4k-c Turbo Build!

[Jaydnisevil]

Ok, this isnt another 'I'm thinking of going down this path' thread..

Basicly, iv got a 84 rolla (I think its a KE71) and I plan to strip it to bits and track it.

 

I'm going to strip pretty much everything, aside from the drive-train. I'm going to turbo-charge the stock motor and use that untill it dies.

This isnt a daily drive, so it can sit around for as long as I need :)

Just wanted a few pointers for the build in certain areas..

 

I will be running a blow through setup on the stock carby (if possible, may have to get one from a 2.5L+ motor), and will have to encase it to prevent fuel going out the bowl.

The turbo Ill use is a CT9 from a starlet GT (1.3L turbo) stock is 7psi on that car, and thats more than enough for what I want.

This will be running through a factory XR6 Turbo inter-cooler (it only has about 1-3psi pressure loss on the falcon, so little to none on this car)

 

My concerns are about the fuel pump, and where to tap the oil lines..

Whats the standard mechanical pump rated at, 5psi? meaning I can't run my desired 7-8psi.

 

Ill chuck in some standard WRX seats, not sure what todo with the dash.. its just extra weight, but less work than making a new one.

I will definitely need to address suspension and possibly the rear diff.. I could either weld up the stocker, or somehow find a LSD (or just swap out the diff entirely for like a hilux diff)

 

Anybody want to chime in here?

Thanks guys

Edited June 7, 2010 by Jaydnisevil

[Taz_Rx]

I used to use a 32/32 DTMR-A from a Fiat 128 which loved the boost from the get go. I did get some fine tuning of the jets (on a dyno) but was still pretty good to start with, just got a bit too rich when it first boosted up. Only other thing I did to it was fit a bigger needle and seat from a Falcon weber.

You don't HAVE to encase the whole carby. Make sure the gasket and all other seals are good and you can just get away with a top hat.

 

I probably wouldn't use a CT9 as frankly it would be too small. Yes I know it came from a 1300cc motor but just trust me on it. :) I would reccomend using some sort of WRX turbo (like my old TD04-L) as they have a food compromise of bottm end, and top end power. You can then late upgrade to an STi ballbearing turbo if you want. Alternatively, use a T2 (T2, T25, T25G T28 etc) flanged turbo like my current setup. I would reccoment these over the WRX one for several reason: They're readily available and cheap from guys doing upgrades on there CA/SR's They're well matched in size for a 4/5k. And there is HEAPS of possible upgrades in the same flanges, ie GT28, GT2560R, GT2871R etc etc etc.

 

Oil line are easy. Feed comes from the bottom of the oil filter housing where the low pressure switch is. Just T-piece it to keep the switch also. Return just goes back into the sump, so you'll have to weld on a fitting.

 

Fuel system info can be found here....

http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=17418

 

I'd highly reccomend spending the extra coin to do the surge tank setup (rather than the Carter black) as the carter can cavitate after a while and drop all pressure.

 

Click "Tar" in my sig below to see my project thread. :)

[Jaydnisevil]

Well I need to decide if I want blow through or suck through. I'm not opposed to redesigning the intake manifold, 90degree turns suck balls.

 

Suckthrough:

Pro:

No need for upgrade fuel pump

don't have to house the carby.

Will look neater.

probably cheaper

Cons:

can't run an inter-cooler, limited in boost pressure because of that.

 

Blowthrough:

Pro:

Can use the standard inlet manifold

Can use an inter-cooler.

Cons:

Will have to upgrade fuel pump

Will have to encase carby (or replace, apparently needle and seat don't like more than 5psi)

More money

 

I would have liked an inter-cooler, but then again I will only be running 5-7psi.

Maybe run blow-through later if I upgrade the carby.

 

The CT9 will do just fine, its setup for 7psi on a 1.3L stock anywho, so thats perfect.

A TD04-L is too big for a 1.3L, I looked at the compressor maps for my old impreza RS 2.5 and that just made it into the efficiency maps at 7psi.

I can't find a map for the CT9, but I'm sure its better than a wrx turbo ment for a 2L running 1bar.

The CT9 is capable of around 13psi and thats more than what I need, the engine will die at around 10 (so I'm told)

 

For suckthrough, am I better off replacing the carby now? Ill have some money left over considering I don't have to buy an IC.

Finding something from say a 2L motor (Theoretical capacity at 7psi)

 

1.3L=14.7 (atmo)

x.xL=21.7 (atmo + 7psi)

 

= 1.91L motor.

[altezzaclub]

Get a fat SU carb for a suckthrough- Some British car at the wreckers will have an inch & 3/4 on it, an old Jag or Rover.

[Grand Master of Awesome]

Ill chuck in some standard WRX seats, not sure what todo with the dash.. its just extra weight, but less work than making a new one.

I will definitely need to address suspension and possibly the rear diff.. I could either weld up the stocker, or somehow find a LSD (or just swap out the diff entirely for like a hilux diff)

 

Anybody want to chime in here?

Thanks guys

 

why WRX seats? would almost be easier to lurk forums and find some cheap fixed back seats, should be able to pick some up for $100-$200 each and then just mod ke rails to suit.

 

change your struts to ae86 ones, and buy coilover kit from anyone really (ajps, otomoto etc etc), xt130 lca's or sigma lca's. lock spacer?

hilux diff's are getting up there with being really heavy, and you're not going to be pushing out overly huge power so welding the stock diff should be fine, if you start breaking those opt for a T-series, (from t18, can't recall exact model corona or ra60 celica.) T series also gives you LSD option.

[ae824ate]

Ive seen a drawthrough setup when it backfires, and its not good at all :) When it happened on my mates datsun absolutely destroyed the turbo lol. and the silly bugger had the thought of adding an intercooler, which really just become a bomb.

[philbey]

You don't need to Box the carby you just need a boost pressure reference line to the fuel bowl. You could just close up the standard bowl vents and tap a fitting into the top of the fuel bowl.

[KE70+AE92]

what do mean when u say boost pressure reference line,

i s that a line so that the fuel bowl doesnt get the boost pressure directy into it, thats why u close up the standard bowl jets?

[Jaydnisevil]

Get a fat SU carb for a suckthrough- Some British car at the wreckers will have an inch & 3/4 on it, an old Jag or Rover.

 

Will do :)

Scouring Ebay now :)

Suckthrough is cheaper and well I don't need an inter-cooler at 7psi.

1.5 will be plenty, the inlet to the turbo is just under 1.5"

 

why WRX seats? would almost be easier to lurk forums and find some cheap fixed back seats, should be able to pick some up for $100-$200 each and then just mod ke rails to suit.

 

change your struts to ae86 ones, and buy coilover kit from anyone really (ajps, otomoto etc etc), xt130 lca's or sigma lca's. lock spacer?

hilux diff's are getting up there with being really heavy, and you're not going to be pushing out overly huge power so welding the stock diff should be fine, if you start breaking those opt for a T-series, (from t18, can't recall exact model corona or ra60 celica.) T series also gives you LSD option.

 

Because WRX seats go for around $200 anywho. I used to have a impreza, and they were fantastic. Simple, light and supportive.

So will the AE86 mcpherson strut bolt up alright? (front and rear) I'm assuming the coilover kits are just strut inserts and springs, please clarify :bash:

Id like to do lsd from the start, if I could.

[Taz_Rx]

Woh, talk about some mis-information. :) No offence man but you're sooo wrong with a lot of that stuff.

 

Sorry you might have to wait until tomoz for me to correct you on it.

 

 

While you're waiting.... click "Tar" in my sig like I told you to. I trying to help you, not show off. For what you want to do there is a lot of info (basically all you need to know) in there that would explain why I'm saying you're wrong. :)

 

One last thing......

 

4k, carby, TD04-L.....

 

http://www.youtube.com/user/TheoriginalTaz...u/0/nR2e0qmsELY

 

Do you think thats laggy!?

Edited June 9, 2010 by Taz_Rx

[philbey]

what do mean when u say boost pressure reference line,

i s that a line so that the fuel bowl doesnt get the boost pressure directy into it, thats why u close up the standard bowl jets?

 

The reason you box up a carby is so that the fuel bowl pressure is equalised to the boost pressure - otherwise, your fuel bowl pressure will be lower than the carby throats and getting fuel out the jets will be..... problematic.

[Felix]

The reason you box up a carby is so that the fuel bowl pressure is equalised to the boost pressure - otherwise, your fuel bowl pressure will be lower than the carby throats and getting fuel out the jets will be..... problematic.

 

Why? The stock carb has the fuel bowl vented directly into the carby throat... Actually they have two vents from the fuel bowl into the carby throats.

 

The only reason I could think where the stock carb would need to be boxed is to avoid blowing out the rubber bit around the accelerator pump.

[Taz_Rx]

I only boxed my carb as an easy solution. I definately would have lost some power just through the swirl effect that would happen in "Ned's Helmet". If the gaskets are all new and tight just a top hat would be better flowing.

 

You're right felix, some..... well actually most have some sort of vent to the float bowl. However Tom is also right because I was once helpinga guy with a ktc setup with a Falcon weber, which as far as we could find didn't have a float bowl vent in the carby top. We ended up running a boost ref line to the float bowl as Tom described. To be honest though I don't know if it really helped because that car had other issues and never ran boost properly. The guy ended up giving up on it, and hence I ended up with My TD04-L! :)

[Jaydnisevil]

Woh, talk about some mis-information. :) No offence man but you're sooo wrong with a lot of that stuff.

 

Sorry you might have to wait until tomoz for me to correct you on it.

 

 

While you're waiting.... click "Tar" in my sig like I told you to. I trying to help you, not show off. For what you want to do there is a lot of info (basically all you need to know) in there that would explain why I'm saying you're wrong. :)

 

One last thing......

 

4k, carby, TD04-L.....

 

Do you think thats laggy!?

 

Alot being?

I appreciate that, but I am telling you that the WRX turbo is too bit for that motor.

Not necessarly lag wise, but efficiency wise. Have a look at the compressor maps and you will see why.

The map I have is for a TD04-H, only because I can't find my TD04-L one.

 

That was mapped for my old impreza RS 2.5L at 7 and 9psi from memory.

 

Will have another look through your page, I'm more interested in suspension, brakes and gearbox/diff stuff now :bash:

Edited June 9, 2010 by Jaydnisevil

[Taz_Rx]

I appreciate that, but I am telling you that the WRX turbo is too bit for that motor.

 

So you've had a TD04-L on a 4k have you?

 

I'm not in the greatest of moods tonight, so you can just go play with your mis-information. Don't expect help for me again. I'm sure somebody else here will tell you that you just shot yourself in the foot.

 

 

BTW, your graph is for a TD04H. :)