Jump to content

The Rwd 2Az-Fe Thread.


LittleRedSpirit

Recommended Posts

Members dont see this ad

Finished off the mounts and then put it all back together for a photo. Might curl the inlet down a tiny bit so it stays below the bonnet. It interferes with the bonnet, I kinda expected that. The stock sump works fine and is easy on and off while in the car. Sits about the right height, I'm seriously considering just using it and pointing the pickup at the low point, as well as adding a drain.

 

Next annoying thing is the serpentine belt arrangement as I am deleting a couple of things and may need to have a custom idler pulley. Or maybe modify the stock one to work with a threaded adjuster that wont interfere.

post-2885-0-51806300-1316083553_thumb.jpg

post-2885-0-17051000-1316083564_thumb.jpg

post-2885-0-13713000-1316083576_thumb.jpg

post-2885-0-20087400-1316083586_thumb.jpg

post-2885-0-09866500-1316083597_thumb.jpg

post-2885-0-66923900-1316083605_thumb.jpg

post-2885-0-13647500-1316083615_thumb.jpg

post-2885-0-96309000-1316083626_thumb.jpg

post-2885-0-73257800-1316083635_thumb.jpg

post-2885-0-17329200-1316083646_thumb.jpg

post-2885-0-99014100-1316083655_thumb.jpg

post-2885-0-90066700-1316083664_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Are you getting rid of PS and A/c? or just one or the other? if you get rid of both you could find an alternator with an adjuster with a thread and mount it where the A/C used to be. Would work good and have enough contact on all the pulleys.

 

Edit: or could put an alternator where the PS was, either way it looks like it would work alright.

Edited by 19914afc
Link to comment
Share on other sites

curious about the lean you've put on it..

is the sump level? or is there something i've missed about the mounting that makes it have to lean so far over.?

 

It leans because thats how the motor engages the bellhousing. Ive decided it helps with a number of clerance issues so its a win for me.

It shortens the height so minimal bonnet contact occurs. It also leans the inlet away from the brake booster and clutch master, and it also gives me all the starter clearance in the world. Ive looked at the pickup, I just need a 90 degree bend in a double flanged pipe to make it work fine.

 

 

and i do believe we need more pics of what you got done to mount the starter.

 

One day when I pull it all apart and make the sandwich plate I need.

 

 

Give me a yell if I could come over one day when your working on it to have a look, if it's alright.

 

For sure, I have the CD in the Rolla waiting for you to collect too.

 

Funnily, a sky fleet foreman came to look at it the other day when he came with Wade (kronix) to look at his car that's just been painted at my shop.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Are you getting rid of PS and A/c? or just one or the other? if you get rid of both you could find an alternator with an adjuster with a thread and mount it where the A/C used to be. Would work good and have enough contact on all the pulleys.

 

Edit: or could put an alternator where the PS was, either way it looks like it would work alright.

 

 

Yeah my 2 methods Ive come up with at first glance was to convert an alternator to a strap adjuster and make that fit and adjust the belt or to leave it where it is and make a tensioner for the belt. If you know of any other alternators that could be suitable with minimal ustom work I'm there, otherwise I will just rework what I have. I have a couple of old 4age threaded adjustable idlers from past 20vs and if I could fit them Id be fine. Might go to the wreckers and see what i can find today.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The motor leans toawrds the inlet side in a Camry, before I even considered the lean, I got some fresh oil and ran it through the head to see how it drains. keen players will notice that the oil can drain down the entire timing column aswell, so it wont get trapped in the head like the slightly inferior past oiling designs. If i was really worried there is an ideal oil drain spot at the rear left hand side of the head, but I don't think that needs doing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just found a source for the tube I need for the itb manifold. Silvertop throttles might work yet, I've just found tube that's 50 od and 3mm wall thickness, so 44mm id. thanks to J and J bullbars. This means its a tiny port match to a silvertop throttle, which can be done in the throttle mounting plate thickness, and a tiny port match at the flange plate to the tube. Its all starting to make sense now. Since I have all the room in the world, I will be spacing out the throttles and maybe getting Sams help to widen the linkages if you don't mind Sam. I might see if this bullbar guy who is selling me the tube will be able to weld it up for me aswell once I shape it all.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...