Got this fitting in the mail, so I fitted the supply line to the radiator.

 

Also will probably not duct cold air from under the radiator, it looks like behind the right headlight is a perfect place to attach a big funnel type of thing to collect cold air. Ive got a nice clear shot at it too.

I templated the airbox with coreflute today. Its looking pretty cool I reckon. Have enough headroom for even the larger trumpets, and there is only a bit of a clearance required for the Brake Booster Vac Hose, as you can see. Its about 1cm from the firewall, and Ive cut and angle to the lid that will allow it to clear the bonnet better. I can accurately measure it, or give it to Dave to draw the cad file from, so we can have the base bit punched out of aluminium sheet. Ill have to add a coupl of vac ports there, one to feed idle control, and another couple of threaded bosses that will let me fit othe vaccum connections as required.

 

 

 

 

 

Looking through the headlight hole that will become the air feed.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Been getting my head around the ins and outs of the cooling system. I was worried to think the heater might have been full flow with no tap and also used as the warm up time bypass of the radiator, but having found a schematic on the interweb from toyota, it seems there is an internal bypass and I could theoretically just disconnect the heater all together if need be. I was beginning to get worried about the possibility of restricting its flow with Banjo fittings, but now I don't think it matters. You can see the engine has an internal bypass and a heater circuit. The diagram does confirm that the water flows through the heater with no restriction of a tap or any other device to select when the water enters the cabin. I find this interesting as I was reading somewhere that adr 27 meant that this was outlawed in the 1970s.

 

From the schematic it appears that the engine can circulate coolant just fine via the internal bypass with the heater blocked, restricted or disconnected alltogether.

 

The internal bypass seems to allow water to drop back through to the pump instead of leaving the engine to visit the radiator or heater. When the thermostat opens the path of least resistance will be the larger hoses and radiator. Seems to make sense to me however if anyone could clarify anything, or interprets this diagram differently I'm happy to debate.

 

if it's anything like the other engines I have seen the heater tap fully cuts the water flow off when the selector switch is on the cool setting. I very often see people bypass a heater circuit when not running one because they don't know that this is the oppersite of what they should do. This causes a radiator bypass and nothing else.

 

I had the exact same idea as you many years ago with the heater valve, I took out of of an EA ford or something like that that's pretty similar. I was going to use a T-piece between the one way valve and the brake booster chamber.

 

Those velocity stacks could use a parabolic shape added to them, hahahaha

I'm open to sponsorship from anyone who makes them...

 

:lol:

hahahaha! I guess I better go hide somewhere now!

 

Good work though, happy to see you're still at this.

hahahaha! I guess I better go hide somewhere now!

 

Good work though, happy to see you're still at this.

 

Seriously though, thanks for all your help along the way.

Seriously though, thanks for all your help along the way.

 

well I wouldn't of done so if I didn't think it was a worthwhile project, so you are welcome

Today I'm going to run the line for the air bleeder from radiator to the header tank, and maybe finish pulling out the brakes and send the booster out to get checked over and serviced if need be. I might even try and swap it for a ke55 booster while its out to get more clearance. Ill see what my mates at all clutch and brake Rocklea have to say about it.

 

The 'Engineering Department' is returning tomorrow. More car time to come this week.

Haha, and I can't freakin' wait to get out of this place.....

 

I'll get back to you about a day next week, I'll have to check the diary, she'll no doubt have some things planned for me for when I get back.

Fitted the hatch, just to see how accurate the glass work was. Not too bad overall. Unfirtunately the pins that hold the top of the gas strut have m8x1.25 thread on the steel hatch and m6 x 1 threads on the glass hatch, so I have to find some to adapt it with a finer thread. Hopefully not too hard. A keen eye will see I have swapped the tailights over. Thankfully the dude had a left one. He had it sitting out of the box, it has mud on it and a scratch but Ill just have to deal with it.

 

I have also done the bleeder line for the air coming out to the header tank. Its a 3/16ths bundy line that ends with a piece of 1/4 inch rubber hose so its not a rigid connection. In the second photo here you can see how the bundy tube bends out of the radiator and is concealed under the radiator top plate. Theres a couple of P clips there securing it. I was toying with the idea of putting the surge tank in horizontaly there to act as a catch can, but Ive decided its not needed as I will have the airbox to connect the idle control and top cover breather to.

 

I also checked the clearance on the airbox. It fits through the gap I cut n the Bonnet, which is great. I need to trim a bit more out at the rear of the box, but it will all cover with a fairly sensible scoop or bulge added. Its under 45mm through the top at its highest point. Makes me glad I didnt compromise any of the design for clearance.

 

I Also reworked the banjo on the clutch master as I found a flusher and more suitable fitting in the shed. I now have about 6mm from the box to the clutch master. Once I add a small spacer plate to the gearbox crossmember, I will be right where I want it to be. It will also aide my heater clearance. Sam if you read this, do you make those 10mm crossmember spacer5s for the 4 bolt w55 mount?

 

I tidied up the shape of the fuel filler area, and drilled out, retapped and bolted up the fuel door as the threads were shit that hold the door on. I need to remove quite a few corroded and snapped off bolts here and there. The two lower front wing bolts are snapped, as well as the one under the drivers door that holds the panel on. I might try heating them then drilling them out and easy outing them, its just ahrd cause they are only m6. I might end up going to M8 with those also.

 

Dash cluster turned up useless as it has thinners burns in the screen that I'm pretty upset about, plus the dude ʞ©$ɟed me around by not sending the fuse box and the headlight rubber when he sent the cluster. File under kids who get there money then do very little. Ive got another member with a cluster for me though, so Ill just have to buy that one and see.

 

I still need the bonnet release cable and I still need to go and see Jordan and grab a couple bits off the community halfcut so I have an ignition switch and barrel to test with.

Got a bunch more of the parts I need. I sourced a headlight rubber, a steering column and ignition switch, a front tie bar and half the rear lock plus a few smalls I needed. I have to say a big thanks to Josh for them.

I removed and painted the passenger seat rails, new column, dash under brace, fuel sender cover, bonnet post, rear tow hooks, and the gas struts that hold up the hatch.

 

Ive ordered the right ball studs for the gas struts, and I'm still working on the airbox idea. I might need to use a panel filter box from another car in its entireity to mount the filter properly.

 

Will go in tomorrow and put the dash together hopefully, heater boxes, vents, etc. I will also try and put the doors on if I have time. I also will mount he handbrake lever so I can put it on the hoist and suss out the cables. I will also remove the exhaust, paint it, and tidy up the under side at the same time. I have a couple more threads to fix and some rust to attend to.

 

Chipping away....

 

I need to fill this area also so air goes through the radiator and not around it.

 

Edited August 8, 201412 yr by LittleRedSpirit

Today I made a gearbox spacer from 10mm steel plate, removed and painted the pedals, wiper assembly and rusty old radio brackets for under the dash. I also removed the cut down steering column from the car in readiness to fit the new one. I found and washed the heater and blower boxes for under the dash and realised I need to find a non ac vent for in between them. I also noticed i don't have the little plastic tray under the handbrake. I found my good clutch master, stripped it and painted it mettallic silver with high temp paint. I soon will template for some reinforcing panels for the firewall. I will make them from thin steel, but Id like to reinforce where the clutch and brake pedals mount on the firewall I put the car on stands and fitted the gearbox spacer plate. I now have the gearbox at a nice tight 1/4 inch from the tunnel top.. Ill mark the spots where its closest and when the gearbox comes out Ill tap out the metal here and there so Its perfect. The new forward tilt on the motor actually helps with the cearances behind the head and with the front of the motor at the bonnet, It doesnt stick through much at all now with the bonnet installed. It also makes the engine pretty close to parallell with the ground.

 

It will have the axhaust removed and then painted next time I'm working on it. I have a bunch of hi temp silver paint. Keep it slver as much as possible.

 

Once I make the firewall reinforcing plates, and the booster is recoed, I can put the clutch, brakes, dash, steering and trim back in. I can bleed the clutch and brakes, Then comes seats. Doors. Fuel system, Tailshaft, ECU and then hopefully it will run. At which time it all comes apart again to be painted inside and out. Then back together for real with glass in, rego and drive it finally. I can see a little light at the end of the tunnel now.

 

The unknown quantities now are tuning and a map to run it. Also the handbrake cables. Nothing too scary.