Yeahhh man. Keen to see more progress |blink|

 

Looks frikken nice man.

 

 

Havent done alot.

 

Terry came and did the exhaust connection, we just used the resonator from the 4ac system. Cut the flange off the other system and welded it up. Looks ok, and means I can drive it, albeit with a small pipe. Should sound wierd.

 

Ive also retarred the wheel arches at the front. Gooey black crap.

Edited February 7, 201016 yr by LittleRedSpirit

fair enough man |blink| Still getting closer and closer every little thing.

So I got the modified pulley back today. Cost $70 to save me the trouble of changing the pump back to a 4age one. The spacer ring and redrill is rather a neat job, so I can definately reccommend extreme custom engineering to anyone that needs odd car related fabrication done.

 

Heres a pic. The pulley used to have a big scratch accross it fromthe radiator after the prang, and he turned that off for me too.

 

I'm pretty happy with it, it fits on perfectly and locates properly. 4ac, 4af have the 50mm bolt spacing and smaller centre bore. 4age is 57mm and larger centrebore.

Damn! That's getting close to drive mode, you got that new gasket yet?

Damn! That's getting close to drive mode, you got that new gasket yet?

 

 

Yes I do, I might clean and reassemble the throttle bodies tonight, but swap to the AE111 injectors since I had them cleaned and running with them before. Then its throttles on, swap tank, wires, diff, zorst and tune.

They did a nice job on that pulley.

Woot, let me know when you need me for the wiring mate.

skids this weekend

skids this weekend

 

 

Hahaha, I'm not a skidder remember.

 

I went and got gaskets and fitted the exhaust section that Mungi Mods made the other day.

 

Then in went the caster bars and swaybar, swapped around the wheels and its on the ground now. Yippee.

 

I removed the AE111 throttles and now I just have to clean and fit the ae101 throttles.

 

Then tank and diff, which I'm obviously not looking forward to, hahah, I keep doing other shit. Theres nowhere to hide anymore. For the filler neck I'm using the RT142 corona neck and then just shortening it, as it fits straight into the ae86 tank and has the same plug in internal breather. Should be a lot easier than the first time around.

sick progression man..... Oi' whats that top rad outlet consist of? as in who made it and does it line up with the stock rad hose? I'm really on the hunt for such a piece I can get that does so, if not copy.... Speaking to 'wideslider' on DC about his top outlet as its poifect, just a hassle to get one replicated... I don't really require anything bar the outlet (no bypass or any other jazz) as I will just fit a barb fitting in somewhere that suits.

sick progression man..... Oi' whats that top rad outlet consist of? as in who made it and does it line up with the stock rad hose? I'm really on the hunt for such a piece I can get that does so, if not copy.... Speaking to 'wideslider' on DC about his top outlet as its poifect, just a hassle to get one replicated... I don't really require anything bar the outlet (no bypass or any other jazz) as I will just fit a barb fitting in somewhere that suits.

 

 

Its a fitting from yager motorsport.

 

Call them, they are in Alstonville NSW, but have no website. Very big in clubman circles. It houses a thermostat so you can do away with anthony kellams ridiculous external thermostat idea. No bypass needed in this system, just a rear plate or modified fitting, block off near the headers and the front thermostat fitting. Yes, it points almost directly at the top radiator hose outlet.

 

Heres a pic of it..

 

The bottom mount bit is cnc, but the top casting is a standard (WO53 part number) Kilkenny casting from a Mitsubishi Nimbus.

F**K yea can't wait to see this bad boy finally on the road nice work matt keep at it slowly and it will be done aye

f@$k yeah, now I remember you mentioning the Nimbus fitting at one stage..... So since I'm running a RWD pump setup I would just remove the thermostat from the back of the pump and fit it in this, but then again I could just leave it as is couldn't I and just run this fitting as a normal top outlet.... That sound right? I always confuse myself with the coolant setup.

f@$k yeah, now I remember you mentioning the Nimbus fitting at one stage..... So since I'm running a RWD pump setup I would just remove the thermostat from the back of the pump and fit it in this, but then again I could just leave it as is couldn't I and just run this fitting as a normal top outlet.... That sound right? I always confuse myself with the coolant setup.

 

 

Yeah that would work I guess. Just leaving the thermostat out of the fitting.

 

You can do either or.

 

I want the thermostat where the water comes out of the engine. Thats why it is where it is on mine. I don't have a bypass of any type. With the underdrive pulley on the waterpump it seems to work fine. It may be cheaper if you get someone who can weld to modify the top outlet from your 20v and turn it around so it faces the radiator and not the waterpump, if you don't want the thermostat in this position. I assume since you have ajdm water kit, you probably have the bypass so you may as well use what you already have I guess.

Yeah I reckon I would just fit a barb fitting in the top pipe and run a hose for the bypass.... like I have now, just way neater. Tried calling Yager, but must be closed at this time of day... I'll try them again through the week.