Jump to content

Sr20det Into Ke55 Coupe And Engineering Laws


Osmosis6176

Recommended Posts

Members dont see this ad
  • Replies 54
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i don't understand what you mean i tried putting it in and it didn't fit. In which way doesn't it fit. If you know someone who know's how to weld its lot easeir then you think. I've got one in my ke30 and the hardest thing so far has been fitting commodore breaks and changing from cable to hyrdaulic clutch. I'm not gonna lie it isnt cheap even with calling in favours from people because all the little things add up like buying the motor, gearbox clutch master cylinder, new disks, fuel, ecu wiring etc....but i you need a hand at all just ask and i'll get some pics to ya

 

cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

tried puttin my sr20det in my corolla yesterday it is near impossible to fit without spendin big $$$

I'm shatterd i was looking forward to doin it

 

Believe me, it fits, and it fits well. The sump it like its made for the car, it easy clears the brakes, and has plenty of room for a large radiator and fan. It clears everything, and about the only thing it doesnt do is bolt straight up.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

hey i forgot i wrote in this post sorry! um it hits on all the steering and cross member

yeah it would be great if you could get me as much info as u can cause I'm still keen on

it but in a few different minds but I'm gonna do bit more research before i do anymore.

i got my sr20det in a s13 half cut so i got wiring and all that sorta stuff I'm real keen on

this but i wanna be more sure and no what i have to do before i go any further.like i said

every little bit of info will be apreciated!:) johnny t

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't know what you have hitting on the steering, i can't see anything that could. Basically all you need to do to fit the motor is cut off old engine mounts and move them, reangle them, and reweld them. The rear crossmember needs to be custom made but is real easy. Use the front uni and tailshaft from a bluebird or any old datto, don't use the silvia one as the unis are not replaceable. Other than that you need to fit a pedal box from a ta22, apparenly its not too difficult. The wiring goes to an auto electrician, probably about $600max to get that sorted. You need to get a surge tank and a lift pump and pressure pump mounted in your boot, plus get the tank modified to have a low pickup point. Do this before the auto elec sees it so he can wire it for you. Other then that, you will have to sort out intercooler plumbing, radiator (mine is custom). All of this will have to be done regardless of if you go for 4agze or sr20det, only the sr will have more grunt. :) This is a basic of what youre up against, any more questions just ask, or pm again.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the gearbox where it mouts on the back of the engine thats where it hits. yeah i got a good mate that is a auto elec so that part is sorted. what car is ur sr20 out of?I'm so confused y mine hits and urs doesnt :) also the pedal box how do u mean its not to difficult what did u do?, the brake booster and the master cylinder what did u use for them and does it hit from standard mounting position?

Edited by johnny t
Link to comment
Share on other sites

the gearbox where it mouts on the back of the engine thats where it hits. yeah i got a good mate that is a auto elec so that part is sorted. what car is ur sr20 out of?

Hi mate , like everyone else said this is a fairly easy conversion just be persistant and as far as the tunnel goes alot of us including me have had to massage the tunnel a little. tools needed ( hammer ) :) just don't go crazy with the hammer.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the gearbox where it mouts on the back of the engine thats where it hits.

 

I think it sound like you have the motor a bit too far off the firewall? mine sits about 15-20mm. Youre right though i looked a bit harder today and got my hands dirty, and the clearance between inlet manifold (s13) and steering box is about 10mm maybe even a touch less. I did not have to use a hammer on anything near the front of the box, only down near the shifter was a cut and weld job. My motor sits slightly to the passenger side on a minor angle, you can't see it, but you can tell if you measure. I attemped to get you some close up photos today but its already tooo dark and you can't tell much. I will try again tomoz, and post em up. :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

×
×
  • Create New...