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Ke15 Sl Sprinter Thread...


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Yea a vinyl top isn't the best for rust. If the car was always stored in a shed and only driven on fine days it wouldn't be a problem. I must admit though that they are very nice when properly done. I saw an XB hardtop with one yesterday and it looked the goods.

 

I doubt you will find a build date on the firewall plate. :y:

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UPDATE TIME:

 

Well today in the post I received extractors for the car :) There KE20 ones but I have a feeling they might fit or can make them fit. If they don't fit ill trade them for a set of KE1X ones. So this weekends work on the car will be to try to blast the extractors clean them up and get the die grinder out and clean up the ports on it and heat wrap them and install them and the twin carbies so ill up date as that happens. But pictures below of the extractors I recived:

post-1811-1178887168_thumb.jpg

post-1811-1178887466_thumb.jpg

post-1811-1178888526_thumb.jpg

 

Ill post up pics of final extractor finish when I'm done. But the interesting part will be bead blasting them...lol They fractionaly to big to fit in the blaster so ill play a bit..lol But another interesting note they kinda look home made :yes:

 

Cheers

Cameron

Edited by camerondownunder88
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MORE UPDATES:

 

Well today I drove around Ipswich for a while collecting parts for my KE15.

I bought:

1X 2K extractor gasket

1X extractor paint

3m of vacuum gauge hose

 

The gasket I chose because it is the 1 piece one so easier to get on the car and the twin carbies run the big port size ports so the normal gasket wont fit and restrict the ports if used.

 

I did however had some trouble getting the extractor gasket today. Super cheap didn't have one on the shelf and had to order one in so I said don't as it would take a while and be a $11 shipping fee, AutoBarn in town said they don't exist so I didn't even try convincing them and left then went to walkers A1 auto. They had 3 on the shelf so I got one. So just for reference the ACL part number for this gasket is: DSF24 and a picture of it is below:

post-1811-1178972859_thumb.jpg

post-1811-1178973053_thumb.jpg

 

Also on my last post you can see the before of the extractors. Well after a bead blast and clean today and a paint I had these:

post-1811-1178974164_thumb.jpg

 

Look like there new apart from the pitting corrosion and thats it. Tomorrow ill give them a slight clean up the flange where it bolts to the head nicer and then install them :yes:

 

I also found my KE25 throttle cable holder for twin carbies I had laying around that uses the ball and bell crank style linkages I need the small part that is lose and is clamped to the main bracket. Why? You say, Well KE15 have a flat piece of metal that bolts to the rocker cover and the small clamp on this bracket that holds the throttle and choke cable is the same as a KE25 twin setup clamp. So this KE25 part of the clamp will bolt to my KE15 part and make a complete assembly. As the original KE15 one I have is missing the clamp part :)

Here is a picture of the KE25 mount:

post-1811-1178975303_thumb.jpg

 

Cheers

Cameron

Edited by camerondownunder88
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Updates:

 

Today I went to pick up some parts I had bought previous in the week to add to the sprinter.

 

I collected:

4X mazda 110X4 stud pattern rims 13 inches diameter

1X KE20 radiator which will fit into the 15. NEW core to :yes:

 

I also got confirmation 8 datto A12 push rods are in the post on Wednesday to me so I can get the 5K on the road in the 15. As the plans for this car now are KE70 brakes 5K. So all I need for the 5K now is lifters and it is running :) As the hydro lifters failed when the cam shaft in this 5K snapped a while back :)

 

But below are the photos of what the Mazda rims look like that I purchased. I recon there a good looking rima nd with my chrome KE3X trim rings will look the part. Pitty the stock KE3X metal centre cap wont fit them :)

There also wider wheels than stock sprinter ones so safer on the road and 13inches so they will fit over my KE70 brakes when I install them.

post-1811-1179147234_thumb.jpg

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I will take photos of the radiator at a later date as it is out side and it is to late to go take pictures.

 

Cheers

Cameron

Edited by camerondownunder88
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Des I am keeping the car original as possible yet making it safer (bigger brakes) and more power ( 5K install) and in future handle better (sway bar up grade, new shocks re do rear suspension etc) and a few other gadgets that will make life easier. But it will be all bolt on mods so if I want to restore car to 100% original state well it can all be unbolted so original yet improved I like to think of it as Des..lol

 

Ok now for

UPDATES:

Well today I spent time putting a stock solid 4K cam into the 5K and putting it back together and giving it a once over. So I also shimmed the oil pump with a 1.99mm thick spacer (i was aiming for 2mm but 1.99 is close enough..lol) and new crank timing chain gear, new timing chain, new lifters, and next weekend Ill do push rods and rockers ;) Then it will be ready to install into the sprinter :bash: I have opted to use the 3F lifters and keep it original Toyota items in the car. Push rod length will be an issue but.

 

So pics below of the day work:

post-1811-1179666190_thumb.jpg

Above is start of today proceedings just got cam in and lifters in and was about to remove oil pump.

post-1811-1179666524_thumb.jpg

Painting the front flex plate cover.

 

Cheers

Cameron

Edited by camerondownunder88
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  • 2 weeks later...

update:

 

Been playing with the 5K finishing off the cam shaft swap. I have had to do this after the 5K snapped the original cam shaft blew all 8 hydro lifters and limped on that for 2 weeks so got big holes in bottom of the lifters now :yes: But all fixed it now sports a stock 4K-C cam (should of dashed out for a regrind :hmm: )for it and new 3F lifters. Had a few push rod issues but there now solved :sob: and it is running 4K-C push rods fit like a glove ;) But this is not an easy task. First all push rods are to long short etc but 4K-C one from a KE70 were NEARLY the right length jsut to long.

 

The KE70 push rod would go under the rocker arm with the adjuster wound out (also will point out the head is shaved a fair amount on this motor) this was no good. Thre was no valve clearence, at full lift the push rod was pushing on the rocker arm not the ball of the adjustment screw.

 

So to solve it I figured I needed rocker arms with less metal near the adjuster so the push rod at full lift would not hit it. So I referred to the 3K TRD manual as they used lightened linished stock rockers so I made sure I could grind where I wanted to grind. So I ground the under side near the adjuster made it thinner but still kept a good radius to the bushing area and strong. Picture below notice middle rocker is now thinner (ignore the short and different push rods..LOL

post-1811-1253445957_thumb.jpg

 

So I ground all of them down and re-assembled the rocker shaft and installed it. Now the 4K-C push rods fitted and were good but still JUST touched at full lift. Not wanting to weaken the rocker more I decided to see if I could cut down and push rod cup. As OLD K motors and some early 3K had a really shallow cup on the top. So I decided to grind back the cup on the top of the 4K-C push rods so they didnt have a deep as cup but there still deeper than original 3K ones and hopefully will still stay in at 8000 RPM. Picture below of ground down push rods:

post-1811-1253446362_thumb.jpg

Now push rods werent sitting level :lolcry: But you can see how the cup is shallower.

 

So I cleaned them up installed thema dn WOW at full lift no touch JUST and with the adjusters a fair way out they don't hit the rocker cover still :hmm: So that is hows it is done folk. Pic below of moded rods iinstalled BUT middle rod is a dished piston 4K rod (they fit with 3F lifters no worries..LOL) I found a set.

post-1811-1253445957_thumb.jpg

 

So Now to put the 5K in the car and tune it up adn see how many RPM it can handle :dance:

 

Cheers

Cameron

Edited by camerondownunder88
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UPDATES:

 

Just more updates to keep the KE1X fans happy.

 

Well today after studying all day I tripped to the north side of Brisbane to get parts for the car :P

 

These parts include:

KE55 disc brakes and calipers.

A worked 3K-B head (working includes deshrouded spark plugs, mild clean up of ports, 70 thou shave, new valve stem seals like

(KE70 ones to seal better, Weld up welsh plug, and later K motors got larger valves and they have been

installed into this head so it also has bigger valves :D so it is VERY neat.) Also for this head I must thank

the person who gave it to me for the random act of kindness THANKS...oh for now he will remain secret....

 

So pics below of the days haul:

post-1811-1181132009_thumb.jpg

The brakes above have been machined to make a new surface so there good as just been sitting so that rust will go fast on first stop :bash:

post-1811-1181132062_thumb.jpg

The head......

 

So this weekend being along weekend I should be able to get the 5K in the car with a KE30 engine mount to make the 5K stand more upright in the 15 so I get better extractor clearance (been told it can be an issue and later K motor mounts stand engines up more) and might have it running if the extractors fit on so fingers crossed. And installing the KE20 radiator and installing a thermo fan.

 

But the plans for the 3K-B head are for a crack test clean up new valves and seals then slightly port the exhaust more then bolt it on to the 5K in the future with a SC14 as I have a full SC14 to K motor setup from SU to mounts so since the 3K-B head will decompress the 5K it will receive a blower in so then the KE15 will have a bit more booggie so it isn't wasted But again bold on no cutting etc so keeping it return able to original.

 

Cheers

Cameron

Edited by camerondownunder88
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Cameron,

 

That is not a 3k-b head, as it does not have the water gallery to heat the twin carb manifold. It is simply a bigport 3k head, the same as what came standard on all single carb 3k ke11's and ke20's. All the 3k and 3k-b heads have the same sized valves as all later heads. :P

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mmmm scratches chin...

 

I was told by a reputable source the head was made/modded to take newer valves as it was off an old style motor with smaller valves. Unless it was off a 2K or something they all had smaller valves

 

But yes, no water gallery so your right there must be a single carby one.

 

Cheers

Cameron

Edited by camerondownunder88
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May have been an original K head. They had smaller valves standard than all the rest of the K series motors.

 

Probably had the guides replaced with later ones at the same time the valves were updated. The originals were probably rooted as the head would be at least 38 years old now. :P

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May have been an original K head. They had smaller valves standard than all the rest of the K series motors.

 

Probably had the guides replaced with later ones at the same time the valves were updated. The originals were probably rooted as the head would be at least 38 years old now. :D

 

 

:P

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UPDATES:

 

Well on the long weekend I got some work done I got a rebuilt 5K installed into the car :wink: and a radiator :no2:

 

Wasn't as straight forwards the swap as planned :( But never is. After getting the original 3K out I found it had an early gear box so less splines :( THEN the fly wheel is different on older K motors :( THEN the clutch was different THEN the flex plate on the rear of the motor was different to suit the old gear box :( But Not all bad. Found out the old flex plate will bolt onto a 5K :y: One hole didn't line up but no loss soldier on. Then I simply found I could use the K-B flywheel on the 5k. Massive relief as the original K-B motors had lighter fly wheels :) So faster revs :) Then simply bolted the clutch to it. Was the original pressure plate and a new fiber disk so all heavy duty and original SL sprinters had more clutch clamp pressure so also has a stronger clutch. So win all around. Poped a new spigot bearing in to for good measure.

 

But below is a picture of a stock 3K and 5K notice at the back of the motor on the right hand side there is a hole missing on the 5K this is a hole that I couldn't place a bolt. As early K motors have 2 bolts holding on the flex plate while 5k have one.

3K:

post-1811-1253447418_thumb.jpg

5K:

post-1811-1253447446_thumb.jpg

 

Also note bottom left of the 3K block has a casting buldge and 5 K is a nice smooth taper bend down to the bolt hole on the lower left.

 

Cheers

Cameron

Edited by camerondownunder88
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