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The Rwd 2Az-Fe Thread.


LittleRedSpirit

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Then I need to drop it into the ae86 complete chassis I have here and look at having my f series diff modified to fit into the chassis aswell

 

Can I ask if you know of any mob that does the alloy carriers at all? I heard someone does.

 

Also 7000rpm is a great peak rpm I know of Nissan engines making 243hp at 7200rpm, 30 miles to the gallon when driven with zest and only 8 valves heads, wet sumps, steel valves and rods and 82mm stroke. The 2AZ stroke is made for better peak hp at lower rpms and should be a delight to drive with that awesome midrange.

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The bloke welding the manifold reckons easy 200+hp with just the mods I have planned. As long as the power is around there somewhere but it leaps forward at any rpm when you give the gas.

 

Alloy carriers? I assume you mean alloy 3rd member carriers for the diff. I don't know of anywhere specifically, but there is a high end race engineering shop here at Kedron that does sheetmetal housings, and has their own ridiculoysly good systems for the rear end so you can adjust camber and toe on the live housing. They us a ball and socket system to drive the hubs, its amazing gear.

 

You can talk to them on 07 3861 4205. They do a lot of v8 super car stuff, I think 888 motor sport resells their axles to most v8 super car teams with compatible gear. They can build you the toughest of all live axle diffs for around 4 grand.

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Prefer the F type really, otherwise Id go straight to a Winters quickchange for 2 ratios street & strip.

There is definitely some serious stuff out there!

 

From the info you state, I reckon you will be getting over 200hp without a sweat.

Especially considering I know of a 40+ year old Datsun Fairlady with 8 valve U20

making 243hp at 7500 / 191 ft lb at 5500 using 48mm webers, wet sump, dizzie and

all internals are from the same era with no exotic materials.

Some interesting data for comparison (All 2 litre engines, 1 and 3 w/ 48mm webers)

 

Nissan L20B - 225hp @ 6500 rpm; 194ft lb @ 5250 rpm (built for torque - rally 1600)

Datsun U20 - 243 HP @ 7500 rpm; 191 ft lb @ 5500 rpm (big midrange - Fairlady)

Honda F20C - 240 HP @ 8,300 rpm; 153 ft lb @ 7,500 rpm (factory S2000)

 

Your rods and pistons will be lighter and the stroke is superior to the above

which should create very fast burn for lean mixtures suited for EFI.

Edited by diegoh
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Just got the manifold back, it has very little warpage. :laff: :rolls: I'm super happy with it, now I need to face and seat the tabs I had added for vacuum nipples and the booster port, and drill and tap their holes also. Welding looks good, there's a few minor pinholes but hard to avoid in alloy, but importantly, it seals air tight and the welds look hot. I'm gonna polish the whole thing once I face the throttle side lightly on a linisher. The engine side needs no linishing really, it has about a 20 thou twist that should seat itself when bolted down and the oring will seal a treat.

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Be a while yet I think. Just taking each step slowly and with lots of planning.

 

I'm very very pleased with this manifold. Its a fairly straight shot into the throttles, they point above the brake and clutch stuff, miss the fuel rail and allow ideal room for injector access. Also, it misses the VVTI solenoid handily, sticks out just far enough and looks hot like the rest of the alloy engine and head. The welding looks pretty nice, and you can see the little platforms I had fitted for the bungs to go to vacuum brake booster and the custom vacuum manifold I need for a map sensor.

 

I might initially just get it running with some stock trumpets and make a simple box. I really want it to be quiet and not sound like it has carbs or itbs for something different.

 

Enjoy the high res photos. and thanks to samq for the machining.

:laff:

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