yeah.. big too :P

it's something between 300 and 280mm discs, aluminium calipers, 4 piston..

great stopping power, but I think I need more brake fluid too my rear brakes.. or less to the front.

my front brakes locks up really quick, but I can't get my rear brakes to lock at all ( I don't have a handbrake :P )

 

I just finished spraypainting the cover over the spark plugs, in racing red:D

that is the grottiest keyboard i have ever seen :P and beleive me, i've seen ALOT of grotty computer bits!

Black shows up more, you should get a white keyboard :P

 

Mmm, red, red goes faster :P

hey david; i'd like to talk you out of that dual carb setup from your 2tb..........

Having so little a gap between the calipers and the rims, that must generate a bit of heat (even though they're not touching). I'd think that going up an inch in rim size would improve your braking power a bit (but wouldn't help the front-rear bias at all).

Having so little a gap between the calipers and the rims, that must generate a bit of heat (even though they're not touching).  I'd think that going up an inch in rim size would improve your braking power a bit (but wouldn't help the front-rear bias at all).

yes, I have thinked about that.. but 16" tyres is so damn much more expensive than 15"

I have to use 10mm with spacers to make it not crash with the calipers, and the control arms are alot longer than default too.. so the track width is abit too much.. hehe the tyres is actually outside the fenders.. which is illegal :\

so I have thinked about getting some compomotive TH3 rims, which are made for big brakes setup

( "TH3 - Ultimate gravel rally wheel with superior brake caliper clearance, improved brake cooling and heat dissipation properties. Advanced run flat performance utilising 'CTS' technology. High Magnesium specification aluminium alloy giving maximum strength to weight ratio. Available in sizes 6x15 through to 8x17."" )

probably something like 7,5x15" in about offset 0 will clear the calipers..

and find or make some really nice flares:D

Edited July 8, 200521 yr by David

Heh, I've got bugger all space between my brakes and wheels too:

 

 

Hoorah for big brakes :n: And my wheels don't fit under my fenders either :P

 

David: Mmm, those rims sound good :P

I have a problem here.. ( again )

when I'm getting wheelspin my gear lever goes into all directions.. really fast.. hehe

I guess it's the rubber on the gearbox crossmember..

but when I'm doing a burnout.. the same happens.. just much worse..

the rear wheels actually jumps up and down very fast.. and it feels like the car is actually jumping hehe.. I had some tools in the boot.. very nice sounds :n:

 

the rubber bushes on the rods that connect the rear axle to the chassis looked really nice, almost new.. except the panhard rod, which I used the old bushes in..

 

the shocks is quality brand.. bilstein, and not very old.. springs are much stiffer than stock..

 

when I accelerate on the throttlybody, the engine is moving a bit... but not VERY much..

 

so what could this be?

shocks, gearbox/engine mounts, rubber bushes??

help needed, this is really annoying! ( not that I'm doing burnouts everywhere, but I feel my car is not complete when this happend )

nevermind.. I figured out ( I guess )

on the gearbox mounts.. in the middle of the 2 rubber things.. there is a large bolt that pulls the gearbox down when you thighten the bolt.. that bolt was missing.. so I changed to use ae86 rubber mounts :n:

Haven't tested it yet, but the gearbox is much better mounted now, since I can't move it even if I push/pull with all my strength, with the old mounting I could move it about 2cm in any direction..

Sounds fixed. Nice work David.

if you have hood pins.. it's a really good idea to always check they are locked..

it's not nice to have the hood fly up when you're changing to 4. gear :D ¤%#¤%#¤%

luckely I only got some dents in the panel between the hood and the frontwindow.. I will fix that tomorrow

 

maybe I will make a couple of stickers to fit on the steering wheel or somewhere else that says"

is the hood properly secured?" and "Remember to turn the lights off"

weighted the ke70 the other day..

on the paper it says that my ke70 should weight 860kg

remove all the sound deadining interiour parts except the dashboard.. etc,

add 4age, t50, ae86 rear axle etc

add 4 extra rims with wheels I had in the back seats, much tools, etc, and about half full fuel tank

that weight approx 900kg.. ( I don't trust the readings 100% ) too much for my liking..

I need to remove more stuff like the metal that stiffens up the hood and boot.

fibreglass hood and fenders and lexan/plexi rear side-windows would be nice, but also expenssive..

and since there is not very thick metal I guess I would only save max 10kg on that..?

 

any ideas of other things I could remove that I might have forgoten / don't know about?

to make the car go better it's always cheaper to remove weight than do more work to the engine, since I can't really do much more to get more to the engine without an aftermarket ECU I guess..

 

.. yes I know.. I'm addicted :D I just want more and more.. I can never get enough.. :)

 

PS: for those who want more pictures, I have alot here: Pictures

I will post pictures as I take them, but there will always be more pictures than I post here on that website

Edited July 11, 200521 yr by David

i drove about 30 minutes or so to a amtes last night in mr2 @ around 140ish, got to his house, WOOOPS bonet wasn't shut properly.

I have some questions, maybe answered before, or maybe I should post this in general mechanical forum but since it's for this car I post it here..

W58 gearbox won't fit a 4AGE without new bellhousing, but is there any bellhousing out there at all?

how many splines is the input / output shaft on that gearbox, should I use ae86 or ke70 tailshaft? or do I have to get a tailshaft from the W58 car?

does this gearbox weight much more than a T50? or should I use another gearbox than the W58?

alot of questions there.. but I'm just a little curious since there is a used W58 gearbox for sale pretty cheap here in norway..

the quaife gearbox cost more money to fix than buying that W58 gearbox.. and it's really horrible to drive in the city with..

the 1. gear is almost the same as a stock t50 2nd gear, try start your car with 4age that has absolutely no torque under 5000rpm in 2nd gear uphill! :(

Bill gets them cheaper than that now, from the guy in Malaysia.