frasian Posted October 27, 2010 Report Share Posted October 27, 2010 hey just wondering why did you go with a black bay and not the blue ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GJM85 Posted October 27, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2010 It's easier to keep clean. Or not clean..... (ie. dirt and grease doesn't stand out so much). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phat_20 Posted October 28, 2010 Report Share Posted October 28, 2010 The paint looks awsome....bangin build dude. Can't wait to see this 20 finished. :y: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GJM85 Posted October 28, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2010 quote name='phat_20' timestamp='1288245840' post='478689'] The paint looks awsome....bangin build dude. Can't wait to see this 20 finished. :y: Cheers buddy. I can't get over the colour it's completely orginal... I spent 3 hrs pulling the front struts out last night and I took them to Andrew at Southside Engineering. I had a real good look at his little ke20 track while I was there. It's tight. Andrew is going to source the 50mm lowering springs, then find some inserts to match the high and get spacers made so I don't need to f@$k with the overall length of the leg. He'll also be getting the bump stop and rear lowering blocks for me.I decided to go with the 2 inch lowering blocks instead of having the rear springs reset. Two main reasons... a smoother ride and cost effective. I ordered the gear for the front end. inner tie rods outer tie rods stabilizer bush set lower ball joints idler arm kit I've ordered and recieved my complete rubber kit from Phils Rotaties and ordered black loop pile carpet from Knox Auto carpet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Undertaker_is_the_best Posted October 28, 2010 Report Share Posted October 28, 2010 Cheers buddy. I can't get over the colour it's completely orginal... I spent 3 hrs pulling the front struts out last night and I took them to Andrew at Southside Engineering. I had a real good look at his little ke20 track while I was there. It's tight. Andrew is going to source the 50mm lowering springs, then find some inserts to match the high and get spacers made so I don't need to f@$k with the overall length of the leg. He'll also be getting the bump stop and rear lowering blocks for me.I decided to go with the 2 inch lowering blocks instead of having the rear springs reset. Two main reasons... a smoother ride and cost effective. I ordered the gear for the front end. inner tie rods outer tie rods stabilizer bush set lower ball joints idler arm kit I've ordered and recieved my complete rubber kit from Phils Rotaties and ordered black loop pile carpet from Knox Auto carpet. hey gav just have to check about this cause i had lowering blocks in the 55 and was told to take them out for roady aparently they are now not a road worthy item just thought i tell ya what i was told and yea wouldnt be to do all that and have to take them out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Undertaker_is_the_best Posted October 28, 2010 Report Share Posted October 28, 2010 but again i would say find out for sure Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GJM85 Posted October 28, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2010 According to Andrew they are up to 2 inches, but i'll check the modifications handbook.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tally Posted October 29, 2010 Report Share Posted October 29, 2010 I'm sure you know lowering blocks wont give you a smoother ride, will increase it in harshness, given a bit of time your leaf springs will cop a beating and deform ive heard.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GJM85 Posted October 29, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2010 I'm sure you know lowering blocks wont give you a smoother ride, will increase it in harshness, given a bit of time your leaf springs will cop a beating and deform ive heard.... I'm getting conflicting information either way. Some say yes, others say no, others say it depends on the application. They are only $80 so, if after a short time I get the shits it won't be a difficult change to resets.... Today I hit the front inner guards with stone guard and had a look at the test viewed the superlites. The body still needs to come down 2 inches... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evan G Posted October 29, 2010 Report Share Posted October 29, 2010 lowering blocks wont change the ride? i don't see how pushing the diff up towards the body will change the ride? i dislike lowering blocks. play around with flipping leafs till your happy with the ride height Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GJM85 Posted October 29, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2010 (edited) lowering blocks wont change the ride? i don't see how pushing the diff up towards the body will change the ride? i dislike lowering blocks. play around with flipping leafs till your happy with the ride height That's right! Lowering blocks won't change the ride. So it will still remain a fairly soft rear end depending on what shock absorbers I use. The front end will be fairly stiff the way its being set up because that's where the weight and body roll is generated. There isn't nearly as much weight in the back end, so having stiff suspension will make that shit bounce. I drive the work ute often. A Ford Courier. When its loaded up on the back the ride is smooth. But with no weight on the arse it bounces all over the road because the springs are so hard to take weight. Same theory applies here. Lowering blocks will change the ride height but not the ride... Mark my words... this car will corner like a minx and still be comfortable. Edited October 29, 2010 by GJM85 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evan G Posted October 29, 2010 Report Share Posted October 29, 2010 I'm running flipped leaf and std compressed springs in the front front feel soft and not spine breaking rear feel real firm is the best way to put it. i wouldnt mind going a little stiffer in the front but yea thats in the future Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GJM85 Posted October 29, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2010 (edited) I'm running flipped leaf and std compressed springs in the front front feel soft and not spine breaking rear feel real firm is the best way to put it. i wouldnt mind going a little stiffer in the front but yea thats in the future Well yeah it all comes down to application of the vehicle. If you want a drift pig or dragster harden the rear end. If you want a car that handles on Australia's dog shit roads you need something a little firmer but not stiff in the rear to help maintain rear end traction and somthing firm in the front to help with body roll and weight distribution. You need to find a balance somewhere.... and this is what i'm trying. Edited October 29, 2010 by GJM85 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLW42 Posted October 29, 2010 Report Share Posted October 29, 2010 gav i saw some of the pics of a so called patch of dodgy on the body, you must be spewing On a positive side the wheels look tough as against it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GJM85 Posted October 29, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2010 gav i saw some of the pics of a so called patch of dodgy on the body, you must be spewing On a positive side the wheels look tough as against it It's only one spot they've missed and the rest is an easy fix. Still, i'm staying positive, MSR did a really good job getting the real nasty shit sorted so i'm still happy. Good to see JP has no issues with smearing people's names around town.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.