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Timbo'S Ae86


timbo

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yeah wtf is going on there? whats the need/point?

 

 

So went looking on AE86DC for the aforementioned sub forum. Just so I could see how low the forum has descended of course.... Couldn't find it.

 

BUT, did see someone had nominated themselves as a moderator a while back :rolls: (looks up two posts).

 

Mind you, so did half the rest of the members. That said, I do agree you would have been the only good choice! Thought about it myself years ago, then thought better of it.

 

 

I am putting my new struts in tonight. Going from functional height King springs in a conventional strut arrangement, to 235mm free height springs with SW20 inserts and T3 strut inserts also in a conventional strut arrangement.

 

Hopefully not too low..... Spent half this afternoon trying to find some M14 nylock nuts as the KYB nuts supplied were too tall.

Edited by parrot
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So went looking on AE86DC for the aforementioned sub forum. Just so I could see how low the forum has descended of course.... Couldn't find it.

BUT, did see someone had nominated themselves as a moderator a while back :rolls: (looks up two posts).

 

 

haha me? yeah i nominated myself. figured it would make my internet browsing somewhat usefull.

 

it used to be good, but i dunno seems to have gone down hill....and then that subforum popped up.....and that was it....I'm rarely there anyway. browse the for sale sections and try and offload some of my spare parts in the WTB's :P

 

formentioned subforum is just below offtopic, in fact its the lowest forum link. you gota be signed into see it though.

 

anyways, back to more important matters.

 

more discussions of this ae86....go!

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i just put new rear springs on mine and it's made the back fairly low (it was already a little lower before, had half a coil cut from the stock springs) but it still seems ok to me.

 

any specs? i want mine a little more lower in the back.

 

edit: i'm so lazy... checked out your build thread, very cool! that ride height at the rear looks pretty good. how much of the wheel is tucked. oh and i also have that rear spring creak, obviously i don't have the rubber boots either!

Edited by timbo
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also feel free people to discuss the possible options for more power! in the near future i would like to get an aftermarket computer in order to run bigger cams and have the ability to tune the car a whole lot better, ie fuel delivery etc.

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My 2 cents. I think it depends on what you are going to use it for. I have a 7 rib bigport in mine with stock bottom end, flowed head, 268 degree in/ex cams running a Jap factory ECU, and raised fuel pressure. Standard gearbox ratios and a 4.3 rear. The result of all that when you step on the accelerator, is a lot of frantic action, induction roar, and before you know it you have hit the rev limiter. So in a nutshell, has moved the useable power higher and into a fairly narrow band for the street. 270 - 272 degrees duration is about the maximum you can run on a stock ecu.

 

This is with stock 182cc injectors. My presumption is that this is probably running a bit lean, so plan putting some slightly larger injectors in it along with a F-Con fuel computer to try and tune it a little. Of course that leaves me with the factory ignition maps. When that is done, I shall get it dynoed (before and after)

 

Is it worth going aftermarket to run bigger cams? I'm not really sure about that. Lots of money, need to find a good tuner who can work with your management system, and may well be limiting its road driveability. Plus you can run into issues with the law. I reckon I would go 256/264 duration with a stock ECU for a street/occasional track car. You already have 250cc injectors in the smallport, but would also be limited by the ignition map.

 

If it is just a track car, and set up to utilise a narrow powerband, then I think it is fine.

 

Personally, for a road car I wouldn't go down that route.

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all very valid points. the limiter on the stock ecu is a problem if you run big cams such as those around the 270 mark. 256, 264 from research seem to be fine on the stock ecu but is it really worth spending money with a relatively small power gain? i don't know... it does offer more mid range torque i suppose.

 

what sort of work was done to your head?

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I had mine prepared as per the TRD manual, i.e. no polishing of the joggles. Valve springs etc unchanged. Not sure exactly what the lift is, but certainly no more than 8

 

If you have a look in the TRD Bible, it is reprinted there. Let me know if you don't have it and I will scan and email it to you.

 

The torque is an issue with a daily driver. With my setup, it is still totally driveable thanks no doubt to factory MAPS, but as I said, there is two seconds of craziness, sort of like a VTEC, then you are changing up and starting again. A mate has 256/264's in his, and the power delivery is more usable.

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I've got the 20v silvertop in mine running aftermarket ECU (Link G4 Storm) and custom exhaust, but it makes no where near as much power as it should (like 73rwkw). With that said though the car drives fine on the road. It's not the fastest car, even if I take of at the lights I don't end up miles ahead of people, but for a street car the power is fine. It's fairly even and smooth. I'm not really planning to do much more to the engine. All I will really do is put on some trumpets. Over time I might try and hunt down some of the missing wasps, but at the end of the day its fine for the road.

 

I'll try to get some close up pictures of the rear and how it sits for you (I am also very lazy).

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i have a pdf copy of the manual and have read through the head prep part concerning joggles etc. did you polish your valve faces?

 

 

No. I basically gave my head and the instruction page to my engine guy and said, "can you do this please".

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Its a classic question, mod the 4a or chase big numbers with a different motor. Its more of a heart and soul question. Do you want to keep the car original? If so a worked ge would be the go. If that's out the window I think something interesting could be done. I'm still keen to see a v6 2/1/4grfe corolla be born...

 

I would highly recommend a standalone ecu as its only going to suck to daily drive if its tuned poorly. I've done a lot of work on my 20v maps to make the car have excellent manners in traffic, its basically detuning the first couple of steps of the tps so the thing wont snap the driveline on off like a light switch. Now with some effort and experimentation its as easy to drive as any stock car, and you can let the revs roll right down to idle in any gear and it wont shudder as the torque drops off.

 

A standalone will also stand you in good stead no matter what you do. Adaptronic is my choice because it is easily user configurable to almost any specification. You buy it once and go car to car with the thing once you have it. Its an investment in enjoying any car you own the way I see it.

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