ʞ©$ɟ thats a sick KE70

Apparently it got parted out :(

 

Spring rate was pretty good, yours look aftermarket mine were the factory spring.

It seated fine and didn't fall out. Nor could you see they were cut .

I'm sure real springs are an upgrade haha

Theres a few different falcons to choose from too. and it depends how much you cut them.

 

I always had the non cut end on the diff, and the cut end on the chassis end, never had a drama:S

 

I also wire tied the springs to the diff, so if the springs became unloaded they woudlnt fall off!

Alright peeps, this car is becoming a little bit more serious. I'm keen to fiddle with the cars suspension and (try to) apply some physics to see if I can get it to handle well.

So here's some pics for now, I'm going to go outside soon and work on the car to get it roadworthy. All these parts will have to wait until after I get it registered.

 

Got all 16 of my wheel nuts now, I can't believe how light these are.

 

 

 

Also picked up the new 18mm Whiteline swaybar. This part is a bit of an experiment for me, I've never really put much thought into modifying suspension before but I'm interested in seeing what a larger swaybar will do to the handling. I also want to see if I can apply some of the things I've learned at uni to figure out what the swaybar is actually doing (ewww dynamics makes me cringe).

Got myself an adjustable panhard rod from Whiteline too.

 

 

 

And here's a pic of the 323 lip I bought off LittleRedSpirit. This lip is 30 years old and still brand new, was still in the plastic with the quality control slip and stickers when I got it haha!

 

 

 

And a little test fit, I've got a pair of quadlights and honeycomb grill to go on as well. The chrome bumper will be painted black, and it will probably look a bit better with the 15x7s on there. Don't forget this car is at standard height, it will be coming down a few inches when the coilovers go in, should look mean.

 

Edited June 20, 201313 yr by rian

Don't forget this car is at standard height, the lip will be a few inches of the ground, should look mean.

 

^Thats what you really meant.

 

I like the chrome bar painted black idea sounds good.

Edited June 20, 201313 yr by It's_AUDM_Yo

^Thats what you really meant.

 

I like the chrome bar painted black idea sounds good.

 

Pretty much what I meant haha, I will make sure it is at least 100mm off the ground.

 

Yeah I think the chrome bar will look much better in black, the cheap chrome has rusted through anyway. The front end will be black lip, black bumper, black grill and black headlight surrounds

 

 

In other news I've booked it in for Engineering on Tuesday next week, then I'll sort out a roadworthy after that.

 

I really need to fix the rust haha!

 

 

Also got my gauges wired up and mounted, the water temp gauge is working but I still need to fit the modified sandwich plate with the ports tapped for the oil temp and pressure sensors to get the oil gauges working. Though that can wait.

Getting this thing ready for a roadworthy certificate is a bitch.

 

One of the pins on the reverse light switch was broken, could have bought a new one from Toyota but they're like $100 from what I've heard (couldn't find an aftermarket one that would fit?):

 

 

 

Soldered a wire to where the pin was broken off, melted the insulation a bit. Tested it with a multimeter and it was working fine:

 

 

 

Ran new wires from the switch to where it meets the loom in the engine bay because it was an auto and it didn't have any:

 

 

 

Reverse lights still didn't work, found the problem:

 

 

 

Put in a new fuse and now the lights work!

 

 

 

Also fitted a charcoal canister but it's ugly as so I didn't take a picture.

Next is a backyard wheel alignment, and then to cut out all the rust... :n:

Edited June 23, 201313 yr by rian

 

This cost me $200 (including the call-out fee) and took 20 minutes of my time. I don't understand why people risk not having it done. I got the gearbox and engine modplated.

I should also add that Randall from modplates.com is a champ. Thanks to Leo, KE70Dave and Mark1414 for recommending him.

 

Now it's time to get it roadworthy, things that are on my list:

- fix rust

- replace heater tap valve (does anyone have a spare? They don't seem to be available new)

 

More pics of rust :(:

 

 

 

 

 

 

I've already started cutting it out/grinding it back. Just need to get some metal to fill the holes and then I can bog it up.

Edited June 25, 201313 yr by rian

 

This cost me $200 (including the call-out fee) and took 20 minutes of my time. I don't understand why people risk not having it done. I got the gearbox and engine modplated.

 

I wanna move to Qld!!!!

 

That's a MINIMUM $800 exercise in Mexico!!!

 

 

That's a MINIMUM $800 exercise in Mexico!!!

 

Why the hell did he quote me so much. Oh well.

Dunno, maybe he doesn't like Beerwah.

 

I hope I get this on the road for the 10 year cruise, so everyone can see how shit it is and how big of a waste of 5 grand and 16 months of my time it has been. That would be great ;)

I actually drove it the other day with 6 month old fuel, on standard suspension, the worlds worst backyard wheel alignment and a bent steering wheel (don't buy steering wheels off ebay). What a terrible experience that was, it felt like driving a soggy cardboard box with a wipper snipper motor. Everything was so sloppy and unresponsive, I need to put the coilovers and new wheels on asap. And put new fuel in it too, the fuel light has been on for over a year now...

Edited June 25, 201313 yr by rian

I'm awaiting an email for my new wheels. Be good to see this on the road.

^Keen

Rust can eat a bag of dicks.

 

 

But it's (mostly) done now, I've repaired as much as I could be bothered. If the remaining rust doesn't pass the roadworthy check then I'll fix that too, but for now I'm over it and just want to get it on the road.

 

From this:

 

 

To this:

 

 

 

To this:

 

 

 

I've spoken to the roadworthy guy and hopefully I'll get it booked in this coming week.

 

Also replaced the heater tap (thanks Thomas if you're on here) and fitted the Whiteline panhard rod while I waited for the body filler to dry. Not much left to do to get it roadworthy I don't think.

Edited July 6, 201313 yr by rian

Not much left to do to get it roadworthy I don't think.

 

They'll find something you never noticed.