Jump to content

Full Time Drift Car/Part Time Grip?


Istartfires

Recommended Posts

Members dont see this ad

I am builiding my keto for this exact issue you have, and was disscusing it with my mate, and we came to the conclusion you would need adjustable everything, swaybars, rose jointed lca's(for more/less camber), coilovers (height, bound/rebound spring rates), camber tops,

And a reliable as hell motor and drivetrain,

 

I PERSONALLY am going to be using a turbo ca, cushioned button clutch, turbo ca box (till it breaks then go onto an rb box), one piece tailshaft, a falcon diff as i you can get heaps of ratio's for them (i'll be using 3.45:1 ratio as it's a good all-rounder) and mini spool in the diff (for drifting, plus they don't break( i know from personall experience) in a hurry anyways),

 

Suspension will be made up of....

Adjustable front and rear swaybars (front bigger/stiffer than rear), rose jointed stock ke or xt130 lca's, camber tops, front coilovers unsure of brand/spring rates yet(with two sets of springs, one set stiffer then the other), adjustable panhard rod, adjustable height rear springs(AJPS is good for that ;) )

 

Thats how i am going to be setting my car up, any opinions or advice throw it out there

Link to comment
Share on other sites

saw a ke70 with a 4age drifting at winton raceway today in real life. must say the bog stock 4age wasnt cutting it

 

dunno what suspension he was running etc etc. he was running a locker but needed more power to keep it sideways

Link to comment
Share on other sites

sorry SLW but I'm going to have to pick your post appart a bit:P

 

 

And a reliable as hell motor and drivetrain,

 

shoudlnt this be a requirement on any car?

and mini spool

 

forget the mini spool for "grip", lockers are a heap of junk. get a proper lsd.

 

Suspension will be made up of....

Adjustable front and rear swaybars (front bigger/stiffer than rear), rose jointed stock ke or xt130 lca's, camber tops, front coilovers unsure of brand/spring rates yet(with two sets of springs, one set stiffer then the other), adjustable panhard rod, adjustable height rear springs(AJPS is good for that ;) )

 

so how are you going to decide on what settings to run? adjustable everything isnt very useful if you don't know what to adjust them to?

 

my oppinion, get a car, and get out there driving. then start changing things to suit.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Theres not a big difference between a circuit car and a drift car at the highest levels. For me Id run the same car but fiddle with tyre pressures and spring/damper rates and wheel alignment to get it drifting. I doubt you need 'adjustable everything' as people put it. I wonder if they can tell me what changing different settings will even do? You want a softer feel in a grip car, that takes bumps and ripples and keeps on trucking without ending up spitting or spinning. Soft spring rates and good dampers. For drift, the same setup most likely with a stiffer rear end so what you do on the wheel and pedals gets transferred into the chassis more directly. Even then its not a big change and you could still quite adequately drift a fully built circuit car minus the slicks of course. It will just loose traction progressively and not snap all over the place.

 

A lot of people will tell you how to set up a drift car, there's a basic list of 'cheap tricks' that kids use to make an underpowered rig slide. Massive rear tyre pressures, stretched skinny tires, springs that are basically completely rigid and shocks with zero droop, the list goes on.

 

Its a lot simpler than you might think, and quite frankly, you being a good steerer will make the biggest difference.

Edited by LittleRedSpirit
Link to comment
Share on other sites

A lot of people will tell you how to set up a drift car, there's a basic list of 'cheap tricks' that kids use to make an underpowered rig slide. Massive rear tyre pressures, stretched skinny tires, springs that are basically completely rigid and shocks with zero droop, the list goes on.

 

Its a lot simpler than you might think, and quite frankly, you being a good steerer will make the biggest difference.

 

 

Look no stupid tyre stretch or ridiculous camber. Car looks like it can handle or slide depending on what the driver wants.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok dave for starters BW lsd's are fooking shit house in falcadoors, KAAZ 2 ways for them are nearly $1-2000 and i have seen a KAAZ do singles, i don't want that to happen and a spool will push the car rather than let it turn freely

 

I'm looking at using 4 - 6kg front springs and the same in the rear obviously leaning more to 5.5 - 6kg springs in the front and 4- 5.5kg springs in the rear

 

And then just work from there

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok dave for starters BW lsd's are fooking shit house in falcadoors, KAAZ 2 ways for them are nearly $1-2000 and i have seen a KAAZ do singles, i don't want that to happen and a spool will push the car rather than let it turn freely

 

I'm looking at using 4 - 6kg front springs and the same in the rear obviously leaning more to 5.5 - 6kg springs in the front and 4- 5.5kg springs in the rear

 

And then just work from there

 

Most likely because the diff was never run in and it had premature wear, most race cars LSD's are that tight that they might as well be a locker, the skyline used to axle hop driving out of the pit bay.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...