kangaroosa Posted October 30, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2010 If its just a 2 pin plug in the rad then its probably just a pass-through style temp switch. Relayed power on one side, power to rad off the other. :wink: Oh and what K&N did you get 3.5" or 4.5"? I got a 4.5 for the mazda and couldn't close the bloody bonnet! :lolcry: Yup, 2 pin plug. Will have to google a diagram or pic later to fully understand. The sensor is listed as 85c - 80C which i don't fully understand. If the temp goes over 85C, the fans will come on? Seems a bit low for fans to be kicking in. I got a KN56-1210 which has an 85mm high element, and the overall height is 105mm. I had the exact same one here (although the filter was stuffed and the chrome housings were a mismatch) from my engine builder as a mockup one. I also had a taller filter to try (about 5") and there was no chance in hell of that fitting without the grinder making an appearance. So I have about 25mm of bonnet clearance, which works out nicely. I just had a quick look at slotting the Rad in. I don't have the patience to start that crap now, as it seems the PWR rad is not a duplicate of the stock one. Theres brackets for the oil cooler welded on which i don't need and its just fouling on things...... Argggh i'll have to sit them side by side and see what has to be done to make it work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LXY-642 Posted October 30, 2010 Report Share Posted October 30, 2010 post some pics of the cage? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kangaroosa Posted October 30, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2010 As requested. Just a simple bolt in cage, but i guess its better than not having one at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raven Posted October 30, 2010 Report Share Posted October 30, 2010 Needs more brap.... You were supposed to get back to me with a height on your filter so I could get you one at a good price. Oh well :P Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kangaroosa Posted October 30, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2010 Needs more brap.... You were supposed to get back to me with a height on your filter so I could get you one at a good price. Oh well :P I texted you that arvo - 105mm. I guess it got lost in sms limbo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taz_Rx Posted November 1, 2010 Report Share Posted November 1, 2010 The 85* - 80* would be 85 on, 80 off. Yeah agree, that probably a little low. Somethinbg 95-90 or 95-85 might be a bit better suited. They're a piece of piss to wire - Just do the usual relay with permanent and "on" power thing, then the outlet of the relay just goes to one of the terminals, then out of the other and into the fan +. You must have like a RX3/4/5 replacement PWR as they all had the oil cooler mounted from the bottom of the radiator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raven Posted November 1, 2010 Report Share Posted November 1, 2010 I texted you that arvo - 105mm. I guess it got lost in sms limbo. Never got it dude! If all else fails, dial my number! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kangaroosa Posted November 2, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2010 The 85* - 80* would be 85 on, 80 off. Yeah agree, that probably a little low. Somethinbg 95-90 or 95-85 might be a bit better suited. They're a piece of piss to wire - Just do the usual relay with permanent and "on" power thing, then the outlet of the relay just goes to one of the terminals, then out of the other and into the fan +. You must have like a RX3/4/5 replacement PWR as they all had the oil cooler mounted from the bottom of the radiator. I got it all wired up on Sunday and tested the sensor in a cup of boiling water. The fans came on at 83-85C but kept running right until the temp dropped to 35C. I even took it out of the water and let the sensor cool in the air, and the fans still kept running until the sensor was down to 35C. I used a digital thermometer probe to test it. The drawing they sent me to modify for my setup was a generic RX2-5 & 7 CAD Drawing. After all of that, the bottom pipe on the water pump housing got a leak. Because the original pipe has a bit of a dogleg in it, I cut it off straight and had a straight piece welded onto it, so its a straight out pipe to clear the front engine mount. That was all done for the original motor nearly 2 years back. Now all of a sudden, its got a pinhole leak in the weld. I tried to weld it in the car, but it wasnt successful. So i took it off and tried again....no luck. I put weld after weld onto it patching suspect areas only to weld one section and blow through because it was paper thin. I need to cut the pipe off, get a new pipe and get a pro to weld it properly. The last thing i need is a pipe snapping off and dumping my coolant. So it was a bit of an anti climax. The new enigne is still yet to be fired up in the car. :( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chappo12 Posted November 3, 2010 Report Share Posted November 3, 2010 the ASI rad i have in mine was the same i had to cut out heaps to get it in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LXY-642 Posted November 3, 2010 Report Share Posted November 3, 2010 cage looks the goods man. where you find a bolt in cage for the rolla? or did you have it made up? shame your having problems with the rad and thermo man. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kangaroosa Posted November 3, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2010 cage looks the goods man. where you find a bolt in cage for the rolla? or did you have it made up? shame your having problems with the rad and thermo man. I bought the cage on here from an interstate bloke. In hindsight, it wouldnt be hard to make one from scratch with a selection of mandrel bends, or even a pipe bender. The leaky water pump housing is my main concern. I had a new one welded up this arvo, and now have to go grab some new gaskets, acid dip the housing and get it all sprayed up again. Hopefully it will be all sorted Sunday if I get a chance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kangaroosa Posted November 7, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2010 (edited) Well the engine is finally all plumbed up and running. I've only driven around the block to a servo to fill up after dumping the old fuel which I assume had all the old 2 stroke oil sitting in the bottom because the car sat engineless for over 3 months. Hence the smoke...but after i filled up, the smoke has totally gone. Temps all seem fine just at idle. No oil leaks. Just have to work out if my oil pressure multi point adaptor is the reason for lower than the dyno pressure, or if the gauge is at fault. Unfortunately the gauge sensor fouls on the block, so i have to run an adaptor anyway. I'll have to go to a workshop and use a proper screw in gauge to test it. For some reason the brakes have turned to crap again. The pedal is hard and has no bite. I bypassed the the booster tank I have and ran it in the traditional method, with the same result. I did adjust the brake pedal height when I had the booster out to paint the engine bay. I adjusted the fitting on the end of the push rod so the pedal sat closer to the firewall, which makes heel and toeing easier as the accel pedal sits much lower. That really shouldnt affect the feel of the pedal as its the other end where the business happens. I've also swapped to a spare valve with no change. I knew the brakes werent 100% so the lap of the block was quite sedate, but jeebus did it pull like a teenager in the brief 1st and 2nd gear squirt. I have an Xtreme Rotaries Short Shifter installed now. It will take a bit of getting used to as its such a short throw and I found myself holding the clutch in longer doubting if i had the right gear. I guess its just something that will come naturally with some driving time. Anyway, heres the movie of the first startup in car. I was just holding the camera as i was walking around checking temps, leaks, noises etc so please excuse the random shots and jerkiness as my mind was elsewhere. The idle has been adjusted and is alot more brappy now. Edited November 7, 2010 by kangaroosa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
78_7kRolla Posted November 7, 2010 Report Share Posted November 7, 2010 Nice ;) Great to hear she's driving well. I'm sure you'll have no probs sorting out the few issues you have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ke70dave Posted November 7, 2010 Report Share Posted November 7, 2010 brilliant mate! engine sounds very happy in that video. your brake problem isnt just rusty discs? (its been sitting for a while yeah?) did it get better after you drove it? great build, keep the updates flowing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kangaroosa Posted November 7, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2010 The brakes are a bit rusty and the calipers where reconditioned not long before ripping the engine out. I have only done a lap of the block, so they didnt really have a chance to wear in. It could be that simple, but the pedal just feels weird. The first 1" or so is just nothing...like its just slack. Then the brakes start working, but there is no real drop in pedal height. Its like i have to jump on them hard to really work, but theres not that section pedal where you can feel the softness of the pedal that you get from vaccuum assisted brakes. I have to get a new fuel pressure gauge as mine doesnt change no matter what setting i have the pressure reg on. The pump and reg are holley red and are much newer than the gauge. So i don't really want to drive the car too much until i get that sorted, so i don't empty the fuel bowl and lean it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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