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  • This is one sweet engine mate :dance: wish i could get a real k twin cam :glare:   Here are some pics i found of the real K twin cam :lolcry:       Check them out for headers :blinks:

  • filfrederick
    filfrederick

    each piston would need different relief locations, because the bore spacing on the head is different to the block. also if i did it again i would weld the sides of the combustion chambers and re-shape

  • LittleRedSpirit
    LittleRedSpirit

    Sick find. I love Australia.  Shirtless guys in the dark with a torch working on one of a kind engineering projects in the backyard.  I feel pride.

Posted Images

How about bolting one onto a 5K?? You don't need the hydraulic lifters at all, its 1500cc already, the bottom has been shown to take massive revs if you want to and the machining of parts has been done once... Who's a good machinist?

  • Author

How about bolting one onto a 5K?? You don't need the hydraulic lifters at all, its 1500cc already, the bottom has been shown to take massive revs if you want to and the machining of parts has been done once... Who's a good machinist?

 

the engine has been much better than i expected, it has been super reliable and have not had any real issues with it.

development is still continuing currently upgrading to provide more power/driveability

- clutch as the standard one was slipping as soon as the motor came on to cam.

- carbs, swapping out the cv's for a set of 39mm keihin flat slides, should make a massive difference up top.

- cam drive, swapping from the square tooth belt to a round tooth so i am able to run 4age vernier pulleys to make tuneing easier

- gearbox, decided on sticking with the k50 but building a pneumatic actuation system to control gearchanges and clutch. so it will be able to do

flat up changes, not sure on the controller yet but will be paddles or a foreward/back leaver.

 

 

as for the 5k idea, it would make some things a little easier, but you would still have to use 4age pistons to get the compression ratio up and provide clearance for the valves. and then you still need to deck the block to make up for the difference in pin heights between 5k and 4a pistons.

you would probably want to run the late model pistons too as they have a higher piston crown, so then you will need to use 4a rods to convert from 18 to 20mm gudgeon pins.

i suppose you could use some aftermarket, high compression big port pistons to keep the 18mm pins and use 5k rods, but would be significantly weaker.

 

machining wise, i did all mine myself, i work at Mendham Engineering so we could do it all but its a lot of work and not cheap

 

hope that helps

Phil

  • 4 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • Author

Was it you behind me this afternoon in my Brown KE70?

 

Yeah that was me, i work just up the road.

your ke looked nice too.

  • 1 month later...

is there any chance of getting more photos of this build?

thanks

  • 4 weeks later...
  • Author

is there any chance of getting more photos of this build?

thanks

is there anything in particular you want to see?

Hats off to you sir...Thinking outside of the box and making it happen. That is a true testament to your engineering right there!

Look forward to seeing the video's and developments as they come - you you could have a businesscase on your hands if this sort of interest continues!

What. The ʞ©$ɟ did I just see.. I feel like I've been smacked in the face with a shovel. Can't believe I've never seen this before..

Craziness.

What. The ʞ©$ɟ did I just see.. I feel like I've been smacked in the face with a shovel. Can't believe I've never seen this before..

Craziness.

I m smacked every time i see this post,this is one smart engine guy.

 

This is art toyotaart hehe

Got any of the work you did to the head to make it fit?

another fan who felt the need to post, and /salute you

well done mate

  • Author

I was looking through my photos of when i built the engine, but unfortunately I did not take any of the head work. but i can tell you that it was actually quite easy to actually fairly easy to get the 4age head to bolt on, it was just a matter of using the 4k head as a jig and slotting the original head stud holes in the 4age head to suit the 4k block and as they were fairly close to begin with they only had to be moved a few mm.

 

The water galleries were not a problem and did not need to be changed but all the original oil drains and feed were not compatible so were blocked and converted to external.

 

in this pic you can see the brass fitting under the exhaust cam/ above the water pump that is the new oil feed to the camshafts.

post-11347-0-61865900-1342859437_thumb.jpg

 

 

here you can see the main oil drains for the head with the big red hoses attached, the lower right one is original 4age but because it is on the high side i machined a hole through the back of the head and made the alloy block with the fittings to bolt on for an extra drain and breather. there is another small drain under the distributor mostly to make sure no oil sits in the head

post-11347-0-64624000-1342859705_thumb.jpg

  • Author

Also found this video from up at lakeside, very poor quality but at least you get the noise!

Thanks for the great infomation, if you where to use the 4k piston size would the valves hit the bores?

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