diegoh Posted February 21, 2012 Report Share Posted February 21, 2012 Are you planning on using the GTIR throttle bodies? I can't remember that far back in the thread. If so are you considering taking them up to 48mm? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleRedSpirit Posted February 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2012 No using silvertop throttles. Not planning to bore them out at all. Just going to do some testing before I worry about that. As it is the throttle size suits the pipe size in the manifold perfectly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleRedSpirit Posted February 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2012 Dropped off the bits to Zenith engineering to have the oil pickup extension made. Going with Mild steel so it can bend like the sump if it gets a knock someday. Its a pretty simple mod, just need to make and bolt in a 90 degree bend as an extension to reposition the pickup screen in the lower left corner of the sump instead of up the front like it is stock. I need to weld a nut on the inside edge for the sump drain plug also, then thats all the sump mods I need. Looking to swap out my lower and harder engine mounts from the 20v ae71 and use them in this build. CBF paying close to $200 for a pair of new ones, so Ill use the Cuscos I have. This will aide bonnet clearance and tunnel/firewall corner clearance. It is a tall engine, and it is tall under the crank and tall in the head. All things considered it looks pretty natural in there. Kinda reminiscent of a K motor leaning over to the left, except with the inlet on the roomy side. Its kinda cool how the girth of the motor and manifold lines up with the deepest recess in the firewall almost uncannily. There is enough room, I'm sure Ill be able to run the coolant outlet behind the head and under the inlet manifold like you can on a 20v. Ill also be able to fit the heater connections in. That will be a novelty come winter. So once the oil pickup screen is extended, I can place the sump bung and at the same time Ill have my welder mate help me with making an idler/tensioner mount to sit where the PS used to. I should be able to make a fixed pulley fit there and tension it all with the stock tensioner arrangement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19914afc Posted February 24, 2012 Report Share Posted February 24, 2012 You should be able to use the auto tensioner just measure what size belt you have and the amount of ribs on the belt and that may still let you use it without modding anything, this is how I plan on doing it with the 1uz as it looks like it won't need any extra pulleys put on too :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleRedSpirit Posted February 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2012 The more I think about it, the more I think I'm going to ditch the hydraulic tensioner in favour of a threaded mechanical one. Then I can cut off the tensioning nut section (that lets you move the tensioner when its under tension) and swap the stock tensioner/idler pulley for one thats just as small a diameter, if not smaller and designed to hold the inside of the belt, instead of the outside. Then I can use stock alternator position, stock water pump position, and not need to make anything except a threaded tensioner shaft, and of course find the different pulley I need. Saves weight, makes it easier to achieve with no complicated fabrication/welding. Just some cutting and sourcing the right parts to lock a threaded adjuster. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam_Q Posted February 24, 2012 Report Share Posted February 24, 2012 what if an aluminium pulley was turned up to have bearings in it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleRedSpirit Posted February 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2012 I have actually solved the belt issue this afternoon, just as I described above. I cut off the nut for moving the tensioner, then I filed it neat. I then swapped from a back of belt pulley to a front of belt pulley that I had bought at repco for this mod about a year ago when I first thought about it. It fits, with a small spacer behind. I then wound some string around the pulleys to check the belt travel, and all is well, it tensions well, or will do once I remake the tensioner as a mechanical one, unless I can find a shorter hydraulic one that's just like the 2azfe but a bit shorter (any ideas, Toyota Techs?). So there we go, job is done. Its even an alloy pulley, just a black powdercoated one. Pics over the weekend. I can't believe how easy it was to sus it out. :dance: :dance: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleRedSpirit Posted February 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2012 Now turning attention to the airbox configuration. Might invest in something like this one, its made by reverie. A little expensive but design and size wise it would be ideal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleRedSpirit Posted March 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2012 Got a spare top cover to check overall height. Its a tall bitch. So have now ordered some Cusco -12mm engine mounts to slip in there. Will require a slight bulge in the bonnet once done, but I knew that all along. Much easier to mod a bonnet than a crossmember. Its as low vs far back as the shape of the engine allows, you could maybe get one more inch of rearward movement with a completely custom sump, but after that the limiting factor is the alloy lower crankcase, which is a bit harder to rework. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleRedSpirit Posted March 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2012 (edited) Just got the lowered harder engine rubbers. Need to ring and see if my pickup pipe is finished yet, be nice to finish all these small details over the weekend. Could hopefully have a cooling system, sump finished, pickup extended, and the mounts and belts sorted once and for all by the end of next week. Then I just need to sell enough crap to fund an ecu purchase. At this stage looking to get the basic select ecu from adaptronic. Might just buy a loom so that I can start to wire it. Thankfully adaptronic has wired and tuned a rav 4 2azfe for a customer a little while back, so I can get a base map easy and then self tune. Might never need the dyno for this one. If I want to find out how toyota tuned certain things I can plug in the ecu data scan and log what the atndard computer is doing. I love that feature. Edited March 7, 2012 by LittleRedSpirit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willis Posted March 7, 2012 Report Share Posted March 7, 2012 Awesome. Lots of work going into this. Keep at it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19914afc Posted March 7, 2012 Report Share Posted March 7, 2012 Really a rav? although there was one that came in apparently making 300kw with the v6 just with a tune and running on LPG! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oh what a nissan feeling! Posted March 7, 2012 Report Share Posted March 7, 2012 progress! nice work, imo good call with the bonnet vs crossmember thing, things are going well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleRedSpirit Posted March 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2012 Been organising more stuff. Ordered some 95mm velocity stacks today, and got in touch with Sam Q about baseplates. The trumpets are going straight to Sams to be fitted to base plates. Also ordered some wires for it. I ordered a loom to suit e420d/440 Adaptronic ECUs. Worked out that I need a 1 metre long belt for the 6 rib pulley system. Fitted the lower engine mounts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleRedSpirit Posted March 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2012 Made a start on the cooling system. Found a really tightly curved radiator hose that will let me fit the cooling pipes the way I want. I have also found a pipe that runs along the side of the motor and points out to the side a bit at the end. looks like it should work fine, I just need to find a short straight piece for behind the motor. I think an SR20 in fwd mode has the right pipe for behind the head. Will just add tabs to solid mount them. Need to get an s13 radiator. Anyone? Just need shitty one to test fit with. S13 SR type. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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