carbonboy Posted May 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2014 (edited) Not quite up & running to full capacity just yet, as in, I'm not back competing in VMC events yet. Skipped Rounds 3 & 4 due to personal-life reasons & lacking time/efficiency. Hopefully back in Round 5. First fuel economy figures since getting BT running again are in, they are: 397.2kms traveled, 43.14L of fuel used. Works out to 9.21km/L or 10.86L/100km. Have done some more tweaking as well, was scared as $h1t of doing so, considering what happened last time I fiddled..... Needless to say the jets have been left the hell alone for now! :yes: The image below made things so much easier in regards to knowing what to change to make the air:fuel ratio leaner at different throttle positions. My idle was about 15.0:1, adjusted the pilot screws half a turn & it's now 18.0:1, half-throttle was 11.5:1, adjusted the needle heights down 1.0mm by changing the washers (these are standard needles I think & they don't have clips/positions for them, just washers) & it's now 14.0:1. Being able to log the A/F data after making changes (only change ONE thing at a time!!!) & compare it to the previous log means I can spend more time watching the road & less time watching the gauge. The bad news is that no matter the speed I'm travelling or gear I'm in, the tiny bit of throttle you use to maintain a steady speed is showing as rich as 10.8:1. Although through the changes I've made, the throttle range where that happens has gotten smaller. W.O.T is almost as bad, showing 11.2:1, going by the above picture, I have to change the jets. Which is exactly what I'm afraid of, I do have smaller Main jets but Pilot jets...no. The pilot screws are almost at the limit of their adjustment & the needles have 0.48mm washers currently, I can remove those & see how things go. I've also advanced the ignition timing 3 degrees when cranking, I've found with the slightly chilly mornings we're having down here in Convictoria this time of year, that has made starting SO much easier. Yes, all these things are a major downside of ditching the EFI, but, *meh*, I'm one of those people who needs to learn the hard way. :) Still need to get BT on a dyno. Edited May 22, 2014 by carbonboy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carbonboy Posted May 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2014 Minor update: Finally tracked down a persistent oil leak, I was thinking sump, but with the assistance of Bway & an ex-Toyota mechanic, we tracked it down to the front crankshaft oil seal. :( It's fair to say that it was a shipload of work for a $6.40 part, but so far, no drips. (except the one behind the wheel..*badoom tish*) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B.L.Z.BUB Posted May 22, 2014 Report Share Posted May 22, 2014 I still have one after I resealed the dizzy. Getting annoying. don't wanna have to do the front seals, AGAIN Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sznaps Posted May 22, 2014 Report Share Posted May 22, 2014 cmon guys look at the bright side of this - always good to have something to do on yourcar :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coln72 Posted May 23, 2014 Report Share Posted May 23, 2014 just carry around a can of degreaser. Instant leak fix :P used to do this to the club car to hid the fuel seeping from the accelerator pumps before scrutineering...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carbonboy Posted May 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2014 There appears to still be a leak.....a smaller one than before but still...fffffffffffffor crying out loud! cmon guys look at the bright side of this - always good to have something to do on your car :-) I just want it to be things I want to do, like velocity stacks, castor bushes, rear disc-brake conversion, haha! :) I'd rather just fix the leak, I don't like leaking fluids, automotive or bodily. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carbonboy Posted May 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 24, 2014 I don't care if I can only achieve this once, managed to bust under the 10L/100km mark, 9.93L/100km or 10.07km/L. Not sure if driving habits changed or due to switching from Shell Vortex to BP Ultimate, could be the fuel as it is running 0.5 leaner on the A/F gauge all through the rev range with no other changes made. *shrugs* Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azza91 Posted May 24, 2014 Report Share Posted May 24, 2014 good figures compared to last time man. I also got improved economy when switching from shell pulp to BP pulp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taz_Rx Posted May 26, 2014 Report Share Posted May 26, 2014 Could be worse... You could be paying $1.59 for 91! Think ultimate was Abbott $1.83 here last week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carbonboy Posted May 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 27, 2014 good figures compared to last time man. I also got improved economy when switching from shell pulp to BP pulp So much better, I'm no expert but for an NA 1.6L 4-cylinder engine to use that much fuel per 100km, something's not right! Mind you, I find myself thinking "Yeah, I'l shift at 4,000rpm.....next thing I know it's 6,000-ish rpm. :blush: It seems there might be thing with 4A-G's & BP PULP compared to Shells PULP, you're one of a few people to mention positive changes when they made the switch. I'm not trying to play scientist, most of the chemistry will go straight over my head. But if any other 4A-GE owners have any feedback regarding this, I'd be happy to hear it. Cooler air temperatures could also be helping my cause, once I can get the A/F ratios right, I might have a play with advancing the timing a few degrees higher up in the rev range, or maybe that should be something that should wait until on a dyno? :hmm: Could be worse... You could be paying $1.59 for 91! Think ultimate was Abbott $1.83 here last week. I keep forgetting how lucky we are up this way re: fuel prices, I think the most I've paid lately for 98 has been 181.9/L. Has it broken the $2.00/L barrier down your way at all? (Please excuse my ignorance) I'm not complaining about the fuel economy (nothing compared to that of a boosted engine of course), it's actually not that much higher than the 2A-C. Most likely because you had to rev the hell out of it just to avoid being a hazard to other motorists, let alone go up a hill without downshifting & burying the go pedal in the carpet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kickn5k Posted May 27, 2014 Report Share Posted May 27, 2014 That's pretty good for carbs mate. Old mate got 10ltr/100km in the datto on the trip to hanging rock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taz_Rx Posted May 27, 2014 Report Share Posted May 27, 2014 Nah never cracked $2...thank God. Although Tony and Co think its ok for us to pay more so we'll see what happens when that shit goes through the senate. I remember the good ol days when I used to pump fuel for mum, you could fill the falcon for $60-70. Was a big deal back in about '99 when it went over $1!.... man that makes me feel old. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coln72 Posted May 28, 2014 Report Share Posted May 28, 2014 I hear you. Remember that as well. My old twin carbed 5K would return around 9-10 L/100km Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azza91 Posted May 30, 2014 Report Share Posted May 30, 2014 I paid 178.9/l for pulp this week. so expensive Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B.L.Z.BUB Posted May 30, 2014 Report Share Posted May 30, 2014 I paid 178.9/l for pulp this week. so expensive My car isnt running, gas is cheap as :P Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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