Ha ha. I think I will just get a s13 trev, I wouldn't be going to the track all the time so a basic set up would be enough.

I could just take the seats and other unnessisary items that I can remove easily out, then after the day I can put it back, that's if I get one I want to drive a bit to.

2 of my mates built vl turbo wagons. They used them for circuit. Drift and drag. Both running 300rwkw and manual. Cage, hydraulic handbrake. And have a set of wheels and tires for each type of event. They also spent a fair bit on suspension.

I am builiding my keto for this exact issue you have, and was disscusing it with my mate, and we came to the conclusion you would need adjustable everything, swaybars, rose jointed lca's(for more/less camber), coilovers (height, bound/rebound spring rates), camber tops,

And a reliable as hell motor and drivetrain,

 

I PERSONALLY am going to be using a turbo ca, cushioned button clutch, turbo ca box (till it breaks then go onto an rb box), one piece tailshaft, a falcon diff as i you can get heaps of ratio's for them (i'll be using 3.45:1 ratio as it's a good all-rounder) and mini spool in the diff (for drifting, plus they don't break( i know from personall experience) in a hurry anyways),

 

Suspension will be made up of....

Adjustable front and rear swaybars (front bigger/stiffer than rear), rose jointed stock ke or xt130 lca's, camber tops, front coilovers unsure of brand/spring rates yet(with two sets of springs, one set stiffer then the other), adjustable panhard rod, adjustable height rear springs(AJPS is good for that ;) )

 

Thats how i am going to be setting my car up, any opinions or advice throw it out there

3.45:1 behind an DET CA? Bit high much?

 

Might be a good all-rounder in a falcon, but consider the torque difference between the 2?

Bit high much?

 

Second that! Pick the top speed you want to do and work backards to the ratio that will do it at peak useable revs.

 

4.1 to 4.5 is much more likely. We rallied with 4.6, some guys using 5.1.

hmmmmm yeah, there is a fair difference in the torque, even then what does a turbo ca silvia run 4.11's??? 4.3:1???

i had 4.3 in my old CA turbo silvia. did 250 kph with those gears, probably more than youd be wanting in a KE70. unless your mad.

maybe i'm a little crazy hehehe 4.11's might be the go but i'm gonna try out 3.45's 1st if there gay i can always sell them or put them into another car, and if there not cool for what i want then i'll find a set of 4.11's :D

saw a ke70 with a 4age drifting at winton raceway today in real life. must say the bog stock 4age wasnt cutting it

 

dunno what suspension he was running etc etc. he was running a locker but needed more power to keep it sideways

sorry SLW but I'm going to have to pick your post appart a bit:P

 

 

And a reliable as hell motor and drivetrain,

 

shoudlnt this be a requirement on any car?

and mini spool

 

forget the mini spool for "grip", lockers are a heap of junk. get a proper lsd.

 

Suspension will be made up of....

Adjustable front and rear swaybars (front bigger/stiffer than rear), rose jointed stock ke or xt130 lca's, camber tops, front coilovers unsure of brand/spring rates yet(with two sets of springs, one set stiffer then the other), adjustable panhard rod, adjustable height rear springs(AJPS is good for that ;) )

 

so how are you going to decide on what settings to run? adjustable everything isnt very useful if you don't know what to adjust them to?

 

my oppinion, get a car, and get out there driving. then start changing things to suit.

Theres not a big difference between a circuit car and a drift car at the highest levels. For me Id run the same car but fiddle with tyre pressures and spring/damper rates and wheel alignment to get it drifting. I doubt you need 'adjustable everything' as people put it. I wonder if they can tell me what changing different settings will even do? You want a softer feel in a grip car, that takes bumps and ripples and keeps on trucking without ending up spitting or spinning. Soft spring rates and good dampers. For drift, the same setup most likely with a stiffer rear end so what you do on the wheel and pedals gets transferred into the chassis more directly. Even then its not a big change and you could still quite adequately drift a fully built circuit car minus the slicks of course. It will just loose traction progressively and not snap all over the place.

 

A lot of people will tell you how to set up a drift car, there's a basic list of 'cheap tricks' that kids use to make an underpowered rig slide. Massive rear tyre pressures, stretched skinny tires, springs that are basically completely rigid and shocks with zero droop, the list goes on.

 

Its a lot simpler than you might think, and quite frankly, you being a good steerer will make the biggest difference.

Edited February 28, 201115 yr by LittleRedSpirit

A lot of people will tell you how to set up a drift car, there's a basic list of 'cheap tricks' that kids use to make an underpowered rig slide. Massive rear tyre pressures, stretched skinny tires, springs that are basically completely rigid and shocks with zero droop, the list goes on.

 

Its a lot simpler than you might think, and quite frankly, you being a good steerer will make the biggest difference.

 

 

Look no stupid tyre stretch or ridiculous camber. Car looks like it can handle or slide depending on what the driver wants.

Ok dave for starters BW lsd's are fooking shit house in falcadoors, KAAZ 2 ways for them are nearly $1-2000 and i have seen a KAAZ do singles, i don't want that to happen and a spool will push the car rather than let it turn freely

 

I'm looking at using 4 - 6kg front springs and the same in the rear obviously leaning more to 5.5 - 6kg springs in the front and 4- 5.5kg springs in the rear

 

And then just work from there

yeah man lsd over locker anyday maby look into anouther diff man ive broken 5 falcon diffs in my old eb turbo man there kinda shit.

and just get an lsd and rebuild it its not hard man.

Ok dave for starters BW lsd's are fooking shit house in falcadoors, KAAZ 2 ways for them are nearly $1-2000 and i have seen a KAAZ do singles, i don't want that to happen and a spool will push the car rather than let it turn freely

 

I'm looking at using 4 - 6kg front springs and the same in the rear obviously leaning more to 5.5 - 6kg springs in the front and 4- 5.5kg springs in the rear

 

And then just work from there

 

Most likely because the diff was never run in and it had premature wear, most race cars LSD's are that tight that they might as well be a locker, the skyline used to axle hop driving out of the pit bay.