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David

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  • 3 weeks later...

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picture of the fibreglass hood, right out of the mold, just fastly cut around the edges, need a proper trim

this is the second hood I made, ended up at 4.5kg because I needed some more reinforcements when using only 4 hood pins to avoid it lifting at the front in high speed

the rules says I need to use 5 hood pins,but nobody never complains as long as it's not lifting.. it looks stupid with 5 pins with this front end

 

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some 4A-GE engines for various projects

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  • 1 month later...

hey thanks for the feedback, I haven't done much to this car lately since I'm building a ke70 wagon into a drift machine

changing from rear leaf springs to 4link with panhard rod and coilovers on an AE86 T series axle

front suspension is AE86 coilovers and brakes, ps knuckles, camber plates, roll center adjusters, custom inner tie rods that's machined down 5mm on a lathe (much better than adding spacers because the way I'm doing it won't mess up bump steer)

running a stock 4A-GE 16v engine and T50 gearbox

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there is many ways of making fiberglass parts

I can only tell you what I did

 

first you must have a perfectly good hood with no dents or rust

 

then you need to buy polyester and hardener, gelcoat and hardener, fiberglass matt ( I used 300g/m2 ) expect use 10 liter polyester and 20/m2 fiberglass matt for the mold and 1 final product

wax for molding ( the product I use is named norpool wax 75W)

and nonslip liquid ( norpool nonslip)

a metal roller, various painting equipment, ++

 

I polish the hood that is already in a perfect overrated condition with autoglym 3-4 times to get low friction

then I wax the hood 3-4 times with norpool wax, and you must wait between layers

when that is finished you apply nonslip liquid and let it dry completely

then you mix gelcoat with hardener and paint the entire hood and wait untill the next day so it's dry

I would lightly sand the gelcoat the next day so you when you put on polyester it will attach to the surface

mix the polyester with 2% hardener or whatever is written on the box

paint the hood and put on 1 layer of fiberglass matt

then add some more polyester and roll out all air bubbles

 

since this is your first layer it's very important it is perfect else the mold will look crap

 

wait until the next day or atleast 12 hours and then repeat the progress

after the first layer you can add upto 3 layers each day, but you must add 1 at a time, if you do more than 3 maybe 4 layers it might get too hot and the mould can warp

 

I would use minimum 7 layers on the mold of the hood, you should also add some reinforcements, rope is good and when soaked with polyester the rope will be very stiff

you should also add some layers of fiberglass matt over the rope to get it even stiffer, I say minimum 3 layer over the rope

 

when that is done wait minimum 24 hours after the final layer is done and you finished the mold, you can now remove it from the hood, I find that air compressor gun is very nice

if you did rush the waxing you might have a big problem removing the mold..

wash the mold with water after it's removed and trim the edges, if some areas is not perfect do the repair now!

 

repeat the progress to make a final product:

wax the mold 3-4 times, add nonslip liquid, add 1 layer gelcoat, wait, add 1 layer fiberglass wait, add 3 layers fiberglass, finished

I use total 4 layer fibreglass on the hood for a racecar, you might want to add a rope in the front for reinforcement, if you use 5 hood locks it might not be neccesary, depends on how stiff you need it too be

4 layers + rope in the front + 3 layers outside the rope = approx 4.5kg

for the trunk I use total 3 layers without reinforcement, for front fenders I would use 3 or 4 layers

 

if you use too much polyester the product will be weakened, if you use to little it will be air bubbles and crap

do not mix too much hardener it will harden too fast! I find it better to use alittle less

it's a good idea to be 2 people when you've never worked with this before..

wear a protective mask or you will feel funny after a while breathing the polyester

also wear gloves because polyester is not nice for the skin and it's very messy to wash off

 

expect that your first product will be scrapped

 

if you can buy a fiberglass hood elsewhere I suggest you do it, you won't save money on making a mold only to make 1 hood

Edited by David
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  • 2 weeks later...
Fantastic technical write-up. That should almost make it into the technical section. Cheers

 

sure if anyone wants to correct my grammar and put it in a technical section you're more than welcome

I'm not from this country so if I have to write it better myself it would have to be in Norwegian, let's see if you can read that? :P

 

since I've not done any progress on this car I can post a picture or two of my dorifto ke70 :(

 

4link with panhard rod is finished, stock 16v 4age

all pillowballs on the 4link, panhard rod is stock bushings since I didn't have enough pillow balls

alittle noisy for daily driving but hey it's perfect for track, way better than leaf springs :sob:

coilovers at rear and coilovers at front, machined inner tie rods 5mm each side and ae86 ps knuckles

 

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got my helmet airbrushed:

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sure if anyone wants to correct my grammar and put it in a technical section you're more than welcome

I'm not from this country so if I have to write it better myself it would have to be in Norwegian, let's see if you can read that? :(

 

Your grammar is fine in fact it's better than some people actually with English as a first language.

 

I love your drift wagon, your skills for fabricating are excellent.

 

Do you want to come to Australia and build some Corolla's for us?? :P

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  • 1 month later...

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