Posted December 14, 2006 struck this one a few times in a few threads so here it is for anyone doing a search the k motors have all that carb and manifold hanging all the way out there on the side of the motor, this streches the studs and makes them work loose (very simple so far, yes?) when your car starts running rough or missing, get a tin of WD40, carbi clean, or airostart spray it all over the INLET manifold where it joins the head (flamable liquid people, no hot exausts please) if your idle goes up, you have a leak and the motors drawing the whatever you sprayed through the leak instead of the air that was making it miss if the idle stays the same, the problems somewhere else Quote
Teddy Posted December 14, 2006 Report Posted December 14, 2006 How to find a manifold leak. 1) get a spray bottle (like hairdresssers use) 2) set nosel to burst mode (like a single line of water type thing, not "spray" 3) Fill to top with water 4) turn car on, get somoene to hold at.. 2000 ? - just a few revs. 5) start at front of motor, and individually soak around each manifold port with water gun (as best as possible, given the K manifolds designs) 6) when motr starts to coff and splutter like a dog, try and concentrait on that area. Pin point where it is. 7)you've either found the leak, or u havnt ;) :) Quote
billygoat Posted December 14, 2006 Report Posted December 14, 2006 One of the techs were I work used a piece of garden hose and listened through it for where the air was gushing in worked quite well. Quote
Medicine_Man Posted December 14, 2006 Report Posted December 14, 2006 Best way is like what Teddy suggested with water.. Quote
Des Posted December 14, 2006 Report Posted December 14, 2006 My mates 202 had a leak in the exhaust manifold and at night when he reved it and the side of the motor would light up yellow from flames coming out of the head. Quote
tas_ae71 Posted December 15, 2006 Report Posted December 15, 2006 i think its a good idea to have these sorts of this posted amd made stickys, cause its a very common problem for people to have there car running rough, just hope people actualy do enough research to actually read threds like this.... my ke is just developing a miss, notice it on idel, seems to have got worse over the last few days (or maybe i just hadent noticed it before) mite try this.. also just brought a plug tester seem you put the electrode if it on the lead (you don't get the shock ;)) it is surpost to light up brighter the higher the current.. mite go try it right now..... :) Quote
keith Posted December 18, 2006 Report Posted December 18, 2006 hi mate if you have an exhaust or in let leak check if there warped and true if they are a bit not too much try putting 2 gaskets on and rgv selastic high temp. cost you about 20 dollars and the hassle of taking it off again Quote
keith Posted December 18, 2006 Report Posted December 18, 2006 mainly for tas_ae71 but every one as well. don't need a plug test for a car with OUT a ecu you can just hook a spark plug up the leed and let the electrod or thread rest on the engine. on the metal for an earth. (not a good idea if you have an ecu). if your plugs look bad replace them only $2.50 each Quote
thomo Posted December 19, 2006 Author Report Posted December 19, 2006 water doesnt compress so I'm a little hesitant to spray it anywhere it may get into a cylinder, i've been stuck with a few rebuilds thanks to a cyl full of water and a rod with nowhere to go but sideways! but hey, it works i guess Quote
flat out Posted December 23, 2006 Report Posted December 23, 2006 iv herd running a bead of oil allong the top of the manifold will find leaks, dunno if it works, just herd it Quote
Trev Posted December 23, 2006 Report Posted December 23, 2006 water doesnt compress so I'm a little hesitant to spray it anywhere it may get into a cylinder, i've been stuck with a few rebuilds thanks to a cyl full of water and a rod with nowhere to go but sideways! but hey, it works i guess A mist of water is alot different to a flow of water, They even have water injection systems for cars so it can't be all that bad: Aquamist Introduction Aquamist is ERL's latest generation of water-injection equipment. The main function of these systems is to suppress detonation caused by high temperature and pressure developed within the combustion chamber when the effective compression ratio has been taken beyond the auto-ignition point by either a turbo or a supercharger. Water, with its high latent heat content, is extremely effective for controlling not only the onset of detonation but also the production of oxides of nitrogen in the modern leanburn engines. ERL's latest products are designed with great care to ensure each system meets the highest standards of both electronic and mechanical reliability Quote
irokin Posted December 24, 2006 Report Posted December 24, 2006 water doesnt compress so I'm a little hesitant to spray it anywhere it may get into a cylinder, i've been stuck with a few rebuilds thanks to a cyl full of water and a rod with nowhere to go but sideways! but hey, it works i guess Petrol doesn't compress either... :ninja: Or oil or...any liquid Quote
Raven Posted December 24, 2006 Report Posted December 24, 2006 Evaporation or burning is the key here :ninja: Quote
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