LittleRedSpirit Posted December 31, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2012 be real careful about that pickup surface, its not something i would use a sander machine on. love your work all the same thinga are going well. Thanks. Can you explain why you say this? It needed facing after the welding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oh what a nissan feeling! Posted December 31, 2012 Report Share Posted December 31, 2012 The sander just doesnt provide the flat surface that you would think, try gently and precisely running a hand file over the surface and afterward look at what the file has actually touched, usually with the sander the surface will taper off toward the edges. It might be ok, but generally i've found its not real good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleRedSpirit Posted January 1, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 1, 2013 You realise I'm a cabinetmaker and I machine, sand and linish things flat all the time? I have a perfectly true steel backed disc wheel with a properly applied grit. I'm not too worried to be honest. Yes caution is required but Ive been linishing almost everything including my modified header flange and its all worked perfectly so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleRedSpirit Posted January 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2013 (edited) Just received the small undercar surge tank. Its about 1.2 litres I think. I might need to cut off the bottom barb and tap for the right size, but its easily done. Also got a pump bracket from the same seller. Looks to be some high quality welding. Edited January 2, 2013 by LittleRedSpirit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trev Posted January 2, 2013 Report Share Posted January 2, 2013 Keen to see how the fitting of the tank goes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleRedSpirit Posted January 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2013 (edited) Me too. I have options being that I have the after market cell. However I'm wondering whether its worth all the custom sheet metal to make that happen under the floor like I wanted, or if its worth just bunging a ke70 fuel tank into it (that I have on the shelf) and cramming this thing next to it. Edited January 2, 2013 by LittleRedSpirit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleRedSpirit Posted January 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2013 (edited) Smashed the F diff open today. Literally, haha. I fitted the baffles which just absolutely fit like a glove as per factory, even though the diff wasn't equipped with them originally. Thanks to Sam Q for supplying those. What a great resolution. :clover: It all went back together nicely. Sealed with Toyota black sealant. :paw: Very happy. :yes: Now the only issue will be handbrake cables, I hope, being drums, its as simple as using the ke70 cables. I also met Chris and Tony Scott today. It was good to finally put a face to a name after previous conversations I've had with Chris on the phone, and of course to meet the 2 guys responsible for what I think is the most epic car on Rollaclub, with the results to back it up. :drinks: Edited August 7, 2017 by LittleRedSpirit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rian Posted January 5, 2013 Report Share Posted January 5, 2013 (edited) Just received the small undercar surge tank. Its about 1.2 litres I think. I might need to cut off the bottom barb and tap for the right size, but its easily done. Also got a pump bracket from the same seller. Looks to be some high quality welding. I bought that exact same surge tank, it's a bit of a squeeze to fit it in next to the stock fuel tank (behind the panhard mount but in front of the fuel tank), I had to modify to mounting bracket on the surge tank and put a smallish dent into the stock fuel tank to make room for it. Other than that I was very happy with it :y: Edit: Just realised this is an AE86 not *E7* like mine, so what I said about fitting the surge tank might not apply. Edited January 5, 2013 by rian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleRedSpirit Posted January 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2013 It will be much the same, that said, I don't mind making small modifications. Cheers. :thumbsup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19914afc Posted January 5, 2013 Report Share Posted January 5, 2013 (edited) I cut out the floor in the T18 made a frame welded to rails to hold fuel cell under car and lift it half way through floor with the undercar surge tank. Put a new floor in cut hole for cell and boxed it up with a removable lid, can't just leave it open for CAMS events and well I wouldn't want to anyway, haha. Edited January 5, 2013 by 19914afc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
It's_AUDM_Yo Posted January 5, 2013 Report Share Posted January 5, 2013 I had the surge tank before Rian! ;P Its really good. I just cut one of the "tabs" off. This is the photo I showed him. I didn't have to dent my tank though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleRedSpirit Posted January 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2013 (edited) Insulated the surge tank with some medium density self adhesive sheet from Clark rubber. Should help deflect any debris and hopefully stop the swirl pot from absorbing any radiant heat. Also becomes less noticeable. I also did a bit of cleaning up on the edges of the fuel pump bracket and installed a splined stud for it so its easy to fit the pump with one tool. I rubber lined the base of it. My plan is to make a rubber lined plate to mount it all to from aluminium and fit it as a unit with pump and surge tank all together. Hopefully the multiple layers of rubber mounting keep the fuel pumps quiet. Edited August 7, 2017 by LittleRedSpirit dead photos Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleRedSpirit Posted January 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2013 (edited) Did some more on this now. I took the new motor to work today and modified it for rwd. I cut away the alloy for the starter. I also Modified the heater hose that protrudes backwards (shortened it to miss the firewall. I drilled and tapped the m12 hole in the rear of the motor that was just drilled and not tapped. I also modified the left engine mount to clear the dipstick, and rebent the dipstick tube into a more rwd friendly shape. I collected the gearbox from diff lapping and cleaned the outside of it a bit, then I refitted the bellhousing, torqued the bolts to 35NM and then put it aside. Tomorrow I can bolt the motor and box together and setup the flywheel and clutch system that Ive created, and do some final testing and checking of the clutch forks operation. Once I have motor and box united, Ill fiddle with the accessories till its ready to drop into the chassis and Ill have to put it aside till my coil overs come back and I can get it rolling and do some more work on it. I'm also wondering if I can easily delete the factory oil warmer/cooler arrangement. Edited August 7, 2017 by LittleRedSpirit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trev Posted January 14, 2013 Report Share Posted January 14, 2013 Looking fab Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleRedSpirit Posted January 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2013 Hopefully after today, I have the motor n box together and they wont need to come apart again, and the thing can be glad wrapped and put aside for later fitment when the shell gets finished. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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